I haven't seen his video, my assumption is based on car amps and sub speakers are usually very low impedance.
On the network. I can manufacture a 2000W 8 ohm class D amplifier.
And let everyone not pick out the problem.
. And no one can confirm whether it is 20W or 2000W in ten years. In fact, the 500W 800W class D amplifier sold on the network.
Most of their real power is 5W or 8W.
But they still sell for ten years. No one said there was a problem. Because no one can prove how much power these are.
In fact, most people use 5W power amplifiers.
In fact, 5W is enough.
In fact, the power of the class D amplifier is nominal. It's more exaggerated than you think. Even exaggerate.
Maybe in a few days, they can add a few more zeros
Class D amplifier is the same as switching power supply.
Virtually all switching power supplies sold. The nominal power is also false.
Such as a nominal 500 W switching power supply. Actual measurement. The power for continuous operation is lower than 20W.
They have been selling for ten years. No one found that the power was fake. I don't sell these. But I know.
I have ordered L50 and L20se and they came, L20se unfortunately came as a kit because of my mistake when ordering, but good thing is I am learning about schematics this way 😄
I will test it tomorrow probably if it doesnt BLOW UP🔥
I have some questions about my project:
If need to drive 130Wrms speakers with 100Wrms 80% of time and sometimes up to 125Wrms, will L20se amps be good for best sound quality or is better go with some other amp?
Can drive L20se with 50v-55v per rail so can use same power supply and filter board for both L20se and L50 amps considering L20se would be used with speaker like said above ⬆️(130Wrms)?
Reason why want same supply is because its 3way system and in live music sometimes there is only solo voice(L20se working), sometimes only drums(L50working) so it could share capacitance from supply when needed to some amp at full throttle and would also not need that much capacitors when they share all power together.🙂
I will test it tomorrow probably if it doesnt BLOW UP🔥
I have some questions about my project:
If need to drive 130Wrms speakers with 100Wrms 80% of time and sometimes up to 125Wrms, will L20se amps be good for best sound quality or is better go with some other amp?
Can drive L20se with 50v-55v per rail so can use same power supply and filter board for both L20se and L50 amps considering L20se would be used with speaker like said above ⬆️(130Wrms)?
Reason why want same supply is because its 3way system and in live music sometimes there is only solo voice(L20se working), sometimes only drums(L50working) so it could share capacitance from supply when needed to some amp at full throttle and would also not need that much capacitors when they share all power together.🙂
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What do you mean by 130Wrms speakers? Is that the max power handling of the speaker you are driving? You can power both amps from a single power supply but the L50 appears to have a max voltage of +/-50v so keep that in mind and also the transformer/power supply/heatsink/enclosure would have to be pretty large to support both L20 and L50 amplifiers.
Hi!
One question:
If I build an amplifier with 6 of those modules, is it OK to connect them to 3 * 800W LLC SMPS?
So one SMPS per stereo channel?
I want to avoid bus pumping at all cost.
Or will it be better to connect each of them to a single 500W LLC SMPS supply (doable, but more expensive)?
Regards,
Arndt
One question:
If I build an amplifier with 6 of those modules, is it OK to connect them to 3 * 800W LLC SMPS?
So one SMPS per stereo channel?
I want to avoid bus pumping at all cost.
Or will it be better to connect each of them to a single 500W LLC SMPS supply (doable, but more expensive)?
Regards,
Arndt
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Yes 130Wrms max handling.
Does the L20se keeps the quality of sound and low distortion at that power considering most owners use them at 20W max. Or some other amp could fit better?
And also same question in case I supply it with 50v, Does it keep quality and power to drive 130Wrms speaker at full power ?
Power supply would be separate from amp with few meters of thick wire, that the reason why want to use same supply for both.
I assembled one channel and am not quite impressed with results, Its not clean and detailed as thought. Do you think there is big difference with these Chinese vs original parts?
IMO the wattage rating on speakers is mostly a meaningless number it really just gives you a general idea of how much power a speaker can handle. I can’t comment on the sound quality of the L20 since I’ve never owned one but I doubt most L20 builders are only using 20w max? That doesn’t make much sense why would you build a 200W amplifier if you truly only need 20W max?
The problem is you cannot say that you only need 20 watts max. The sensitivity of the speaker is paramount. At 20 watts with a HiFi speaks with 89dB sensitivity will
be running at just over 100dB peak. The same amp with a pro audio speaker could be close to 112dB. of course subs are a different story.
I was refering to pro audio speakers with compression drivers around 110db and mids paper cones around 95db efficiency..
I guess most users are people that like to listen their music on some high fidelity home speakers so there is assumption that most users dont crank it anywhere above 20w per channel.
Have try l20se yesterday with some better speakers with XO and it seems to me it may be very good amp but when have a time will take it outside or another room since this one have alot of echo and cant hear it good, will probably compare it with lm3886 too and also some pro audio amplifier on a better passive speaker.
