Yeah, ebay prefer if you are german if you search for items in germany. On ebay.de you can search for a pair of jbl 2445 with this number. 221246207964
It ends in 5 h. JBL is great to start with. Risky though. They are vintage units.
It ends in 5 h. JBL is great to start with. Risky though. They are vintage units.
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These are with ti diaphragms but can be replaced with beryllium or radian diaphragms later.
Oh,you are on a tight budget. 300 is still a good price for two 2 inch JBL in Europe.
Oh,you are on a tight budget. 300 is still a good price for two 2 inch JBL in Europe.
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Search ebay.de for this number 111111460837. This is another good ti driver found at ebay.de. This one is newer, made in Spain. and it is used by EAW and Turbosound. All drivers from Beyma I have had were very well made. I just have an older version of this but without a membrane. Diaphragms are 150 pound so I will wait.
200 for a 650 euro driver....
200 for a 650 euro driver....
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A single diaphragm, 2" driver out past 15kHz? Unlikely. The TADs do it but I don't think the 4001 is that great, especially for the price. And with a 300Hz conical, your not going to get much below 600Hz, and that's as low as I'd take most large format drivers anyway.
Given that list, the 4590-8 which I have several years of personal experience with, not secondhand anecdote. The stock xover is merde, not worth the additional postage if it were free. They sounded best with a steep xover, LR8 at about 6k5 and a couple of other tweaks to get them flat. Start to sound noticeably worse under 600Hz.
So far it seems to come down to:
Radian 750 or 850pb.
Faital HF200
BMS 4591
Eighteensound HD2080T
Radian 750 or 850pb.
Faital HF200
BMS 4591
Eighteensound HD2080T
I have herd good things about these as well, i have a pair to try just no horns yet. There has been testing showing capabilites down to 350-400 hz range with the right horn. I know the specs only say 500hz, but that is with faital's own horn. Good luck with your search.
Thomann can get Radians:
299 Euro 760pb
389 Euro 850pb
579 Euro 950pb
Been looking for reviews of the 760pb /8, seem rather scarce.
@Rewind, any personal opinions?
299 Euro 760pb
389 Euro 850pb
579 Euro 950pb
Been looking for reviews of the 760pb /8, seem rather scarce.
@Rewind, any personal opinions?
be aware that sometimes they may not know the difference between a 2" voice coil and a 2" (exit) driver
I hope you know the difference, or else you may end being very disappointed
May I suggest not to be to focused on the Radian label.
If you can get Renkus Heinz or Emilar 2" exit drivers you get
equal performance to the Radians as these are all
designed by Jonas Renkus and differ only in areas that
do not alter the sonics to the point where anyone could
tell them apart.
I discarded 2" exit drivers for domestic use altogether.
A good 1" driver like Radian, Emilar, Renkus Heinz ect.
on a Seos 12" horn is pure bliss. Goes from 1khz to 18khz and
the top octave even sounds better than a really good bullet tweeter
because there is no integration problem.
Klaus
If you can get Renkus Heinz or Emilar 2" exit drivers you get
equal performance to the Radians as these are all
designed by Jonas Renkus and differ only in areas that
do not alter the sonics to the point where anyone could
tell them apart.
I discarded 2" exit drivers for domestic use altogether.
A good 1" driver like Radian, Emilar, Renkus Heinz ect.
on a Seos 12" horn is pure bliss. Goes from 1khz to 18khz and
the top octave even sounds better than a really good bullet tweeter
because there is no integration problem.
Klaus
Thanks, I will scour the net looking for some.
Seos...he one horn I cannot turn. have you heard OSWG waveguides? It was next on my list to try and make.
Seos...he one horn I cannot turn. have you heard OSWG waveguides? It was next on my list to try and make.
I think OSWG should be mighty fine. A conical profile between the OS sections seems to be typical and you should then get ~constant-directivity, along with the need to apply required equalization above driver mass roll-off.
