Hey
Im going to probably buy a 1000 Watt Metal Halide Bulb and ballist because im going to hope to get a picture during day. Im wondering if I buy a 1000 W MH ballist does the bulb have to be the same brand or something special? Are there compatibilty issues with bulbs and ballists? I've learned by searching here that the bulb and ballist have to be the same watt output.
Other than that is there anything else I need to know?
Im going to probably buy a 1000 Watt Metal Halide Bulb and ballist because im going to hope to get a picture during day. Im wondering if I buy a 1000 W MH ballist does the bulb have to be the same brand or something special? Are there compatibilty issues with bulbs and ballists? I've learned by searching here that the bulb and ballist have to be the same watt output.
Other than that is there anything else I need to know?
I might be able to help. I have done alot of looking around at different halide ballast and bulb combinations. The 1000watt ballast that you refer to is usually designated M47. Most of the bulbs will have ballast reqirements listed on the sites that sell them. The Standard bulbs are quite large, around 15" in length, they do make a reduced envelope bulb and a tubular style bulb in 1000watt but those start to get pretty pricy. I have a standard 1000 watt Halide and remote ballast. I thought about using it but its a monster. the ballast is heavy, puts off a lot of heat, and buzzes considerably. The light from these big bulbs is hard to collect and focus for what you are trying to do, but i have seen a few others doing it with sucess. I noticed most of they guys getting good results are using double ended HQI bulbs of about 250 watts or so. this bulb uses an M80 ballast or electronic wich runs about $120 or so. Here are some links for you to look at.
http://www.bulbsource.com/E39.htm
http://www.hellolights.com/methallig.html
http://www.hidirect.com/framesets/ballast.htm
The ballast has to match the bulb reqirements, look very closely at the specs. Good luck.
http://www.bulbsource.com/E39.htm
http://www.hellolights.com/methallig.html
http://www.hidirect.com/framesets/ballast.htm
The ballast has to match the bulb reqirements, look very closely at the specs. Good luck.
mikekniner,
aren't you worried about your electric bill? heat? and noise? i think 1000 watts is a little over the top.
ap0
aren't you worried about your electric bill? heat? and noise? i think 1000 watts is a little over the top.
ap0
Ok
Now im confused LOL
I've searched and read that you need 600 + watts mh bulb if you want to project with some light and not complete dark conditions because i would just like to close the blinds and turn it on and get a picture but there would still be some light coming through the windows.
So how many watts does it neeed to project in daylight, thats why I was leaning to 1000 watts
Now im confused LOL
I've searched and read that you need 600 + watts mh bulb if you want to project with some light and not complete dark conditions because i would just like to close the blinds and turn it on and get a picture but there would still be some light coming through the windows.
So how many watts does it neeed to project in daylight, thats why I was leaning to 1000 watts
mikekniner
I think one of the thing you will find is that its not the overall wattage of the bulb that dictates how much light that gets to the screen, its how efficient your your optics are that collect and focus the light before it gets to your lcd panel. LCD's will only allow polarized light to pass, polarization of one kind. The fresnel polarizes the light from your light source, but the fresnel seems to perfer a "point source" beam of light. The arc tube on a 1000w
halide is very big and does not work very well without a reflector housing and a condensor lens. I am using a 4000 lumem aprox.
overhead projector with a matte white projection screen, and my image is about 105-108" diagonal. I can watch movies in my basement with the shades shut and some ambient light in the room as long as there is no light shining directly on the screen.
I found a good deal on a overhead projector that has a 575watt
halide bulb. that projector should be about 8000 lumens and probably will be washing the measly contrast out on my panel.
This particular type of bulb in my new projector is a point source
HQI bulb that is very compact. That is the key to getting the results you want. I think the 250w hqi would be more than enough if properly focused. My FXL halogen is 410watts / 16000 lumens. 600 watt halogen 17000 lumens, 250w hqi 20000 lumins.
I think members rolm an ywh have used these 250 watt hqi's with good results.
