Another, more powerful Woofer. Also - could I use a compression driver? I have these small speakers. For homework.
Okay, the woofers are working. I won't change them, it will be like this. I bought defective LSR25Ps. The tweeter dome is wrinkled. And the bare one is broken (no chain) in the tweeter head. Who knows where it's broken? I don't see overheating
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My goal is not the most flat response curve. My goal is the most undistorted, accurate, solid sound. Even at large peaks. Can a compression driver be used instead B&C DE12 -16Ohm? Does this Original tweeter have a great character?
By 2 original JBL diaphragms and replace them in both tweeters.I bought defective LSR25Ps. The tweeter dome is wrinkled. And the bare one is broken (no chain) in the tweeter head. Who knows where it's broken? I don't see overheating
No.Can a compression driver be used instead B&C DE12 -16Ohm?
Original tweeter is excellent.Does this Original tweeter have a great character?
I have this idea - the tweeters were damaged as a result of a surge of current from the amplifier when turning it on or off. Because the amplifier is connected directly. The thin coil wire. it could not stand it and burned out somewhere in a thinner place. This happens in Pro systems. The same will happen with the next ones. What to do about it? What do you say friends?
The thing is, I can't find any variable diaphragms for this Twitter anywhere.By 2 original JBL diaphragms and replace them in both tweeters.
Hi Aleksei19731,
If the turn-on thump burned them out, the amplifier is defective and has serious problems. DC offset, no excuse.
Wiping out a tweeter is done by sending them too much energy. Or, the amplifier was oscillating (it has a serious problem). When using a passive crossover, burning out tweeters is a classic amplifier clipping issue. Not enough power.
If the turn-on thump burned them out, the amplifier is defective and has serious problems. DC offset, no excuse.
Wiping out a tweeter is done by sending them too much energy. Or, the amplifier was oscillating (it has a serious problem). When using a passive crossover, burning out tweeters is a classic amplifier clipping issue. Not enough power.
By the way, I took it apart and looked inside. I don't see anything that really impressed me. simple woofer on a ferrite magnet, no "Differential Drive" system from JBL, A regular Tweeter on a ferrite magnet. With a regular titanium membrane covered with "Aquaplass". Modern compression drivers are installed - this is better.No! You will ruin this excellent small monitor!
Just add a subwoofer.
Thanks for your answer. But the coil doesn't look like it overheated. And that's strange, because there's a break or burnout somewhere.If the turn-on thump burned them out, the amplifier is defective and has serious problems. DC offset, no excuse.
Wiping out a tweeter is done by sending them too much energy. Or, the amplifier was oscillating (it has a serious problem). When using a passive crossover, burning out tweeters is a classic amplifier clipping issue. Not enough power.
The magnetic gap doesn't care what kind of magnet generates the field. Not one bit.
Most of what can be seen from the outside of any speaker may look similar. The magic is in materials, and magnetic circuit design, plus voice coil.
What "sounds better" may or may not be better. If you like it - great. For a tweeter, resonant frequency and Q matter, as do resonances and sensitivity. Just to name a couple factors. The crossover frequency may r may not be compatible, plus any frequency correcting networks. A woofer to a capacitor - tweeter (with or without a pad) isn't great
Most of what can be seen from the outside of any speaker may look similar. The magic is in materials, and magnetic circuit design, plus voice coil.
What "sounds better" may or may not be better. If you like it - great. For a tweeter, resonant frequency and Q matter, as do resonances and sensitivity. Just to name a couple factors. The crossover frequency may r may not be compatible, plus any frequency correcting networks. A woofer to a capacitor - tweeter (with or without a pad) isn't great
Well, a straight break suggests manufacturing defect. Maybe even the wire that runs to the terminals may have broken due to metal fatigue.
If amplifiers are working properly, switching on and off will not burn the tweeters! Check the amolifiers first, but you anyhow must replace burned tweeter diaphgrams.the tweeters were damaged as a result of a surge of current from the amplifier when turning it on or off. Because the amplifier is connected directly. The thin coil wire. it could not stand it and burned out somewhere in a thinner place.
No, if amplifiers are working properly.This happens in Pro systems.
No, if amplifiers are working properly.The same will happen with the next ones.
Look can be deceptive.By the way, I took it apart and looked inside. I don't see anything that really impressed me.
JBL LSR 25P performance will impress anyone:
No. Frequency response of any active monitor is carefully tailored to the original drivers. You can't replace original tweeter with any other tweeter - frequency response will be ruined.Modern compression drivers are installed - this is better.
I agree with you. But these are all general phrases. I know what I'm talking about. I have JBL "Differential Drive" ( JBL 2251J-1, JBL 2168H-1) systems. I know how they sound. They sound better than without it.Most of what can be seen from the outside of any speaker may look similar. The magic is in materials, and magnetic circuit design, plus voice coil.
This is at a level of only 96 dB. If this were the case at a level of 106 dB, I would be amazed...Look can be deceptive.
JBL LSR 25P performance will impress anyone:
This is the only thing that still dampens my enthusiasm. So I understand you. But I can't find new original membranes....No. Frequency response of any active monitor is carefully tailored to the original drivers. You can't replace original tweeter with any other tweeter - frequency response will be ruined.
Hi Aleksei19731,
What Sonce said was correct and critical to remember. 106 dB is attainable with most systems, so you are almost being insulting. That assuming you are using the normal scale. I've heard better systems, but the most critical thing is that they are designed well and have a "flat" response without resonances or high distortion.
Since you cannot find the original recone kits or replacement tweeters your options are limited to a couple things. Either find something close, and probably modify EQ and crossover points. Or, abandon the project since the required parts cannot be found. You can wait until a pair shows up. It's up to you.
People are trying to help. You asked a question and it was answered.
... and I have been designing loudspeaker systems since the mid 1970's. I still learn of course and you have specific experience with that setup. But is better and sounds better are not the same thing always. You prefer that, cool.I know what I'm talking about. I have JBL "Differential Drive" ( JBL 2251J-1, JBL 2168H-1) systems.
What Sonce said was correct and critical to remember. 106 dB is attainable with most systems, so you are almost being insulting. That assuming you are using the normal scale. I've heard better systems, but the most critical thing is that they are designed well and have a "flat" response without resonances or high distortion.
Since you cannot find the original recone kits or replacement tweeters your options are limited to a couple things. Either find something close, and probably modify EQ and crossover points. Or, abandon the project since the required parts cannot be found. You can wait until a pair shows up. It's up to you.
People are trying to help. You asked a question and it was answered.
That kind of performance at 106 dB comes with much higher price.This is at a level of only 96 dB. If this were the case at a level of 106 dB, I would be amazed...
But I can't find new original membranes....
You can still by original tweeters:
https://reconingspeakers.com/product/jbl-123-00003-00-lsr25p-tweeter/
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