Curious to find out what the Keantoken's Aurum-X amp can do here.
wesayso,
Maybe the combo will be "Vicious Delicious"?
wesayso,
Maybe the combo will be "Vicious Delicious"?
If my own Goldmund inspired amp is any indication, we'd need a drawer full of superlatives
.
I'm not as experienced as XRK, but I can confirm his listening impressions. The detail and smoothness of these speakers is epic. I worked at an audio show all day listening to a $17,000 pair of speakers connected to the same amp I'm using. These speakers easily stand up to those much larger speakers. that were made by a very reputable speaker company. Those speakers had an amazing finish on them that some pore worker buffed for 18 hours, but sound wise I would take the FAST TLs. I looked for a long time to find a speaker I wanted to build. It's a very special design, because XRK and the collaborators here the best of the best. We have audio designers of the highest order here who offers their work as open source. I'm so thankful to XRK and all of you! I can't afford and don't feel like I deserve to be listening to such amazing gear. I haven't worked hard enough for it. I'm fairly new to the hobby and I got extremely lucky finding this group. I'm a strong believer in knowledge and hard work outperforming simply spending money. That seems to be what this group is about and I love you people for it. Be safe and we will all get through this pandemic, very soon.
If my own Goldmund inspired amp is any indication, we'd need a drawer full of superlatives
My one worry is that these speakers are pretty much maxed out at 100w and to have the potential of pushing 300w into them with the Aurum-X is a little intimidating. The voltages from the speaker outputs (140Vpp at up to 18A) are potentially lethal actually - and typical exposed gold binding posts etc need some caution. Insulated Speakon's are much safer for this sort of stuff.
Headroom is great to have. I was floored by what koldby's amp did with the bass in my arrays
. It wasn't overpowering, it was the grip that was jaw dropping. Just ask BYRTT.
Freeing up dynamic peaks is what I expect to be one of the key variables with these big amps that can make them sound great.
True - dynamic peaks can be huge and actually don't damage the driver. I recall Weltersys did some massive peak power tests on the TC9FD. IIRC, he was able to put over a kW of power into one for several milliseconds in a row and it survived. Eventually, self destructing if the reps were kept up too long. So, yes, I can see how a 300w amp will make the crescendos huge and non-compressed.
A 10in driver may not work as well unless it has the same wide bandwidth and low distortion that the RS225 displays. I have looked at the 10in paper cone RS270P-8 and it breaks up much sooner (2kHz vs 7kHz) and is more ragged. The high bandwidth is critical to the shallow 1st order XO.
While your at it, put the sealed ones on the floor behind or beside with the 225 on the bottom. This fits a nice analysis Duke LeJeune wrote up on bipoles around the time he did the Dream Makers (really wonderful speakers:
The Controlled-Pattern Offset Bipole Loudspeaker
The Controlled-Pattern Offset Bipole Loudspeaker
Yes. Underneath and horizontal is probably worth a quick try. My experience with this is that it does not necessarily improve the listening experience if you have your front-firing mains well set up, and you are in the sweet spot; the benefit is improving the sound throughout the room.
I have been a complete believer in TLs since my first one.
So much more satisfying than a vented version of the same speaker.
STI file for fullrange cup
I'm a bit daunted by making the fullrange enclosure described herein, so I made a 3D printable enclosure instead. If anyone wants the .stl file, let me know. I'm not sure exactly what the volume is, but it's meant to operated sealed and should be close enough. It's about a 6 hour print on my delta printer and I just started the first one.
I'm a bit daunted by making the fullrange enclosure described herein, so I made a 3D printable enclosure instead. If anyone wants the .stl file, let me know. I'm not sure exactly what the volume is, but it's meant to operated sealed and should be close enough. It's about a 6 hour print on my delta printer and I just started the first one.
Attachments
The volume should be at least 1.2 to 1.5L or more. A longer orange cone with a shallower angle will absorb the back reflection better. The material on the cone is nice as it is slightly compliant for good damping. It is not hard. A 5 sided wooden or foam core pyramid is not that hard to make. Make a mock up out of cardboard first for a pattern and to test fit. Then glue wooden triangles with wood glue and seal with caulking or hot melt. Use take to hold together while glue dries.