A question for you guys..
Can we do some adjustment to l20se to make it better suit for high frequency reproduction because in my case 2 of them should drive coaxial compression driver with double diaphragm,one for HF 150w(3.5" voice coil) 700-5000Hz and one for top end 80w(1.75" voice coil) 6000-20000Hz.. active crossover would be used to drive amps too.
And other question is because sound is very beautiful but is also flat and music or sountracks doesnt make you mind flow enjoing them but like you are just inspecting tracks without delicious sauce that entertains you and melt your brain..
Is it possible to add that sauce with preamp or something and have beautiful amp for entertainment or its just made for studio monitor and its better go with some other amp?
I guess most users are people that like to listen their music on some high fidelity home speakers so there is assumption that most users dont crank it anywhere above 20w per channel.
Have try l20se yesterday with some better speakers with XO and it seems to me it may be very good amp but when have a time will take it outside or another room since this one have alot of echo and cant hear it good, will probably compare it with lm3886 too and also some pro audio amplifier on a better passive speaker.
A question for you guys..
Can we do some adjustment to l20se to make it better suit for high frequency reproduction because in my case 2 of them should drive coaxial compression driver with double diaphragm,one for HF 150w(3.5" voice coil) 700-5000Hz and one for top end 80w(1.75" voice coil) 6000-20000Hz.. active crossover would be used to drive amps too.
And other question is because sound is very beautiful but is also flat and music or sountracks doesnt make you mind flow enjoing them but like you are just inspecting tracks without delicious sauce that entertains you and melt your brain..
Is it possible to add that sauce with preamp or something and have beautiful amp for entertainment or its just made for studio monitor and its better go with some other amp?
Sorry, I missed this before. The best way to avoid bus pumping is to run two amplifiers from one supply, but have the phase reversed on both input and output of one of the amplifiers. That way as one amp id trying to pump up the bu, the other is trying to drain it,
Of course, this is more important at the very low end. If you are using a 5.1 system, only the sub amp, the .1 will be prone to bus pumping.
Can someone explain me how can D-class amp give more power in Watt to speakers than what it consumes from mains network???
I work in a company that rent PA equipment an was stunned with new active RCF speakers.
Woofer of 110kg with double 21" speaker pulls 4A 230v max from power input..
We have old 2x18" that said 2500w but 1000w for 2x 21" How is that even possible?
I understand D class have high efficiency and that newer speakers have more spl per watt but this sound unreal if know that you cant produce more power than what you get from outlet.
How is that new amps are so good
3600w RMS and pulls less that 1000w from outlet.
Is that some trick I dont get it but it looks unbelievable.
I work in a company that rent PA equipment an was stunned with new active RCF speakers.
Woofer of 110kg with double 21" speaker pulls 4A 230v max from power input..
We have old 2x18" that said 2500w but 1000w for 2x 21" How is that even possible?
I understand D class have high efficiency and that newer speakers have more spl per watt but this sound unreal if know that you cant produce more power than what you get from outlet.
How is that new amps are so good
3600w RMS and pulls less that 1000w from outlet.
Is that some trick I dont get it but it looks unbelievable.
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Its not 1/8 I will test woofer, but I have tested RCF hdl30 that specifies 300w power input and it consumes max 350w with limiter blinking at full, without limiter around 200w they say it has 1100W rms of amp power and 2200w peak. Its loud box, we have done stadiums with 5-10000 people with 8 of these per side and 8x those rcf 9007 woofers , hdl uses nd940 compression driver and 2x 10" per cabinet.
Will test woofer soon also..
Older equipment have normal specifications
tts 2x18" have 2000w rms with 2500w consumption, and ttl 33a line array 750w but new line array is much louder.
Maybe speakers are more efficient but hart to believe that much of a difference.
Why would they declare 1/8 power input especially in PA systems, thats dumb you dont want to destroy whole event😅
This one cabinet pulls around 200w, only when pushed to limiter blinking it pulls more than 250w and they usually dont go over 50%, very loud.. Can you believe that..
Will test woofer soon also..
Older equipment have normal specifications
tts 2x18" have 2000w rms with 2500w consumption, and ttl 33a line array 750w but new line array is much louder.
Maybe speakers are more efficient but hart to believe that much of a difference.
Why would they declare 1/8 power input especially in PA systems, thats dumb you dont want to destroy whole event😅
This one cabinet pulls around 200w, only when pushed to limiter blinking it pulls more than 250w and they usually dont go over 50%, very loud.. Can you believe that..
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Seems simple watt meter is not suitable for measuring such loads, I have try to measure some other speakers and got completely illogical measurements.
So there is no point to claim anything without verification, but still its interesting how older systems consumption was rated as their output level or more, but now newer one its 3-4 times less than what its their rated output watt.
So there is no point to claim anything without verification, but still its interesting how older systems consumption was rated as their output level or more, but now newer one its 3-4 times less than what its their rated output watt.