No room on the sides. I'd love to throw some 12s at it, and might build an enclosure that is proper for a bass car in the future, but for now the wife needs a daily and I need respectable quality. Not ideal, but practical at least.
The JL audio is amazing, but expensive. Those peerless drivers are like 60 a pop and super low profile, moreso than the JL audio even. However, out of stock. We'll see if they come back this year if I can even go that route.
The JL audio is amazing, but expensive. Those peerless drivers are like 60 a pop and super low profile, moreso than the JL audio even. However, out of stock. We'll see if they come back this year if I can even go that route.
Peerless has seemed less interested in DIY the past few years. Many of their drivers are hard to get now unless you want 500 pieces. Some of their units are stocked, but I wouldn't rely on that being the case going forward, because it's all unpredictable. If the ones you want aren't in stock anywhere, I'd be inclined to look for another driver. Or at least e-mail Parts Express and see if they can give you an in-stock estimate. Their listings often include that, so when they don't, I get suspicious.
There are other flat/low profile/shallow options around. I haven't run any sims on these, it's just a starter list of shallow woofers. I'm sure there are more out there:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/MB-QUART-Discus-Series-8-in-400-Watt-Shallow-Subwoofer-DS1-204/313131907
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-A2000LD2-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B0811X5S9J?gQT=1&th=1
www.parts-express.com/GRS-6LPSW-4-6-1-2-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-292-461?quantity=1
www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LW150-4-6-Low-Profile-Woofer-4-Ohms-295-255?quantity=1
www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W6-2253S-6-1-2-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-264-937?quantity=1
www.parts-express.com/Wavecor-SW280WA01-11-Shallow-Glass-Fiber-PMI-Foam-Sandwich-Cone-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-298-1078?quantity=1
Deeper than you want, but not by much:
www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LS10-44-10-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-Dual-4-Ohm-295-251?quantity=1
AudioControl Space Series
https://audiocontrol.com/car-audio/subwoofers/spc-10s4/
https://audiocontrol.com/car-audio/subwoofers/spc-12s4/
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Space-Low-Profile-Subwoofer-Black/dp/B0C6V8X5Y9
https://ds18.com/products/ds18-psw10-4s-10-water-resistant-shallow-subwoofer-500-watts-4-ohm-svc
Not DIY, but another approach: line your whole floor with these? No idea how good they are, but quantity might make up for quality, and the price is amusing. There are quite a few shallow amplified subs on the market now at various price points.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-SS10P-Under-Seat-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0BTZ35DKY
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Oof ya. I see digikey and parts express out of stock. Digikey says min order qty 4x, which is perfect for me because thats how many I need for my build. Even if I had to buy 12, they are reasonably priced and I'd build a home system with the rest. Any more than that, too excessive. End up in jl audio 13.5 territory. That depth just kills me, these drivers just work so perfectly for what I'm trying to do.
I have Rockville 10 and 2 7s in my truck. They overstate how good they are haha. They are barely audible at 40hz. Trying to steer clear from the faked China builds, use more reputable companies than the knockoff brands using bad amps and poorly designed woofers. It would also be my first sub box and a fun project for me.
2 in the trunk ported low, then another box mounted behind the seat. Ive modeled it with 4 dayton puck tactile transducers. The theory is the sub will be able to handle the 50-100 range and add good shake to the seat (how I do it in my truck) and the pucks will be able to carry the feel of bass down to 20hz and compliment the trunk subwoofer sound. Making it feel like there is more sub than there is. Also have the option to give directional bass feel, left to right, front to back (top to bottom) can be on separate channels allowing songs that have sweeping bass like psytrance to give you a unique listening experience.
Do you have the ss10p?
4.4 out of 5 for 511 reviews ain't bad.
Most of the reviews I read said they are surprised by the output. If 1 is decent, than 6 should be good.
Seems like it has a "SHELF LIFE" of around 6 months.