I think one of the thing you will find is that its not the overall wattage of the bulb that dictates how much light that gets to the screen, its how efficient your your optics are that collect and focus the light before it gets to your lcd panel. LCD's will only allow polarized light to pass, polarization of one kind. The fresnel polarizes the light from your light source, but the fresnel seems to perfer a "point source" beam of light. The arc tube on a 1000w
halide is very big and does not work very well without a reflector housing and a condensor lens. I am using a 4000 lumem aprox.
overhead projector with a matte white projection screen, and my image is about 105-108" diagonal. I can watch movies in my basement with the shades shut and some ambient light in the room as long as there is no light shining directly on the screen.
I found a good deal on a overhead projector that has a 575watt
halide bulb. that projector should be about 8000 lumens and probably will be washing the measly contrast out on my panel.
This particular type of bulb in my new projector is a point source
HQI bulb that is very compact. That is the key to getting the results you want. I think the 250w hqi would be more than enough if properly focused. My FXL halogen is 410watts / 16000 lumens. 600 watt halogen 17000 lumens, 250w hqi 20000 lumins.
I think members rolm an ywh have used these 250 watt hqi's with good results.
Hey
Thanks for guiding me, so I need an overhead frensel, not the ones from buisness depot, sorry for the bad spelling. And what is HQI? What does it stand for lol? Where and how expensive are they?
Again thanks for tell me before I dish out my money
Thanks for guiding me, so I need an overhead frensel, not the ones from buisness depot, sorry for the bad spelling. And what is HQI? What does it stand for lol? Where and how expensive are they?
Again thanks for tell me before I dish out my money
mikekniner,
The fresnel on this site is supposed to work for up to a 15" panel. http://people.eecs.ku.edu/~astaples/other/links.htm
To be honest with you I dont know what the "HQI" acronym
stands for. I know that they require a ballast that can put out a higher starting voltage. This is a pulse type ballast. I have not been able to locate a suitable magnetic ballst for the double ended HQI bulbs for 250/400 watts M80 is the 250 and M108 is
the correct one for the 400watt. All the bulbs on this link are HQI.
http://www.bulbsource.com/MHDoubleEnded.htm
Look at the ballast callout on the chart at the bottom of that page. Where it says"bulb type" that tells you the diameter of the bulb in 1/8"s I believe, a "T8" bulb would be 1" in diameter wich is way easier to work with than a 7.5" diameter 1000watt bulb.
You can get electronic ballasts that will fire these HQI bulbs.
Sites that sell Aqurium equitment have them. they are a little pricy at about $120 ish.
http://www.hellolights.com/elbalmethal1.html
One more thing. when choosing a bulb, look at the color temprature. It need to be no less than 4000k and probably no more than 6500k. Some were right in between is Ideal.
BTW, a halogen is like 3000k or so, too much red tint to the image.
The fresnel on this site is supposed to work for up to a 15" panel. http://people.eecs.ku.edu/~astaples/other/links.htm
To be honest with you I dont know what the "HQI" acronym
stands for. I know that they require a ballast that can put out a higher starting voltage. This is a pulse type ballast. I have not been able to locate a suitable magnetic ballst for the double ended HQI bulbs for 250/400 watts M80 is the 250 and M108 is
the correct one for the 400watt. All the bulbs on this link are HQI.
http://www.bulbsource.com/MHDoubleEnded.htm
Look at the ballast callout on the chart at the bottom of that page. Where it says"bulb type" that tells you the diameter of the bulb in 1/8"s I believe, a "T8" bulb would be 1" in diameter wich is way easier to work with than a 7.5" diameter 1000watt bulb.
You can get electronic ballasts that will fire these HQI bulbs.
Sites that sell Aqurium equitment have them. they are a little pricy at about $120 ish.
http://www.hellolights.com/elbalmethal1.html
One more thing. when choosing a bulb, look at the color temprature. It need to be no less than 4000k and probably no more than 6500k. Some were right in between is Ideal.
BTW, a halogen is like 3000k or so, too much red tint to the image.
On the link for the Fresenal, I'm probably going to get the triplet lens and fresenal from that site
Aswell as saw the MH 400 Watt kit they are selling
Here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2308851707&category=3186
I find that very appealing because its all in one kit and very cheap. Did anyone use this before and do you recommend?
Thanks a lot again!
Aswell as saw the MH 400 Watt kit they are selling
Here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2308851707&category=3186
I find that very appealing because its all in one kit and very cheap. Did anyone use this before and do you recommend?
Thanks a lot again!
I am not sure how that will work. that is an M59 standard ballast.
