the xover will be made after mounted driver masurements.. my advice request is for fit right driver.. if you think 29mm can be better solution i can evaluate it.
choice of the tweeter will be a question of taste imo in your good list. But I am really not sure about the efficienty you need.
Imho, just a quick look you should be in the woofer usuable bandwidth nearer to 89 dB/2.83V if I look at that : http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...s-sb16pfc25-8-mid-woofer-6-8-ohm-80-wmax.html (not saying measures are perhaps made on a big IEC baffle, so less than 89 dB in real life on your baffle)
I added + 3dB because you double the driver surface but with - 3dB of baffle step which is an average value, you land with around 89 dB at the baffle step transition... more or less according the width of your baffle.
If I am correct - but ask more experienced people here- it means the choice of the tweeter is extensed at 89 dB/2.83 V, and here some reference are appeling to add to your list :
SB26ADC/CDC or Wavecor (more expensive but very low disto) TW022A9 or A10 for a 2000 Hz cut-off for instance ; also the Peereless Dx25TG ; and imo the cheap and excellent DX20BF00-04 migth be an ideal blend for those cheap but good drivers. Put the difference in better caps and resistors if passive filter (Clarity CSA to stay in the good but not too expensive)
But that's really just my two cents to add to your water ; just figure out that baffle step thing before to make your choice imho.
Imho, just a quick look you should be in the woofer usuable bandwidth nearer to 89 dB/2.83V if I look at that : http://dibirama.altervista.org/home...s-sb16pfc25-8-mid-woofer-6-8-ohm-80-wmax.html (not saying measures are perhaps made on a big IEC baffle, so less than 89 dB in real life on your baffle)
I added + 3dB because you double the driver surface but with - 3dB of baffle step which is an average value, you land with around 89 dB at the baffle step transition... more or less according the width of your baffle.
If I am correct - but ask more experienced people here- it means the choice of the tweeter is extensed at 89 dB/2.83 V, and here some reference are appeling to add to your list :
SB26ADC/CDC or Wavecor (more expensive but very low disto) TW022A9 or A10 for a 2000 Hz cut-off for instance ; also the Peereless Dx25TG ; and imo the cheap and excellent DX20BF00-04 migth be an ideal blend for those cheap but good drivers. Put the difference in better caps and resistors if passive filter (Clarity CSA to stay in the good but not too expensive)
But that's really just my two cents to add to your water ; just figure out that baffle step thing before to make your choice imho.
Yes, +6db.my vituixcad give me +6db for midwoofer parallel 2x8ohm? +3db electrical +3db radiant surface.
And then full baffle Step loss is -6db, although depending on the woofer placement and the room you may only need 3db to 5db compensation.
Spec sheet says the driver is 87db but diyiggy's post looks more like 89db. So in the end you MIGHT be able to get by with an 87 db tweeter but could also end up needing as high as 91/92db. You could get the woofers and build a prototype box and know for sure and then select the tweeter.
stupid me, yes +6 dB sensivity I mixed up with + 3dB efficienty ! +6dB spl, ok 🙂
Imho Dibirama measurement are IEC baffle, so 89 dB for one driver in optimistic... it is less on a 20 cm width front baffle. And has the driver natural drop below 200/300 hz where the energy of music (snap/prat) is important (80-200 hz), your 87 dB after EQ should me more accurate... but dunno (rooms decides below Schroeder frequency and you may place the speakers near the wall maybe) !
Imho Dibirama measurement are IEC baffle, so 89 dB for one driver in optimistic... it is less on a 20 cm width front baffle. And has the driver natural drop below 200/300 hz where the energy of music (snap/prat) is important (80-200 hz), your 87 dB after EQ should me more accurate... but dunno (rooms decides below Schroeder frequency and you may place the speakers near the wall maybe) !
small o.t. about measurements speaker.... please.
using calibrate microphone its enough to setup amplifier output at 2.83v on a dummy 8ohm resistor with pink noise and read it at 1meter distance?
or simply use a pink noise with uncalib rate value to compare outputs of drivers and match differences? in that case output db will not a relevant value due to uncalibrated power ...
using calibrate microphone its enough to setup amplifier output at 2.83v on a dummy 8ohm resistor with pink noise and read it at 1meter distance?
or simply use a pink noise with uncalib rate value to compare outputs of drivers and match differences? in that case output db will not a relevant value due to uncalibrated power ...
The SB29RDNC I have don't really like anything below 3kHz as the distortions climb much faster comparing to regular version of the SB ring dome. Also the fs is in 800Hz zone for one unit and close to 900Hz for the other. To me they sound kind of boring - I like the warmth but the details sound as if covered by layer of thick fog.
I think '83300 Scan is a much better choice 29RDNC, especially in the waveguide you mentioned. What SB, Scan should do, is to introduce affordable tweeter in large size wg. 170mm plastic wg, similar to the one used with Satori beryllium tw, suitable for 2way/2kHz crossover, but in $100-150 price range would make a lot of people quite happy. I looked at Erin's review of 3way active monitor https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/mesanovic_cdm65/
It seems they use SB26ADC in their own waveguide - I really wouldn't mind something in this format.
It seems they use SB26ADC in their own waveguide - I really wouldn't mind something in this format.
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