They aren't bad for the money. 6x would be very loud but super peaky around 60-70hz. Then fall off a cliff at 40. Not even audible below 30. My goal here is cleaner bass. I know I know, tall ask from such a small enclosure height, but able to get reasonably loud at 20hz with this box build. In the future I can get a proper equilizer and tie it in if I want to tone down the 50hz response and flatten it. But for a first stage setup, this should be pretty functional and fun and not obstruct my trunk, while still playing low. Low is key. My truck is peaky enough, I dont want my wife's car to be the same. I want those low notes to shine. The little 8s alone get around 95db cranked to the max with the 2, 68s would be way too much for regular listening and no low end. More sq than spl build.
I would put this high up the priority list. EQ is basically mandatory in car audio if you have high standards. As long as you have enough displacement/volume capability, you can correct most everything else in the bass range with EQ. Then there's no need to get the native frequency response to your preferred curve (which is nearly impossible). You'll spend far more time (and possibly money) trying to go that route than you would just buying a decent DSP.
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Ya. First stage of the build is budgetary. The lx1300.7 is perfect for powering all of my speakers and 4 of these peerless gbs drivers (if they ever go back in stock). They have a simple dsp with crossovers, but no eq. To get the eq I saw a 10channel by audio control that would be able to cover all of the speakers, there is another 8 channel one by alpine. However, if I use dayton audio pucks on the seat subwoofer boxes to add low end rumble to the seat, which I'd love to try, I'd need another amp.
I can fit the lx1300.7 under the driver seat and put the tactile transducer amp with built in 4 channel dsp and my fusebox under the passenger. Or, I can fit a large equilizer. The cost is very high for the first stage of the build, so could come back and add pucks and second amp or equilizer. Can't do both YET, but might be able to find space pending my needs. The pucks and second amp might be enough to lift the low end experience high enough where an eq beyond crossovers isn't worth the money and space. For now.
Current time table for the first stage, speaker and subs and sound treating the car and electrical upgrades, end of year or early to mid next year. Bills, amirite?
Then can save up another half year to a year for the dsp components and/or puck components.
Adding the pucks with amp is around $500, adding the eq is about $1200. If I need to fabricate a new location for the dsp behind a panel somewhere (which I'll be able to see after taking the car apart to sound treat) then I can do it then. Might be some hidden pockets just the right size.
But I'm new to all the eq stuff. My experience is limited to sound treating, adding amps, adding speakers, and tossing in some prefab subwoofers.
If you have any advice on hardware that works well or placement (like do equalizers get hot compared to amps? Maybe I can mount that somewhere enclosed behind a body panel if I find some space?) I'm here to learn and report my progress for others who want to do similarly silly builds.
I can fit the lx1300.7 under the driver seat and put the tactile transducer amp with built in 4 channel dsp and my fusebox under the passenger. Or, I can fit a large equilizer. The cost is very high for the first stage of the build, so could come back and add pucks and second amp or equilizer. Can't do both YET, but might be able to find space pending my needs. The pucks and second amp might be enough to lift the low end experience high enough where an eq beyond crossovers isn't worth the money and space. For now.
Current time table for the first stage, speaker and subs and sound treating the car and electrical upgrades, end of year or early to mid next year. Bills, amirite?
Then can save up another half year to a year for the dsp components and/or puck components.
Adding the pucks with amp is around $500, adding the eq is about $1200. If I need to fabricate a new location for the dsp behind a panel somewhere (which I'll be able to see after taking the car apart to sound treat) then I can do it then. Might be some hidden pockets just the right size.
But I'm new to all the eq stuff. My experience is limited to sound treating, adding amps, adding speakers, and tossing in some prefab subwoofers.
If you have any advice on hardware that works well or placement (like do equalizers get hot compared to amps? Maybe I can mount that somewhere enclosed behind a body panel if I find some space?) I'm here to learn and report my progress for others who want to do similarly silly builds.
I don't have much experience with current car DSPs.