The bulb is quite a bit smaller than the 1000watt bulb but still about 4" in diameter. They must be having good luck with it if they are selling them.
On a side note, I just picked up an overhead projector that is powered by a 575watt halide HQI bulb. I has an electronic ballast
and the bulb is 6000k color temp. I paid $85 for this projector with a good working bulb. Its a Dukane 670, the 680 also has
the same bulb, as well as the ELMO A305SD and many others.
For that price I got the bulb, ballast, fresnel, and lens, If I decide I want to make something more modular/compact.
I know someone in here has a list of alot of overheads that use these
HMI575w bulbs. There are still plenty of good deals out there on these units, although the ones online are getting scarce.
Something to consider if that 400 watt setup doesnt give you
the results you are looking for.
The bulb is quite a bit smaller than the 1000watt bulb but still about 4" in diameter. They must be having good luck with it if they are selling them.
On a side note, I just picked up an overhead projector that is powered by a 575watt halide HQI bulb. I has an electronic ballast
and the bulb is 6000k color temp. I paid $85 for this projector with a good working bulb. Its a Dukane 670, the 680 also has
the same bulb, as well as the ELMO A305SD and many others.
For that price I got the bulb, ballast, fresnel, and lens, If I decide I want to make something more modular/compact.
I know someone in here has a list of alot of overheads that use these
HMI575w bulbs. There are still plenty of good deals out there on these units, although the ones online are getting scarce.
Something to consider if that 400 watt setup doesnt give you
the results you are looking for.
I'm probably going to get the 400 W metal halide and the triplet lens and frensal from that alans website (diylabs.org) and do the mark 1 or try the mark 2 because they are proven designs.
You think its a good idea?
Thanks for you insight!
You think its a good idea?
Thanks for you insight!
I think it should work fine. Just out of curiosity, what lcd panel are planning on useing? I have a projection panel that works fairly well, but I am thinking about dissasembling a 14 or 15"
computer monitor. The 14" that I am looking at is 1024x768
res. with a 250:1 contrast ratio. I wanted to find a 14" with higher contrast but "YWH" thought that the contrast would be
good enough. He's probably right, he's got a killer setup and uses a 14" panel I believe. If you havent already, you should check out some of his threads. Good pictures, good info.
The NEC 1545V is also very tempting because its almost a sure thing for dissasembly. But I am not sure I want cut up the top on my overhead so I can get the full screen width.
computer monitor. The 14" that I am looking at is 1024x768
res. with a 250:1 contrast ratio. I wanted to find a 14" with higher contrast but "YWH" thought that the contrast would be
good enough. He's probably right, he's got a killer setup and uses a 14" panel I believe. If you havent already, you should check out some of his threads. Good pictures, good info.
The NEC 1545V is also very tempting because its almost a sure thing for dissasembly. But I am not sure I want cut up the top on my overhead so I can get the full screen width.
Hey
First im going to probably go with something very cheap like 20 bucks just to see if everything works out alright, if everything is fine ill probably go for the nec and disassemble or ill look for something else like a sharp QA-1800 or 1700 but maybe 1650 but thats only 640 by 480
Ill post a website once some parts come in and show my progress
Thanks for your help!!!
First im going to probably go with something very cheap like 20 bucks just to see if everything works out alright, if everything is fine ill probably go for the nec and disassemble or ill look for something else like a sharp QA-1800 or 1700 but maybe 1650 but thats only 640 by 480
Ill post a website once some parts come in and show my progress
Thanks for your help!!!
The Sharp QA-1650 is what I am useing right now. You would be suprised, 640x480 is not bad at all. Its the contrast that I find is
really lacking. I doesnt do dark scenes very well. My overhead that I was useing was inadequite though. My new one should help, its twice as bright. But my new one hasnt arrived yet, probably be a few more days.
Most of the old projection panels have 100:1 contrast or less,
so almost anything that is newer would be way better. XGA res
would definatly be nice too.
really lacking. I doesnt do dark scenes very well. My overhead that I was useing was inadequite though. My new one should help, its twice as bright. But my new one hasnt arrived yet, probably be a few more days.
Most of the old projection panels have 100:1 contrast or less,
so almost anything that is newer would be way better. XGA res
would definatly be nice too.
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