Hi all,
I am in the process building HT with IB (infinite baffle) sub. The sub amp will be in the adjoining room with the sub manifold.
Sub amp will run on dedicated 20A circuit.
Pre-amp, LR power amp etc. runs on another 15A circuit.
Pre-amp is remote controlled and plugged into master plug of "smart" power bar. Turning on the preamp with remote, current flows through the Master plug and triggers slave plugs, which activates power for LR power amp, BD etc.
Now, I'd like to have the sub amp (on second smart power bar, separate 20A circuit) to power on when the pre-amp powers on.
Would anyone know of a simple way how to use 2 smart power bars (on 2 separate circuits), the 1st triggering the 2nd?
Many thanks!
I am in the process building HT with IB (infinite baffle) sub. The sub amp will be in the adjoining room with the sub manifold.
Sub amp will run on dedicated 20A circuit.
Pre-amp, LR power amp etc. runs on another 15A circuit.
Pre-amp is remote controlled and plugged into master plug of "smart" power bar. Turning on the preamp with remote, current flows through the Master plug and triggers slave plugs, which activates power for LR power amp, BD etc.
Now, I'd like to have the sub amp (on second smart power bar, separate 20A circuit) to power on when the pre-amp powers on.
Would anyone know of a simple way how to use 2 smart power bars (on 2 separate circuits), the 1st triggering the 2nd?
Many thanks!
Hi Lampie, yes, the one I am currently using is Tripp-Lite TLP808NETG.
Eco Surge 8 Outlet Surge Protector 8 ft Cord 2160 Joules Diagnostic LEDs (TLP808NETG) | Tripp Lite
For the second one, I can buy same or whatever else works (within reasonable budget)
Thanks!
Eco Surge 8 Outlet Surge Protector 8 ft Cord 2160 Joules Diagnostic LEDs (TLP808NETG) | Tripp Lite
For the second one, I can buy same or whatever else works (within reasonable budget)
Thanks!
Putting them in series would work, but you are specifying separate circuits.
If it's a true HT sub amp and not just a general power amp, it will have a low voltage trigger. If you can run a low voltage trigger between rooms that will work.
If it's a true HT sub amp and not just a general power amp, it will have a low voltage trigger. If you can run a low voltage trigger between rooms that will work.
Well, you need a wire between rooms in any case, so just daisy chaining the power bars is easiest.
You can probably rig up something with an isolation transformer so that turning on the preamp draws power from both "master" outlets on the power bars but still allows them to remain galvanically isolated.
Hardly seems worth it to me. I mean do you really think you need 35A worth of line for your HT rig?
You can probably rig up something with an isolation transformer so that turning on the preamp draws power from both "master" outlets on the power bars but still allows them to remain galvanically isolated.
Hardly seems worth it to me. I mean do you really think you need 35A worth of line for your HT rig?
Go to air-conditioning parts supply. You want a "compressor contactor" and a transformer to suit it (usually 24VAC; in your case, 120VAC primary). And a box!
Wire the contactor switch terminals to break power to the CA-4 or Bar 2.
Feed the 120 volt side of the transformer direct from a switched outlet on Bar 1. Use thermostat (telephone, cheap speaker) wire to bring the 24VAC over to the contactor Coil terminals.
Take both bars and transformer and contactor out in the driveway for initial smoke-test. Yes, it is possible to screw-up something this simple.
Wire the contactor switch terminals to break power to the CA-4 or Bar 2.
Feed the 120 volt side of the transformer direct from a switched outlet on Bar 1. Use thermostat (telephone, cheap speaker) wire to bring the 24VAC over to the contactor Coil terminals.
Take both bars and transformer and contactor out in the driveway for initial smoke-test. Yes, it is possible to screw-up something this simple.
Attachments
Last edited:
Thank you PRR. Would the "compressor contactor" work with inductive load of the transformer in the power supply of the subwoofer power amp? I know SSR have problems with inductive loads...
Well, you need a wire between rooms in any case, so just daisy chaining the power bars is easiest.
You can probably rig up something with an isolation transformer so that turning on the preamp draws power from both "master" outlets on the power bars but still allows them to remain galvanically isolated.
Hardly seems worth it to me. I mean do you really think you need 35A worth of line for your HT rig?
Thanks you Leadbelly, maybe 2 lines (20A and 15A) is overkill, but:
2 x Bryston 7B (800W+800W) power consumption maybe 2000W max = 16.6A
1 x Crest CA-4 800W power consumption maybe 1100W max
Projector, let's say 300W
various smaller things, AV receiver, CD, BD, amp for bass shakers, etc maybe 400W max = 15A
Obviously, this is MAX power consumption, not continuous, but I'd like to have some reserve.
- Home
- General Interest
- Everything Else
- 2 Smart power bars (master/slave how to)