I have a pair of celestion H1-7050 flares, which are elliptical 90x60 pattern, and im lead to believe they are perhaps tractrix or OS WG. Theyre Fc around 3.5k, give or take. Most who know my usual tastes will know that efficiency of a finished system, is not a major priority for me, and this case its true also. Given that the CD will probably be attenuated 12-15 dB, is there an issue with a shallower filter than is usual in the HI(gher) SPL camp? Im considering woofers of 6-8 inches and 85-90 dB maybe over 90 would be nice, but its not something im worried about in my 1 bed apartment. Im working on a budget, so value for money is important, but a few quid for better sound? That ill pay lol. Any suggestions oh ye hornfolk?
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I tend to agree. Fortunately, you can easily get a screw-on to bolt-on adapter. The B&C DE250 is said to be a nice choice for tweeter duty w/crossover above 1.6kHz. I'm using the Radian 475PB, which is a little more expensive, but good value for the money if you need a lower crossover, like 800Hz. A friend is using the BMS4550, which is also a very good sounding "budget" driver.
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That's a good point. If I was forced to do such a thing, I'd try to smooth the transition with a little epoxy etc.
Hum, epoxy can be sanded when dry but is a little bit definitive.
Someone could try with silicones, as the variety for engines gasket. The trick to get it clean when still fresh is using a slice of potato as applying knife. After you can still make siliconed french fries.
Someone could try with silicones, as the variety for engines gasket. The trick to get it clean when still fresh is using a slice of potato as applying knife. After you can still make siliconed french fries.
I've measured and listened to a lot of compression drivers and for an inexpensive 1" thread on driver, for me it's the JBL 2426, or a 2427. There's also a 2425 used with the 2342 horn in the HF pack for theater applications that are 1.375" thread on. In the US at least, they are inexpensive on the used market. I've never seen a new $50. USD driver that didnt sound, and measure like, well, a $50. driver.
Most of the screw-on horns I have had have pretty good throat transition by nature of how deep the male part of the driver goes into the horn. If you want to or need to experiment or smooth a transition, what's wrong with modeling clay? That's what it's made for. 🙂
All the best,
Barry.
Most of the screw-on horns I have had have pretty good throat transition by nature of how deep the male part of the driver goes into the horn. If you want to or need to experiment or smooth a transition, what's wrong with modeling clay? That's what it's made for. 🙂
All the best,
Barry.
Ditto on the clay, it works.
I know what you're saying about the $50 driver, but the new Selenium can actually sound darn good if used right. I was surprised how good.
I know what you're saying about the $50 driver, but the new Selenium can actually sound darn good if used right. I was surprised how good.
thanks for the replies. I should say that im a noob when it comes to horn drivers. I also stated theyre screw on, which the info states, BUT there are two lugs for what i assume is for bolt on fixing. So im not sure they are screw on.
Ah, bolt is better!
Still, look through the Celestion line. Also consider the less expensive B&C drivers.
In addition to (and in conjunction with) eq., the impedance (resonaces) is often a problem with a successful design.
More money can net you a lower resonance that is "out of band". Look to 18sound drivers for this if you are interested. The savings in crossover components *might* be worth the difference in price or more.
ive had a browse, and one of the Faital drivers looks ok, and less than half the price of almost any of the Celestions. Fane are another that may be easy to obtain for me, but also expensive. I was considering a piezo driver, and it may still be on the cards. I got these horns for pennies so bang for buck is definitely a goal in this case.
Budget Horn drivers
I installed Selenium D220Ti 1" 8 ohm Titanium screw on drivers last winter. I used a temp L-pad to find the best attenuation considering the other drivers in the system. Then I removed the L-pad and installed a Mills Non-Inductive Resistor. The crossover has a 12 dB per octave slope to 4.500 Hz. Simple, Very Budget friendly and it works for me. Having said that I wish I had a budget that would permit high end horn/drivers. Now I am curious about the transition issue you brought up. I will look at that matter Monday. Thanks for that info.
Regards: Donto
I installed Selenium D220Ti 1" 8 ohm Titanium screw on drivers last winter. I used a temp L-pad to find the best attenuation considering the other drivers in the system. Then I removed the L-pad and installed a Mills Non-Inductive Resistor. The crossover has a 12 dB per octave slope to 4.500 Hz. Simple, Very Budget friendly and it works for me. Having said that I wish I had a budget that would permit high end horn/drivers. Now I am curious about the transition issue you brought up. I will look at that matter Monday. Thanks for that info.
Regards: Donto
thats a bargain right there. Im starting to think the horn is bolt on, and the cpc page is wrong. There is no thread, and 2 fixing lugs on the rear. Maybe i should post pics lol. Either way im quite sure that my initial description was wrong.
I have some Selenium D220Tis; they sound OK, except for the "titanium" sound, sort of a metallic sheen like a cymbal. I'll agree that for $50 it's a bargain. Is there a new one that uses a different diaphragm material?
Given that my horn is a short affair, Fc of maybe 3.5khz, what real difference am i going to notice if i choose a driver with a ~1khz Fs? Is a low fs even that relevant, when my horn cuts off at 3k?
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