10 Icepower modules in a single amp enclosure

Hi, we are putting the following ice power modules in a large amp enclosure in 3 separately powered groups... there will be 3 Powercon plugs (1 for each group which will be remotely powered on via Insteon outdoor outlets)
Group 1 will have 3 Icepower 50asx2 BTL amps, and 3 125asx2 bridged amps
Group 2 will have 2 Icepower 125asx2 bridged amps
Group 3 will have 2 Icepower 125asx2 bridged amps

Questions...
1: Do I make a central ground for all the amps to be grounded to, do I make a central ground for each group, or? I am assuming each group would have its own, it I do not know.

2: Fuses...what size should I get, and should they be fast blow or slow?

Suggestions appreciated.
 
Heat buildup might become a problem with so many modules. Take care of good ventilation, or install a fan. I have 125+50 in a small closed aluminium case. Surface stays at 40C.

When power is switched on, capacitors suck lots of current, but after that ower consumption is steady and moderate. 3-stage sequential switch might be sufficient.

What is your line voltage, 230 or 110? Fuse size? Other gadgets on same fuse?
 
Heat buildup might become a problem with so many modules. Take care of good ventilation, or install a fan. I have 125+50 in a small closed aluminium case. Surface stays at 40C.

When power is switched on, capacitors suck lots of current, but after that ower consumption is steady and moderate. 3-stage sequential switch might be sufficient.

What is your line voltage, 230 or 110? Fuse size? Other gadgets on same fuse?

Thanks for the response, my speakers are over 100db efficient so I am assuming heat should stay low, but I will def be checking to see how warm the case gets. The case I have has vents on the bottom, and top, but I am thinking of having a plexi top made with more ventilation if needed. The case is a Chinese Krell ksa50 case, and has a lot of room inside...a shame that I cannot use the massive heat sinks to help keep it real cool. The rack is an open air design, so air can flow all around the equipment with the amps, and preamp having at least 2" above them, and open front, rear, and sides all open.

Our line voltage is 120v. I do not know what size fuse to use as we have 3 power cords for the amp. We will need 3 fuses.
1 power cord controls 2 asx125 modules,
1 power cord controls 2 asx 125 modules
The last power cord controls 3 asx 50 and 3 asx125 modules

We have 3 of these switches. For use with relays, or 3 of the 2nd listed ones...not sure which is better to use.
https://www.amazon.com/API-ELE-warr...ding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_tab_ap_asin_title

3/4" (19mm) Maintained Latching Push Button ON/OFF Power Switch Metal w/ LED | eBay

All the amp modules are being run as balanced, and in most cases will be running with a few watts or less. Power was not a requirement, but balanced was, so I went BTL, and bridged for all amp modules. We should be jumping the 125 watt modules this next week, and testing the wiring on one, before we wire up all 10.
 
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Does anybody read data sheets these days ? :cool:

Jan

I have never done this before, and do not know how to read schematics. I am just trying to get the info so I can get a friend who knows how to solder assemble this amp. I know that people here have done this before, and will know what is best way to build an amp, and tell me what is the best way to wire it safely, and for low noise, and that is why I am posting for help. My friend knows how to solder, but he has not built an amp before either.
 
10 amp modules with a 100db loudspeakersystem?:confused::confused:

Front 3 channels are biamped (k402 horns with EV DH1a drivers, and a pair of 15" woofers...might even try 4 woofers for each channel), the 4 surrounds are over 90db, and do not get driven as hard as fronts do. In my last HT the Yamaha pro amps light would flash, and that indicated a about 1 watt. Normal music, or even most movies used hardly any power. I did I did hit 125db once just to see how it sounded at the MLP 12'from the speakers for a short period of time.
 
Excuse me, but wouldn't it be much easier to have at least two boxes, one for L/R?

ICEpower modules don't make much heat unless they get driven close to max W, normal use is same temp as idle. I keep my boxes powered practically 24/7, now for 5 years without problems.
 

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Excuse me, but wouldn't it be much easier to have at least two boxes, one for L/R?

ICEpower modules don't make much heat unless they get driven close to max W, normal use is same temp as idle. I keep my boxes powered practically 24/7, now for 5 years without problems.
Th a is for responding.
In Mexico electricity is in tiers, and if you go over they hit you with a penalty for 6 months, so I want to only turn on the channels I will reusing. I have a big KRELL KSA Chinese copy case I am using th a than easily hold all 19 boards by laying them flat on the bottom, and then 2 boards on each heat sink...plenty of airspace, and if I vent the top more it should be running cool. I will check the temps when I get the amp up and running. O ce I have them up I will also check power consumption... I fully believe the total power consumption will not be much, but just in case I am doing or it this way.
I purchased the Krell copy because I liked the way it looked, and will most likely buy another one for 6 Auro 3d channels at a later time, and sell my Yamaha pro amps...strictly cosmetics, and the 2nd box will not be running balanced, so only 3 modules will be needed.
 
What is meant by pulling the pin on the B&O 125ASX2... I know it is for bridging, but does this mean actually desoldering the pin on the board...or can the wire just be disconnected?

I ask this because I do not know if the pin is part of a circuit trace when it is in place, and breaks the circuit when it is removed.