Does anyone know anything about this woofer. It is double spider Numbers on it are 117V and 050324.
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Velodyne, maybe? I can't make out some of the basket details in your pictures, but the 3-spoke structure on the back looks right. The ribbon cable makes sense if it's a servo system.
Someone else's pics of a Velodyne 18
Velodyne F-1800RII subwoofer repair | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Someone else's pics of a Velodyne 18
Velodyne F-1800RII subwoofer repair | Audiokarma Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
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That looks a lot like it.
It has a very low free air resonance and draws gobs of current. Structure is very sturdy. My son has blow up 2 amps testing it. They were small crappy amps but they are cooked.It has triple stacked magnets. a 3" Voice coil. About 2" of excursion. 4 Ohms single coil.
It has a very low free air resonance and draws gobs of current. Structure is very sturdy. My son has blow up 2 amps testing it. They were small crappy amps but they are cooked.It has triple stacked magnets. a 3" Voice coil. About 2" of excursion. 4 Ohms single coil.
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It is the Velodyne DD-15
Velodyne DD-15+ Introduction | Audioholics
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Now I know what kind of box to build.
Velodyne DD-15+ Introduction | Audioholics
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Now I know what kind of box to build.
If you want serious subwoofer performance, you may want to plan on some form of equalization. A lot of the high powered subs that are small use equalization and excursion to make up for the inherent rolloff produced by the small enclosure. I'm not sure if Velodyne employed this method to compensate for a higher fc. If you can measure the T/S parameters, it may be worth checking your design before building.
On the other hand, if you're just having fun, ignore all this and carry on.
On the other hand, if you're just having fun, ignore all this and carry on.
Actually. This is a project for my son. He has been playing with and destroying subwoofers and amplifiers for a couple years now. He wants to try building a 6th order box. But it would be huge.
It has been years since I measured the Thiele Small parameters. But I think I have everything to measure it still. Just need to find the book again to refresh my memory. "Great Sound Stereo Speaker Manual" I loved the book and learned a lot form it. We lost it in a move several years ago.
I think it is the first thing we need to do. Without the T/S Parameters it will be hard to tell what the optimal box for it is.
I suppose we could just guess. I might even be fairly close since I used to build sub boxes for the shop I worked in years ago. But I always had the Vas, Qes, and Fs as a starting point.
I have always liked the sound of a seal box better that ported. To me it sounds more uniform without a huge bump in frequency response. But that comes at a cost of box size.
I built boxes for 2 18" subs that were sealed. They sounded wonderful but they were about 3.5 cubic foot each If I recall correctly the dimension ratio was 0.6, 1.0, 1.6 . I guess I could have designed them into a coffee table. But not put anything on it. The subs started to roll off at 18hz. and were fairly flat until about 350hz. I crossed them over at 300hz.
My neighbor would call and ask me to play Pink Floyd for him every once in a while. His house was about 500 feet away. Oh those were the days.
Now my kid is getting into it. He would have loved my system back then. It was very loud and very clean. But unfortunately it is long gone.
Yes we are going to play with this sub and it will be fun.
It has been years since I measured the Thiele Small parameters. But I think I have everything to measure it still. Just need to find the book again to refresh my memory. "Great Sound Stereo Speaker Manual" I loved the book and learned a lot form it. We lost it in a move several years ago.
I think it is the first thing we need to do. Without the T/S Parameters it will be hard to tell what the optimal box for it is.
I suppose we could just guess. I might even be fairly close since I used to build sub boxes for the shop I worked in years ago. But I always had the Vas, Qes, and Fs as a starting point.
I have always liked the sound of a seal box better that ported. To me it sounds more uniform without a huge bump in frequency response. But that comes at a cost of box size.
I built boxes for 2 18" subs that were sealed. They sounded wonderful but they were about 3.5 cubic foot each If I recall correctly the dimension ratio was 0.6, 1.0, 1.6 . I guess I could have designed them into a coffee table. But not put anything on it. The subs started to roll off at 18hz. and were fairly flat until about 350hz. I crossed them over at 300hz.
My neighbor would call and ask me to play Pink Floyd for him every once in a while. His house was about 500 feet away. Oh those were the days.
Now my kid is getting into it. He would have loved my system back then. It was very loud and very clean. But unfortunately it is long gone.
Yes we are going to play with this sub and it will be fun.
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6th order high-pass or 6th order bandpass? I built a 6th order bandpass, and it sounds terrible. Probably due to huge group delay. I suppose the same for 6th order high-pass. Definitely not suitable for serious music listening, but it depends on the type of music of course.
He wants earth shattering bass... Not much else. We argue about it a lot. He knows a heck of a lot about sub woofers. And a little bit about full spectrum sound systems.
I think the 4th or 6th order thing of him is more about seeing what it sounds like. He has taken some pretty basic run of the mill subs and made them sound quite good. Toying with boxes, Cutting magnets off of fried speakers and turning them into passive radiators.
He takes his lumps too or actually we both do. He managed to blow up 2 of my bigger amps. A Marantz and a Ramsa WP1400.
He went through a phase of cooking speakers for fun. That stopped when I showed him how much it would cost to fix the Ramsa. It was about 350 in parts. He cooked it real good.
I think the 4th or 6th order thing of him is more about seeing what it sounds like. He has taken some pretty basic run of the mill subs and made them sound quite good. Toying with boxes, Cutting magnets off of fried speakers and turning them into passive radiators.
He takes his lumps too or actually we both do. He managed to blow up 2 of my bigger amps. A Marantz and a Ramsa WP1400.
He went through a phase of cooking speakers for fun. That stopped when I showed him how much it would cost to fix the Ramsa. It was about 350 in parts. He cooked it real good.
Something to keep in mind with bandpass designs is that they can hide distortion. Some of the cues that you are over-driving the speaker are harder to discern.
With 6th order, you may also unload the driver below the lower resonance. An infrasonic filter (or highpass) may be in order, depending on what's being done.
If you have modeling software, that should show the output and excursion vs. frequency at X power. You can compare different box designs and discuss the benefits and trade-offs with him. Estimates of step response are sometimes available as well.
Assuming you have the room, I'm always a fan of more woofers for more output. It tends to be a more reliable way to get there.
Big bass is its own kind of fun. I've helped a friend do some pretty outrageous car audio projects, and they were always amusing. With enough DSP, they can also be switched from 1) blow your face off while protecting the speakers to 2) high sound quality.
With 6th order, you may also unload the driver below the lower resonance. An infrasonic filter (or highpass) may be in order, depending on what's being done.
If you have modeling software, that should show the output and excursion vs. frequency at X power. You can compare different box designs and discuss the benefits and trade-offs with him. Estimates of step response are sometimes available as well.
Assuming you have the room, I'm always a fan of more woofers for more output. It tends to be a more reliable way to get there.
Big bass is its own kind of fun. I've helped a friend do some pretty outrageous car audio projects, and they were always amusing. With enough DSP, they can also be switched from 1) blow your face off while protecting the speakers to 2) high sound quality.
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