so you are saying that the 2 ampsx4ohm vs 1x2ohm are equal? and the heat on the amps heatsink is not a noticable loss?
is my jbl amp a reputable quaility amp?
is my jbl amp a reputable quaility amp?
I would probably run the one amp, because it'd be much easier to damage something with two - you'd have to make sure they were matched exactly.
Those BP series amps did rated power reliably.
Those BP series amps did rated power reliably.
since i started this thread i have been looking around at amps and they ALL seem to just say...
X watts at 4 ohm and
X(2) watts at 2 ohm
my question then, is which ohm rating is most valid?
i don't really get confused by these although i see these amps all over the place i just dismiss them as a complete lie. where i get confused is a reputable amp manufacturer claiming 3000w at some completely ridiculous ohm load.
The Audio industry has standards. These standards are regulated by the FTC < the US government > When I was a Kid the audio makers of America banded together along with the IHF <Institute of High Fidelity > and lobbied the US government to regulate what a WATT was in audio. They passed regulation as to the correct value and measurement standards were and how they were to be interpreted. This was done to block the inrush of offshore built audio gear which was not built to any standards at all.
My parent bought me a little Juliette stereo system that had 300 watts IPP. In the real world it may of had 5 watts a channel.
So you see there are rules and regs, and there was good reasons for them back in the late 60's and 70's of the last century.
Now lets look at car audio which none of these laws apply to cause there was no car audio business back in 60's and very early 70's. And now we clearly see the troubles you are having dealing with car audio power ratings.
You see none of the current or past legal legislation concerning and governing commercial and pro audio apply to car audio at all... Not one piece of the law applies..car audio makers can say anything they want and they are not breaking any laws on the books....
Recently car audio banded together to alter how car audio spec's are measured and presented in print, and not one of their tests and measurements comes anywhere remotely close to the old IHF/FTC regs on the books. This is self regulation in operation.
I myself happened to like the older IHF/FTC regs as at least it was some form of a standard measurement for all gear to apply to, But remember car audio was not around back when this was put into law in the US and so therefore car audio has NEVER had to apply itself to any of the standards the rest of the industry has had to...
Some quality Car Audio makers did apply themselves to the standards, and by doing so they printed their spec's and power statements tailored in the language set down by the FTC and IHF long ago. Companies like Zapco, Phoenix Gold, SoundStream, and others listed their amps to IHF standards, and using the FTC protocols for printed specifications, and testing methods. I have not seen any of this since the 1990's myself hence the Term "old School " meaning so much and describing quality audio gear built to standards like other audio gear was supposed to measured by.
The current measurements and standards used by CAR audio while maybe being well founded have absolutely no legal reality in the USA. but you get to read all the glitzy numbers and hope you can make sense of a unregulated industry.
I am glad the electric power company does not charge me for electrical power also measured in Watts like the Car audio industry does currently. I feel that I to would be as bewildered and in the dark literally as you are currently about what a true RMS < Root Mean Square >Watt really is....Let alone how long it can be delivered reliably to your speakers before the amp shuts down or blows up...
Oh and the term quality has no standard meaning either so the days gone by of a "Quality" audio maker actually testing each piece of gear to spec's and burning the gear in for 24 to 40 hours of testing are also very long gone. Its just cheaper to replace your $660.00 retail piece of gear with a brand new $28.00 PC board and ship it back to you in a new box and many times in a new sink ( total cots of $38.00 ) so you think you got a brand new amp after the original one shot its guts out on main street...And these numbers are based on Rockford Fosgate's past profit and cost margins from about 2 years ago.
The site Amp-Guts was a great place to actually see what your money was buying. In real life you must carefully pick and chose what gear you decide to invest in. And it is a investment, and investments used to be measured by long term service life. With practically nothing being built inside the US of A I can only recommend that you shop very wisely and be very wary of any printed spec you see on any package, and ask yourself " What the heck do they really mean in a unregulated industry " ????
I have been in this Biz a long time and the above opinion is based on reality both past and present. If it offends anyone, well I completely understand how you feel. But I have little power myself to alter what the big boys do, and my interpretation of their actions is my opinion granted to me by the Bill of Rights.....Hey who turned out the lights ????🙄
For a common board, the best way to see what you're buying is to read reviews from forums. Especially for SPL-heads, if it's a common enough amp someone is bound to have put a clamp meter on it and determined whether or not the company is full of it when it comes to the ratings - overrated amps are quickly rooted out this way.
There are a number of amps out there that do rated power or more (sometimes much more)...
There are a number of amps out there that do rated power or more (sometimes much more)...
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