Hello everyone,
I have a Polk Audio PSW350 subwoofer, which I recently sent in to Polk Audio to have it diagnosed for repair. They said that the entire back plate needs to be replaced and quoted me a price of $140 for the part, which I declined for the time being.
So, I started searching around on the internet and found some products like the Dayton SA100. Subsequent searching led me to discover some of the DIY kits that consist of just the circuit boards and power amps.
And, now I'm completely in over my head! 🙂
I'm hoping that someone here on this forum can give me some guidance. I'm not afraid of DIY projects - in fact I love them. I can do my owner soldering and things like that, so I think if I just knew which parts to get I could do the work myself, and save some cash!
Thanks, for your help.
I have a Polk Audio PSW350 subwoofer, which I recently sent in to Polk Audio to have it diagnosed for repair. They said that the entire back plate needs to be replaced and quoted me a price of $140 for the part, which I declined for the time being.
So, I started searching around on the internet and found some products like the Dayton SA100. Subsequent searching led me to discover some of the DIY kits that consist of just the circuit boards and power amps.
And, now I'm completely in over my head! 🙂
I'm hoping that someone here on this forum can give me some guidance. I'm not afraid of DIY projects - in fact I love them. I can do my owner soldering and things like that, so I think if I just knew which parts to get I could do the work myself, and save some cash!
Thanks, for your help.
can you tell us some about power supply available, power output wanted, tiubes or solid state?, with this data will easiest answer your query.
Osvaldo,
Below you'll find the stock specs for the unit. I think I'd like to match them as closely as possible. Not sure about the power supply. I live in the USA, so it's obviously 120 volt, but I don't know about it's output. I'm assuming the stock unit is solid state, so I would stick with that.
PSW350 - Subwoofers | Polk Audio
Driver Complement:
1 - 10" (254mm) woofer
Amplifier Power*:
FTC Rated Amplifier Power:
100 watts continuous into 4ohms @ .05% 30 - 200Hz
Dynamic Power:
260 watts
Calculated Maximum Output (in-room):
110dB
Enclosure Type:
direct radiating, vented
Port Type:
dual, rear firing
Overall Frequency Response:
25Hz - 180Hz
-3dB Limits:
38Hz - 160Hz
Crossover Frequency:
adjustable 60Hz - 160Hz
Phase Control:
switch 0º or 180º
Inputs:
speaker, LFE and line level
Outputs:
speaker level
Dimensions:
(includes binding posts & heat sinks)
15"H x 13 1/2"W x 18 1/2"D
381mmH x 342.9mmW x 469.9mmD
Below you'll find the stock specs for the unit. I think I'd like to match them as closely as possible. Not sure about the power supply. I live in the USA, so it's obviously 120 volt, but I don't know about it's output. I'm assuming the stock unit is solid state, so I would stick with that.
PSW350 - Subwoofers | Polk Audio
Driver Complement:
1 - 10" (254mm) woofer
Amplifier Power*:
FTC Rated Amplifier Power:
100 watts continuous into 4ohms @ .05% 30 - 200Hz
Dynamic Power:
260 watts
Calculated Maximum Output (in-room):
110dB
Enclosure Type:
direct radiating, vented
Port Type:
dual, rear firing
Overall Frequency Response:
25Hz - 180Hz
-3dB Limits:
38Hz - 160Hz
Crossover Frequency:
adjustable 60Hz - 160Hz
Phase Control:
switch 0º or 180º
Inputs:
speaker, LFE and line level
Outputs:
speaker level
Dimensions:
(includes binding posts & heat sinks)
15"H x 13 1/2"W x 18 1/2"D
381mmH x 342.9mmW x 469.9mmD
If you just want the sub working again, buy another of their plate amps - none of us have any idea if there's any eq going on in there, and another plate amp won't have the same eq. The results would get unpredictable.
If you wanted some fun, you could buy another (same model, etc), and run some wires out to the faulty sub, so one amplifier powers both.
If you wanted lots of fun, take the driver out, find someone on here fairly close to you that (for a couple of alcoholic beverages of their choice) will measure the Thiele Small Parameters for you, and then design a much better enclosure than the original. Build that, buy a better plate amp, and watch people's jaws drop when you say "oh, that's only a single 10"."
Chris
If you wanted some fun, you could buy another (same model, etc), and run some wires out to the faulty sub, so one amplifier powers both.
If you wanted lots of fun, take the driver out, find someone on here fairly close to you that (for a couple of alcoholic beverages of their choice) will measure the Thiele Small Parameters for you, and then design a much better enclosure than the original. Build that, buy a better plate amp, and watch people's jaws drop when you say "oh, that's only a single 10"."
Chris
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