Rockford's DSR1 is one I'd probably stay away from, unless they've done a lot of software updates recently. A friend had one a few years ago: it was flaky and the interface was not that intuitive. He replaced it with one of the Alpine amp/DSP combos and was happier with that.
miniDSP is pretty popular in general, but their car-specific model is more than some of the other options or an old-school analog EQ. The miniDSP is an all-in-one crossover/parametric equalizer/time delay/preamp though, so it's doing more. An analog EQ is simpler to use though.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-8x12
Heat generation on DSP only models is relatively low. It's more like a small computer than an amplifier. I generally wouldn't put one in a small, sealed space, but otherwise you can typically put them wherever you want. Analog EQ's generate even less heat.
Rockford's DSR1 is one I'd probably stay away from, unless they've done a lot of software updates recently. A friend had one a few years ago: it was flaky and the interface was not that intuitive. He replaced it with one of the Alpine amp/DSP combos and was happier with that.
miniDSP is pretty popular in general, but their car-specific model is more than some of the other options or an old-school analog EQ. The miniDSP is an all-in-one crossover/parametric equalizer/time delay/preamp though, so it's doing more. An analog EQ is simpler to use though.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-8x12
Heat generation on DSP only models is relatively low. It's more like a small computer than an amplifier. I generally wouldn't put one in a small, sealed space, but otherwise you can typically put them wherever you want. Analog EQ's generate even less heat.
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Unfortunately my system is 7 channel, just 1 shy for the subwoofer, or I'd have to leave off say the dash speakers.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161DM810/AudioControl-DM-810-Digital-Signal-Processor.html has more than enough channels
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_408DSP48BT/DS18-DSP4-8BTM.html?tp=61658
Also works, but it would need an LOC as well, which just increases the complexity of fitting everything under the seat as opposed to 1 unit. Only 15x10 really underneath the seat mounts max, easier if it is less. 13in clearance to fit straight in.
I am debating the relayed fusebox location. I have room next to my battery, but the box I got isn't waterproof so would prefer to have it in the vehicle. To power little things like interior accent lighting, underglow, dsps, etc. I was going to have it under the passenger seat as the lx1300.7 takes up pretty much the entire driver side unless I got cheeky with it. Which I might. But under the passenger next to a small amp with the pucks makes more sense.
The rear Hatchback section has some pretty hollow sounding panels, I might get lucky and find space behind them for a dsp since they aren't too thick. But I have yet to confirm that until I'm ready to rip it apart and sound treat. Would be pretty long rca cables then, I don't know if that would pose a problem.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161DM810/AudioControl-DM-810-Digital-Signal-Processor.html has more than enough channels
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_408DSP48BT/DS18-DSP4-8BTM.html?tp=61658
Also works, but it would need an LOC as well, which just increases the complexity of fitting everything under the seat as opposed to 1 unit. Only 15x10 really underneath the seat mounts max, easier if it is less. 13in clearance to fit straight in.
I am debating the relayed fusebox location. I have room next to my battery, but the box I got isn't waterproof so would prefer to have it in the vehicle. To power little things like interior accent lighting, underglow, dsps, etc. I was going to have it under the passenger seat as the lx1300.7 takes up pretty much the entire driver side unless I got cheeky with it. Which I might. But under the passenger next to a small amp with the pucks makes more sense.
The rear Hatchback section has some pretty hollow sounding panels, I might get lucky and find space behind them for a dsp since they aren't too thick. But I have yet to confirm that until I'm ready to rip it apart and sound treat. Would be pretty long rca cables then, I don't know if that would pose a problem.
Then again, and lc7i plus the small ds18 dsp seem pretty small, might fit nicely back there. I'll mock up a plate fixture for under the seat and see how well everything nests in CAD. Might have room if I did something like that.
As long as the cables are decent quality, they're run intelligently, and the head unit has good output levels, should not be a problem. Rear-mounted amps and DSP are common in larger systems.