Not sure if they from Vishay I bought them frm Element 14 its Blue in color well it simply state Powertron in their list.What type did you try from Vishay Powertron product list?
How do you use them for 26 that needs 10R 30W?I think I was the person who "discovered" these resistors and passed on the tip to Ale and others. I've been using them for many years. It is indeed sovtube that sells them on ebay. You can ask him to make up a combination of any resistors you want.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400798945712?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Usual values in 10W are 1, 10, 27, 51, 62, 360, 620, 1.3K, 1.8K, 2.2K
I no longer use them, I use the Mills MRA12,s (I've tried Ohmite too) & mounted it outside the chassis, some recommend using a pair in parallel & I stopped using Diode Bias for the reasons Andy mentioned!Thanks for the info Andy, how the SQ compared vs Mills MRA12, Ohmite AG, Mundorf M-Resist Supreme 20W, Mundorf M-Resist Ultra 30W, Powetron 30W, etc.?
How do you use them for 26 that needs 10R 30W?
I used two 10R in parallel to make 5R and added 1.2R Welwyn to make 6.2R in one of the 26 stages. You could use three 27R in parallel also depending on your needs.
5X51R in Parallel, this will give you a buffer of 20 Watts (50W). I did build a 26 a long time back with these, that's how I did it.How do you use them for 26 that needs 10R 30W?
Last edited:
Two 20R in parallel 24W, is enough?I no longer use them, I use the Mills MRA12,s (I've tried Ohmite too) & mounted it outside the chassis, some recommend using a pair in parallel & I stopped using Diode Bias for the reasons Andy mentioned!
Just to add to my previous reply, I found the Miflex KPCU 1 to be better in just about every way to FT3, more Dynamic, they add life with more speed, better Timbre, it's very noticeable with Piano & Cello, low level detail is much clearer too, the FT3's have about 200 hours on them & the Miflex a lot less, I had to go back & do a comparison between the two after what has been mentioned here, I've tried other expensive types from Mundorf, Auricap, Clarity Cap & Jupiter, all with different results, but these Miflex will be staying in, they are also reasonably priced for a copper cap, I think they are worth every penny for SQ, there's no edge to the sound either, which was the reason I went away from Diode Bias.Has anyone tried the Miflex KPCu1 in place of the FT3 0.22uf output cap or any other they felt sounded better?
Thanks. nash
Last edited:
That should be plenty, especially if you mount them outside the chassis, I'm using 1 mounted outside for 01a (250mA), they still get warmTwo 20R in parallel 24W, is enough?
Interesting, the Jupiter was the copper foil paper in oil?Just to add to my previous reply, I found the Miflex KPCU 1 to be better in just about every way to FT3, more Dynamic, they add life with more speed, better Timbre, it's very noticeable with Piano & Cello, low level detail is much clearer too, the FT3's have about 200 hours on them & the Miflex a lot less, I had to go back & do a comparison between the two after what has been mentioned here, I've tried other expensive types from Mundorf, Auricap, Clarity Cap & Jupiter, all with different results, but these Miflex will be staying in, they are also reasonably priced for a copper cap, I think they are worth every penny for SQ, there's no edge to the sound either, which was the reason I went away from Diode Bias.
Miflex 250 or 600V?
Last edited:
26 (1A) so for 10R 10WThat should be plenty, especially if you mount them outside the chassis, I'm using 1 mounted outside for 01a (250mA), they still get warm
I've got the 630V as the 250V weren't available when I got them. The Jupiter were Copper Foil in Wax, the Miflex are Copper foil, Paper/Polypropylene in oil, the Jupiters were good but for the cost a sideways step if that & for more money, the flat stack that I had I believe are no longer available, I've heard claims that Miflex have outdone the best in some systems, I can't vouch for that, but they are going to be similar to other copper Foil types.Interesting, the Jupiter was the copper foil paper in oil?
Miflex 250 or 600V?
Rule of the thumb: if you don't have heatsink, choose at least three-four times greater wattage resistor than dissipation.26 (1A) so for 10R 10W
Also if you mount the resistors inside the chassis, that's a lot heat where you don't want it which causes drift plus early component breakdownRule of the thumb: if you don't have heatsink, choose at least three-four times greater wattage resistor than dissipation.
Nice build, what cable are you using between PSU & Preamp, also why did you need to use extra filtering at Gyrator & source follower & did it make much difference?Two box 01A build
I finally completed my two box 01A build based on Ale Moglia’s low gain 01A which includes a voltage divider and source follower. The output feeds my Slagle AVC for volume control.
The PSU box contains two raw DC supplies for the filaments on Rod Coleman boards and the B+ is on the red Pete Millett board that has a Tent Labs MEC50 electronic choke. Four microphone cables form the umbilical. There are two switches wired in series, the first turns on the filaments and the second the B+; second one will not turn on unless the first is on. The tube towers have isolator blocks on them to control microphony. I used separate grounds for the L and R channels tied at the 0v HV in the PSU box. All wiring in the preamp box is 22awg silver except the short input/output wiring which is 24awg. Gyrator and source follower boards have 47uf electro’s // with 100nf stacked film caps for decoupling.
THD at 1v out is about 0.011% and doubles to 0.022% at 2v out. Gain is 4 with 100k/100k dividers; a difference of about 0.3db between the tubes at roughly similar operating points which I evened by padding the dividers.
The sound is excellent; detailed and well balanced with no harshness and the right amount of body and weight. I was surprised how well it does with large scale orchestral work. Superb image rendering of instruments at the rear of orchestra. Great dynamics. Zero hum and noise with ear to tweeter with my 93db OBL15’s at loud listening levels rising to a faint rush at full volume.
My sincere thanks to Ale Moglia and Rod Coleman and all those here who have inspired and helped me to build this preamp. I am very glad that I did.
Comments and suggestions would be appreciated.
nash
Yes these are the ones had added heatsink to themMaybe it's FPR 2-T218.
http://www.vishaypg.com/powertron/list/product-64200/
Thanks Bela I know the rule of thumb, that's the reason I asked if enough....Rule of the thumb: if you don't have heatsink, choose at least three-four times greater wattage resistor than dissipation.
Thanks Bela I know the rule of thumb, that's the reason I asked if enough
Did you used a bypass DC Link capacitor? Value?I know when I built a 26, I used 4 x10W Mundorf Caps, belt & braces
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Tubes / Valves
- 01A question