I just got myself a pair of Emilar EC-175 drivers for pretty cheap. In fact, much cheaper than just one replacement diaphragm from Radian, two of which I'm getting also. A quick check seemed to indicate they'll do well on the QSC waveguide I'm presently using BMS 4550 onto, a very delightful driver IMO. I'd have gotten 475PB had I not swung BMS' way. I also use the smaller 4540ND and had sworn I'd go Radian on my next purchase, which I sort of did with the Emilars. 🙂
One thing to note about the Emilar/Renkus drivers; while Radian makes replacement diaphragms for most if not all Emilar drivers, I think there might be none out there for the RH units, save for Chinese copies, dubious at best, so caveat emptor. One experienced user let me know the RH 1800 and 1801 drivers are quite though OTOH, having survived years of PA abuse and still being fit for hi-fi. The mylar suspension might be to thank in this case. One of my EC-175 had the centering ring unglued and I have not means to glue it back on with the required precision, though I still did my best, so I'm getting new Radian diaphragms. The RH drivers used a different centering system and might not suffer the way my Emilar did.
On a somewhat related note, Radian, would you know what the exit angle is on the EC-175 driver? I don't want to either remove phase plug or protective mesh to measure myself. I estimate it can't be more than ~20° if I set maximum boundaries to calculate throat geometry.
IG
I just got myself a pair of Emilar EC-175 drivers for pretty cheap. In fact, much cheaper than just one replacement diaphragm from Radian, two of which I'm getting also. A quick check seemed to indicate they'll do well on the QSC waveguide I'm presently using BMS 4550 onto, a very delightful driver IMO. I'd have gotten 475PB had I not swung BMS' way. I also use the smaller 4540ND and had sworn I'd go Radian on my next purchase, which I sort of did with the Emilars. 🙂
One thing to note about the Emilar/Renkus drivers; while Radian makes replacement diaphragms for most if not all Emilar drivers, I think there might be none out there for the RH units, save for Chinese copies, dubious at best, so caveat emptor. One experienced user let me know the RH 1800 and 1801 drivers are quite though OTOH, having survived years of PA abuse and still being fit for hi-fi. The mylar suspension might be to thank in this case. One of my EC-175 had the centering ring unglued and I have not means to glue it back on with the required precision, though I still did my best, so I'm getting new Radian diaphragms. The RH drivers used a different centering system and might not suffer the way my Emilar did.
On a somewhat related note, Radian, would you know what the exit angle is on the EC-175 driver? I don't want to either remove phase plug or protective mesh to measure myself. I estimate it can't be more than ~20° if I set maximum boundaries to calculate throat geometry.
IG
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I got Emilar EC175M, Renkus Heinz 1800 and the Radian 1" exit drivers. Purchased the Emilar for $65 a piece at -bay and the R&H for $80 the pair. Funny one of my Emiar drivers had the center ring also loose. It is not so hard to fix. Find paper with the right thickness that you can rap around the Voice Coil so that it fits snug in the Air Gap. Then put the aluminum centering ring with evenly applied clue on the surround, but be careful that there is no spill over. Now just screw the back-cover back on and wait till the glue has bonded. Take the diaphragm out and remove paper. When you put it back in the diaphragm is centered like it suppose to.
@Studio AU The Seos 12" is so cheap that there is no point in trying anything DIY. Erich sells it for 28 Bucks a piece.
.
@Studio AU The Seos 12" is so cheap that there is no point in trying anything DIY. Erich sells it for 28 Bucks a piece.
.
Got the pair of EC-175 for 75$, not bad for a driver that is touted to be a notch over Altec 802.
Clever trick to fix the loose ring, I'll have to try it and keep the old diaphragms as backup. Actually, the mylar that comprises the suspension also seems to extend under that ring, and a fair bit of that was torn, though not at the suspended part of the suspension, so I'm not to certain how the best case scenario can turn out, but it's worth trying! I'll probably try a non-blooming cyanoacrylate or something else that is not too viscous or runs thick as to not affect the diaphragm-to-phaseplug gap and avoid run-off.
IG
Clever trick to fix the loose ring, I'll have to try it and keep the old diaphragms as backup. Actually, the mylar that comprises the suspension also seems to extend under that ring, and a fair bit of that was torn, though not at the suspended part of the suspension, so I'm not to certain how the best case scenario can turn out, but it's worth trying! I'll probably try a non-blooming cyanoacrylate or something else that is not too viscous or runs thick as to not affect the diaphragm-to-phaseplug gap and avoid run-off.
IG
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