Hi All,
I bought a non-shorting, 12 step, 2 deck Grey Hill switch recommeneded by someone here on some forum. I tried to build a 10k shunt type and this failed miserably.
This attenuator is for a BOZ's output.
First off, the diagram I followed said to put the highest value at step-1. Step-11 has the lowest value and step-12 is to ground thru a jumper to a circlar ground wire that wraps around the whole switch. Stop pin set at the 12th position
What resulted was- at the left most position, the attenuator seemed to be set to mute. Then, I went one step up, the volume came on FULL. I turned the switch full clock-wise and the volume began to lower. However, at the lowest "setting" it was very, very loud (though it did sound good!
).
I know this much:
-The resistors are in the wrong order and possibly the wrong value.
-It might be the wrong switch because there was a "pop" when switching. Should the switch be a make-before-break? Or, is this happening because it is a shunt type attenuation?
-I had to use a 21k instead of a 20k resistor at 1 step along the way.
-The shunt resistor is 21k. Is this too high a value?
Is any thing from this attenuator switch salvageable into a working attenuator? I attached a text file showing the values I used.
Thanks,
Vince
I bought a non-shorting, 12 step, 2 deck Grey Hill switch recommeneded by someone here on some forum. I tried to build a 10k shunt type and this failed miserably.

First off, the diagram I followed said to put the highest value at step-1. Step-11 has the lowest value and step-12 is to ground thru a jumper to a circlar ground wire that wraps around the whole switch. Stop pin set at the 12th position
What resulted was- at the left most position, the attenuator seemed to be set to mute. Then, I went one step up, the volume came on FULL. I turned the switch full clock-wise and the volume began to lower. However, at the lowest "setting" it was very, very loud (though it did sound good!
I know this much:
-The resistors are in the wrong order and possibly the wrong value.
-It might be the wrong switch because there was a "pop" when switching. Should the switch be a make-before-break? Or, is this happening because it is a shunt type attenuation?
-I had to use a 21k instead of a 20k resistor at 1 step along the way.
-The shunt resistor is 21k. Is this too high a value?
Is any thing from this attenuator switch salvageable into a working attenuator? I attached a text file showing the values I used.
Thanks,
Vince