Hi, I've been reading the forum, and recently made my first pair of single driver small tower based on Faital Pro 3FE200 which resulted quite good so now I bought another pair, also 8FE200 woofers and a pair of "American Vox" Tweeters rated at 95db. There are not many options in my country.
The design is a 40L vented Box with a look similar to JBL L100 or those old school speakers
Could you please tell me if this 1st order crossover is a good starting point. I like the simplicity of it and the reduced phase problems, but I have two concerns:
1)Will this be too bassy? I'm thinking of reducing the Mids low response by making a small mid's enclosure and also I'm considering there will be a baffle boost in the mid frecuencies. I wont mind a slighly V shaped sound with this project.
2) In the 2-3K region the 3 speakers will be contributing almost equally, is this a problem?
Some notes:
I could also low pass the Mid, to reduce the low mids, but first i'll try to reduce them acoustically with the enclosure.
Tweeter response is not the actual response, I found a similar driver and using that response, here it's inverted to work properly.
The mid range driver is the least sensitive one with 91db, vs 95db woofer and tweeter.
Thank you in advance! This is my first post, if there is any problem please let me know.
Regards
The design is a 40L vented Box with a look similar to JBL L100 or those old school speakers
Could you please tell me if this 1st order crossover is a good starting point. I like the simplicity of it and the reduced phase problems, but I have two concerns:
1)Will this be too bassy? I'm thinking of reducing the Mids low response by making a small mid's enclosure and also I'm considering there will be a baffle boost in the mid frecuencies. I wont mind a slighly V shaped sound with this project.
2) In the 2-3K region the 3 speakers will be contributing almost equally, is this a problem?
Some notes:
I could also low pass the Mid, to reduce the low mids, but first i'll try to reduce them acoustically with the enclosure.
Tweeter response is not the actual response, I found a similar driver and using that response, here it's inverted to work properly.
The mid range driver is the least sensitive one with 91db, vs 95db woofer and tweeter.
Thank you in advance! This is my first post, if there is any problem please let me know.
Regards
Greets!
Which AV tweeter? There's several and none I checked were 95 dB, only 92, 106 dB.
Which AV tweeter? There's several and none I checked were 95 dB, only 92, 106 dB.
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You are going to want to put a high pass on the mid so it doesn’t try to make bass which will muddy up the midrange.
I'm considering adding a capacitor to do that. Wont a small mid range enclosure be enogh? I'll probably make a not so small one and reduce it volume with wood inside to have both options.
With the capacitor it would be something like this, i would have to invert the mid.
With the capacitor it would be something like this, i would have to invert the mid.
If you have the mid in the bass enclosure then you need to build a box. When you do you should still consider a high pass filter.
Even in the enclosure the mid will be trying to make lower frequencies that it can’t. A cap will lessen that problem greatly and allow it to play louder cleaner. Try both inverted phase and non inverted to see how i5 matches up with the other drivers. Either way you will be 90 out but it should be better one way.
No, the driver haven't arrived yet. Those are based on the manufacturer specs.
The plan is bulding the cabinet, high pass the tweeter and listen to how it sound and then add the rest of the parts and tweak accordingly, but by listening and comparing them to a of monitor to have a reference. If I find it sounds good I will make the crossover for the second speaker. I don't have a measuring mic and not sure if my old audio interface is flat enough, it would also be nice to make it by ear if that makes sense.
Look for about Bafle step compensation articles, factory curves are useless cause a speaker baffle will exhibit ĺoss and difraction with a progressive loss of spl towards the lows. Try this free tool: The Edge from Tolvan. Easy and ligth process.
Based on the units of your first post, I beleive the tweeter should be attenuated if it is a true 94 db. Although I didn't read the datasheets. Also 4.7 uF seems wrong for a mid high pass ?!
Notice also than your loudspeakers being near the floor and the rear wall, bass units benefit of some baffle step compensation with spl reenforcment. If you can, according the equilibrium and layout room possibilities, maybe you could lift them up ? 20 à 30 cm stands ?
Notice also than your loudspeakers being near the floor and the rear wall, bass units benefit of some baffle step compensation with spl reenforcment. If you can, according the equilibrium and layout room possibilities, maybe you could lift them up ? 20 à 30 cm stands ?
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I'll make some wooden stands similar to those of Epsilon Heritage speaker, they sound way bassier there than on the table I was making them.
Now I use a two way tone control, I tame de highs a little and the lows quite a bit. The front baffle is only screwed, not glued, so I can adjust further. Now they are notably V shaped with a lack o body in the 600Hz.
I'll reconsider the baffle step compensantion (there is some but only affecting the mid) and a higher value capacitor, maybe adding one in paralell so the mid works lower and then tame both drivers.
Now I use a two way tone control, I tame de highs a little and the lows quite a bit. The front baffle is only screwed, not glued, so I can adjust further. Now they are notably V shaped with a lack o body in the 600Hz.
I'll reconsider the baffle step compensantion (there is some but only affecting the mid) and a higher value capacitor, maybe adding one in paralell so the mid works lower and then tame both drivers.