A 10" driver is a woofer, not a subwoofer. You will need to shift a lot more air if you want LF at decent levels.
How come you get to decide what a woofer is vs subwoofer? If my 10" seperate subwoofers (2) operate from 32- 120hz I'm calling them subwoofers. Low frequencies and very limited band width = subwoofer.
If you want to get more response from members here, enter more information. Is is a closed cabinet, for example,
Then specify which exact speakers you got. Brand, impedance, Maybe post the x-over.
If you leave the searching for data to others, many ignore your post. Why should they spent time for your speaker if you don´t think it is worthn it? You want free advice, so do not make it complicated for others.
I can not recommend a woofer for you if I do not know the sensitivity of the mid and tweeter for example.
If you want low response from a small cabinet, you will usualy end up with a low effiency driver, which will not match your concept.
Maybe your woofer is not too bad at all and can perform better in you cabinet with another concept. If you do not have the TSP, measure them!
Using a plate amp for the woofer may be another option.
Then specify which exact speakers you got. Brand, impedance, Maybe post the x-over.
If you leave the searching for data to others, many ignore your post. Why should they spent time for your speaker if you don´t think it is worthn it? You want free advice, so do not make it complicated for others.
I can not recommend a woofer for you if I do not know the sensitivity of the mid and tweeter for example.
If you want low response from a small cabinet, you will usualy end up with a low effiency driver, which will not match your concept.
Maybe your woofer is not too bad at all and can perform better in you cabinet with another concept. If you do not have the TSP, measure them!
Using a plate amp for the woofer may be another option.
This are the speakers: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/speakers-comparison.293218/post-4917228
I already reduce the level on the mid and tweeter. Now seems to sound better but I have big problems with the rooms.
This are the last quick measurement:
The spike at ~150Hz is from room.
This are the last schematic of used filters:
I already reduce the level on the mid and tweeter. Now seems to sound better but I have big problems with the rooms.
This are the last quick measurement:
The spike at ~150Hz is from room.
This are the last schematic of used filters:
Attachments
Last edited:
Can you post what drivers you got? Brand and exact model? Impedance? You can not give reasonabel advice without the whole picture.
The x-over looks very complicated. Were the chassis measured in the box for making it or did someone construct it from scratch, maybe calcualting values?Do you have a shematic? How is the response of the whole speaker?
If you do not measure and don't know how an x-over works and is matched to a box (the one you got, there is no universal one!), we run into problems.
The best advice would be to get a separate sub amp, so you can adjust low level and maybe rise the bottom a little.
If it is a closed box and the volume is to small (no one can say this without woofer TSP) a passive high pass may give you that extra low beat.
So, no input, no output.
The x-over looks very complicated. Were the chassis measured in the box for making it or did someone construct it from scratch, maybe calcualting values?Do you have a shematic? How is the response of the whole speaker?
If you do not measure and don't know how an x-over works and is matched to a box (the one you got, there is no universal one!), we run into problems.
The best advice would be to get a separate sub amp, so you can adjust low level and maybe rise the bottom a little.
If it is a closed box and the volume is to small (no one can say this without woofer TSP) a passive high pass may give you that extra low beat.
So, no input, no output.
You have all requested information's already posted.
The drivers name are in schematic.
For the simulations I use .FRD and .ZMA from real measurement of the drivers in the box without filters.
By the way, the diagram posted is the simplified version after I changed the subwoofer. With the old subwoofer in a different placement in room (room gain was beautiful) the schematic was more complicated.
The drivers name are in schematic.
For the simulations I use .FRD and .ZMA from real measurement of the drivers in the box without filters.
By the way, the diagram posted is the simplified version after I changed the subwoofer. With the old subwoofer in a different placement in room (room gain was beautiful) the schematic was more complicated.
I couldn't see the schematic for some reason.
So the BS is an SB tweeter. Alpha is Eminence? Maybe 8 Ohm?
Hard to judge from the measurement. Bass seems 10dB elevated,
So the BS is an SB tweeter. Alpha is Eminence? Maybe 8 Ohm?
Hard to judge from the measurement. Bass seems 10dB elevated,
You understood well. The bas has low sensibility being an auto-subwoofer capable to work in low volume.
The vent are too high accorded in the measurement.
The vent are too high accorded in the measurement.
You do not have TSP for it? The car sub?
I may be allone, but the x-over seems over complicated. Half of the parts should be plenty. These are (tweeter/ mid) good speaker, easy to use.
I may be allone, but the x-over seems over complicated. Half of the parts should be plenty. These are (tweeter/ mid) good speaker, easy to use.
I do not try to made a new speakers, only to update an existing one.
And the mid and tweeters are chosen after a long study, so I will not change.
By the way, this is not the first speaker made by me, so .....
And the mid and tweeters are chosen after a long study, so I will not change.
By the way, this is not the first speaker made by me, so .....
Maybe try to 500uF capacitor in line with the woofer, while measuring the respnse in near field. Increase the value and look what happens.
If the data are correct, you could increase the weight of the cone a little.
If the data are correct, you could increase the weight of the cone a little.
What do you mean when you mention SRP 2530? The SRP2530 was the replaced driver. It has to high Vas value.
Yes, I know about this trick, but do you know what that bass extension gets in return? A dips in impedance at the acord frequency. If the driver are 8Ω it is OK but with a 4Ω it's not really that elegant because you destroy the amplifier.
Yes, I know about this trick, but do you know what that bass extension gets in return? A dips in impedance at the acord frequency. If the driver are 8Ω it is OK but with a 4Ω it's not really that elegant because you destroy the amplifier.
From your definition:
"The typical frequency range for a subwoofer is about 20–200 Hz for consumer products"
"The typical frequency range for a subwoofer is about 20–200 Hz for consumer products"
This is simply wrong. You do not understand the concept. No amplifier gets destroyed.
If you don't want answers, as you think to know anything anyway, don't ask. Good luck.