Ok i am winding my inductor now and i made my caps (value). I am curious if i should cut the tweeter at 3500 7.9 uf and the woofer at 2500 .5 mH . does that make sense? its 6 db / octave that would roll them in nearly half an octave correct?
Here's a crude calculator to give you some idea of the values of the inductor and capacitor.
Use the same frequency for both tweeter and woofer.
No guarantees it will come out right, but that is the theoretical ideal.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#ccc
By the way, what is your spacing between the center of the woof and the center of the tweeter? I gather you are crossing over at 3,000 Hz.
Use the same frequency for both tweeter and woofer.
No guarantees it will come out right, but that is the theoretical ideal.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#ccc
By the way, what is your spacing between the center of the woof and the center of the tweeter? I gather you are crossing over at 3,000 Hz.
😀 I dont need that but thanks though. I am beyond that. Now i am trying to decide where to cross over. it doesnt make sense to me that they cross over at same frequency since its 6 db per octave. thats alot of overlap.
i am playing them right now with .5 mH and a reversed tweeter at 7.7 uF thats 2500 and 3300. Dont ask me why it sounds better reverse on the tweeter . it just does 😛 ...... gonna play here for a bit then move it up and see if xing over at same frequency sounds right.
Incidently i seem to have lost bass response since i took that 4th order crossover apart. The distortion is gone as well but where went my bass ? 😕
i am playing them right now with .5 mH and a reversed tweeter at 7.7 uF thats 2500 and 3300. Dont ask me why it sounds better reverse on the tweeter . it just does 😛 ...... gonna play here for a bit then move it up and see if xing over at same frequency sounds right.
Incidently i seem to have lost bass response since i took that 4th order crossover apart. The distortion is gone as well but where went my bass ? 😕
🙁 I take that back .... i unwound the coil to bring it up 3300 hz and then put the polarity back in the tweeter. SOunds much better the paper midrange sound is gone. I wanna try to put some juice into it tommorow and measure the impedance and frequency and find out where it rises. This is a lot more fun then bring the bins and hook it all up.
If You planing to build more speakers in the future, it is good idea to buy digital crossover something like Behringer 2496.
It is not expensive and even less if you buy it used.
Don't be afraid to play with crossover fr. or order or type. Also it is not forbidden to try different x-over points for mid-bass and tweeter or different order or even different type.
Of course very important is loudness matching between drivers.
All that is possible in a flash with digital crossover. Just be careful not to fry tweeter with wrong setting!
Hey, if it sounds OK who cares if the x-over point
is different for two drivers or if the slope is not the same?
It is Your speaker and make it to your taste. Measurements can be wrong and misleading. Use Your ears.
Regards.
It is not expensive and even less if you buy it used.
Don't be afraid to play with crossover fr. or order or type. Also it is not forbidden to try different x-over points for mid-bass and tweeter or different order or even different type.
Of course very important is loudness matching between drivers.
All that is possible in a flash with digital crossover. Just be careful not to fry tweeter with wrong setting!
Hey, if it sounds OK who cares if the x-over point
is different for two drivers or if the slope is not the same?
It is Your speaker and make it to your taste. Measurements can be wrong and misleading. Use Your ears.
Regards.
In my experiences, 1st order HP/LP passive filters for speaker drivers at the same frequency would often produce a wide bump around it.
After many experiments, I found separating them to 1 octave apart would be nice (at least to my ears).
1st order Xover is far from "ideal" & never flat. And dip is better then bump. It's much less offensive.
If rising the mid-bass LP frequency sounded better, you might try taking off that coil & let it sing all the way it can. Then adjust the HP point of the tweeter by reducing the cap. When the high merging in nicely, it would mostly sound even better, at least on mid to low level.
After many experiments, I found separating them to 1 octave apart would be nice (at least to my ears).
1st order Xover is far from "ideal" & never flat. And dip is better then bump. It's much less offensive.
If rising the mid-bass LP frequency sounded better, you might try taking off that coil & let it sing all the way it can. Then adjust the HP point of the tweeter by reducing the cap. When the high merging in nicely, it would mostly sound even better, at least on mid to low level.
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