2* MTH-30 with The.Box 12-280-w

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MrOIL

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Joined 2017
#1
Hi there,
this is my first post here... (and I'm german, so excuse typos 😉)

I'm going to build 2slightly modified MTH-30's with The.Box 12-280-w drivers; everything is already ordered, but I still have one question/problem:
I don't have a controller and don't want to get one yet; Is there an easy way to make a passive HPF + LPF before the amp? Or should I go with HPF+LPF after the Amp?
I would need help with both! Can some one design them for me or link me to resources on how to design them myself?
HPF: 50 Hz LPF: 300Hz
Parametres of the Speaker and its response graph in Hornresp:
mth30-resp2youe.png


The Modification:
mth30tpqoy.png
Thanks in advance!
 
#3
The 12-280 W has a pretty short Xmax, so it would really need a decent high pass. Also are you sure that it will sound good up to 300 Hz? I mean it sims well enough but might start to sound bad above 120 - 150 Hz.

HP + LP after the amp is silly, if it needs to be ready Sunday, I would just buy an active crossover.
 
#4
Thanks for your answer!
It's a private party with a few friends, so I'd bite the bullet and go with 300Hz because the Top can only get to 260 Hz. If it sounds bad that's not that big of a deal (have 10"br just in case). I really cant afford a good Crossover right now and I don't want to waste the money on a cheap one, because I will scale the system up later on...
Would i need a low pass?
Before or after amp?
thanks
 
#6
What top do you have?

Any good filter after the amp (so called passive filter) will use components that become more expensive as frequency decreases and power handling increases. For your use it will cost more as a good active crossover.

For 60 - 70 euro you will have a cheap active crossover that will last you a couple of years (2-way or 3-way stereo). It will have a high pass and an adjustable low pass for both the sub and top.
 
#7
It's not my top and I only know that it's a single driver on a big horn that goes to 260 hz max (maybe 2" compression). The guy is on vacation right now and doesn't respond.
(sounds really dumb when I read it lol)
The modification is to create a little directivity (similar to Dalnley's BC 218). It would only play out in larger stacks like 4-8 (which i'm planing on doing as the Horns cost me 80€/piece total). (I have access to a lot of amping)

Could you link me a cheap one; I only find ones for 130€. Will go active as it makes more sense if it is only 70€ (thought that passive would be a much cheaper option).
Thanks!
 
#13
bitSmasher said:
Losing bracing and a panel... I don't understand the benefits. I bet tthe base/side opposite the driver will flap around when you give it decent power
Click to expand...
It wont be as stable anymore thats right.
I left the bracing out of simplicity; This was my first Build and as you can see this thing isn't build to last Touring conditions (Cheap wood; no bracing etc).
I will handle theese boxes not that often and with care. And if something breaks; The wood was 22€ total...
The cutout only starts making sense in bigger stacks (4+), which isn't unrealistic considering the cheap total price of 80€ per loaded cab.
It will shift the "Bass bubble" to the front to create something that could be called direction (alltough physically it isn't). It's basicaly free Something like this:
directivity0mu0t.png

Lambda Labs | professional acoustics(there is a video with polar's comparing this setup to cardiod and normal)
Also large stacks will eliminate the high power problem you were afraid of; more driverers = lower power per driver. (Wouldn't drive them past 175W anyways aue to their lack of high XMax)

But maybe youre right, which I don't hope 😉
Will learn a lesson; not an expensive one luckily.

Greetings!
 
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