Hello, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the current draw at idle is for the Ampure Audio AA-7500.1? The power supply alone, without the output section attached is drawing around 4 amps give or take. With the output section connected it’s up around 8. It’s producing audio but that’s pretty excessive right? Another quick question, are the fans supposed to start up immediately or do they only run when the amp is hot? I apologize if my questions are dumb. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Try to find a dyno run on youtube for that amp or something very similar. Williston Audio Labs generally monitors amperage.
The owner's manual sometimes gives it but rarely.
The owner's manual sometimes gives it but rarely.
Hello, this specific model is the equivalent of the one sold in Italy by the ZAPCO brand, with the SP-7500.1D model, of which I have repaired many, and I can tell you with extreme certainty, that that absorption is very normal.
All the slightly old KOREAN amplifiers have a slightly high no-load absorption.Don't worry.
this is the zapco:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/...4706.219757788061212&type=3&locale=it_IT&_rdr
All the slightly old KOREAN amplifiers have a slightly high no-load absorption.Don't worry.
this is the zapco:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/...4706.219757788061212&type=3&locale=it_IT&_rdr
Thank you Mario. Do you know if the cooling fans are supposed to start up immediately after remote is applied? I have another question, these amps came with the Mospec URF2060D rectifiers that I was told were a little insufficient for this amp. They are also obsolete now. Do you know of any recommendations for rectifiers that would drop in? I had to get creative because there weren’t any in the same package/ size that were equivalent or better. Basically I’m just curious if you had to ever remedy this situation? Thank you for your time.
Never mind about the fans. I just realized that the version of the 7500.1 that Zapco made doesn’t have the cooling fan feature. Thanks again!😁
The fan should start immediately since it does not follow the heatsink thermal, but if they used a good fan, it will usually increase its rpm based on the temperature that the fan detects in the immediate vicinity (the fan has a built-in temperature sensor, at least the ones I've seen in some models).
In the ZAPCO there are the same diodes, and they are not insufficient at all, why do you think this?
Hello, a repair technician told me. He said that he has had multiple in his shop where the rectifier diodes were a problem. I purchased mine broken. The power supply went down and all of the rectifier diodes on one side had the legs blown off. I couldn’t find the URF2060 diodes anywhere cause they are obsolete. So I reached out to anyone and everyone trying to find them and that’s just what the one tech told me. Thank you for responding, I appreciate your help.
What was that tech's solution?
Legs being blown off of rectifiers isn't common. It's possible that the legs were breaking, then arcing. That could make them appear to be blown (like a fuse).
Legs being blown off of rectifiers isn't common. It's possible that the legs were breaking, then arcing. That could make them appear to be blown (like a fuse).
That makes sense. I didn’t come across any other broken legs. The tech is Todd from Ellensburg amplifier and service. I think he only does warranty work now for a couple companies. Taramps and Ruthless Audio. He basically suggested getting creative and trying to retrofit something. He sent me some FMU22U’s just to get it running. I’m pretty new at this and I just bought your tutorial a little while back. I’ll attach a photo of what I did. And just to be clear this is my amplifier and I just enjoy tinkering. I definitely don’t want to see it go to the landfill. Just curious, if you don’t mind sharing what would you recommend for this amp with obsolete rectifiers. Everything I did is reversible. Thanks.
Attachments
Nice work. Have you run it hard enough to see if the rectifiers will run cool?
If they run too hot, you could use double the thickness on the stock and drill through the heatsink to bolt the aluminum stock to the main heatsink.
What you did would be acceptable as long as they stay relatively cool.
If you use the tutorial, get regular updates. It costs nothing.
If they run too hot, you could use double the thickness on the stock and drill through the heatsink to bolt the aluminum stock to the main heatsink.
What you did would be acceptable as long as they stay relatively cool.
If you use the tutorial, get regular updates. It costs nothing.
I was thinking the same thing. I haven’t ran it too hard yet but I did run it until the output transistors got warm and the rectifiers were staying cool. So far so good I guess. Thank you so much for your kind words. Made my day. You have a great day also.😁