Hey guys, can anyone recommend me a class D amplifier board (also in Kit) that can replace this Chinese board with TPA3116D2?
I've read almost the entire thread on the TPA3116D2 and now I know almost more than the designers
I've also read (and translated from Japanese) all the evaluations and modifications made by CyberPit that date back to 10 years ago, in the meantime I think the technology has evolved.
Unfortunately my eyesight is no longer what it was 20 years ago and I struggle to work on SMD circuits, so I'm looking for a board that sounds good with two 8 Ohm desktop speakers like the Tannoy mercury mR Cherry and a subwoofer.
I don't need excessive power, I listen to music while working on the PC, the important thing is that it doesn't require modifications (or at least few modifications) and that it sounds good.
I don't make it a question of price, but since I already have the HiFi system it must be a modest expense.
The only limitation I have is space, I bought an aluminum case with an internal space as in the photo that must contain everything: the three channels + the tone control + the power supply.
Thanks to anyone who wants to help me
I've read almost the entire thread on the TPA3116D2 and now I know almost more than the designers
I've also read (and translated from Japanese) all the evaluations and modifications made by CyberPit that date back to 10 years ago, in the meantime I think the technology has evolved.
Unfortunately my eyesight is no longer what it was 20 years ago and I struggle to work on SMD circuits, so I'm looking for a board that sounds good with two 8 Ohm desktop speakers like the Tannoy mercury mR Cherry and a subwoofer.
I don't need excessive power, I listen to music while working on the PC, the important thing is that it doesn't require modifications (or at least few modifications) and that it sounds good.
I don't make it a question of price, but since I already have the HiFi system it must be a modest expense.
The only limitation I have is space, I bought an aluminum case with an internal space as in the photo that must contain everything: the three channels + the tone control + the power supply.
Thanks to anyone who wants to help me
I use Ayima A07 for my pc, if you want dirt cheap class D amp you can search tda7498E
or you can use chinese 2.1 TPA3255 variant. Tone control is rather useless if you using PC, just get Equalizer APO and you can control any freq, any gain, any Q in digital
or you can use chinese 2.1 TPA3255 variant. Tone control is rather useless if you using PC, just get Equalizer APO and you can control any freq, any gain, any Q in digital
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The Dollatek XH-M139 with TPA3116 that I already have, after the modifications suggested by CyberPit now works fine.
I replaced the inductors with 10µH Bourns, removed the C40 capacitor and now the two toroids of the sub do not heat up anymore.
I also added the antipop with the mosfet and now it is perfect, the only thing pushing me to look for a new board with tone controls that would allow me to avoid a preamplifier and is transformer.
I saw this one with TPA3221 with 3 channels because I also need to drive the subwoofer. This variant with separate potentiometers would allow me to organize the front panel as I like without being tied to the position and distances of the potentiometers but of course it complicates the wiring inside the cabinet.
It would be interesting to see if this is well designed.
I replaced the inductors with 10µH Bourns, removed the C40 capacitor and now the two toroids of the sub do not heat up anymore.
I also added the antipop with the mosfet and now it is perfect, the only thing pushing me to look for a new board with tone controls that would allow me to avoid a preamplifier and is transformer.
I saw this one with TPA3221 with 3 channels because I also need to drive the subwoofer. This variant with separate potentiometers would allow me to organize the front panel as I like without being tied to the position and distances of the potentiometers but of course it complicates the wiring inside the cabinet.
It would be interesting to see if this is well designed.
Maybe I explained the problem badly and I apologize for that.
I already have everything needed to assemble the amplifier, the aluminum cabinet, the 2.1 power stage with the TPA3116D2 (which is now fine after the modifications), the preamplifier with NE5532, the 220/18V toroidal transformer, 4x 4700µF Nichicon electrolytics, the knobs, 6 speaker connectors and the RCA sockets for the input.
For this reason I do not want to buy another finished amplifier.
The problem I am trying to solve is this: both the power stage and the preamplifier have a width of 100mm and the cabinet is 200mm wide, this together with the potentiometers already soldered on the pcb force me to have an arrangement of the holes on the front panel that is not good. For this reason I am looking for a 2.1 amplifier to replace the two separate boards that I already have. In practice a single pcb that is already equipped with tone controls but with the potentiometers not soldered on the pcb so that I can arrange them on the panel as I find most convenient.
Reading the CyberPit blog about the Dollatek XH-M139 board it is evident that often these boards are poorly designed, therefore I ask you precisely because I would not like to buy another board that then needs modifications to the components to work well.
Thanks for your patience
I already have everything needed to assemble the amplifier, the aluminum cabinet, the 2.1 power stage with the TPA3116D2 (which is now fine after the modifications), the preamplifier with NE5532, the 220/18V toroidal transformer, 4x 4700µF Nichicon electrolytics, the knobs, 6 speaker connectors and the RCA sockets for the input.
For this reason I do not want to buy another finished amplifier.
The problem I am trying to solve is this: both the power stage and the preamplifier have a width of 100mm and the cabinet is 200mm wide, this together with the potentiometers already soldered on the pcb force me to have an arrangement of the holes on the front panel that is not good. For this reason I am looking for a 2.1 amplifier to replace the two separate boards that I already have. In practice a single pcb that is already equipped with tone controls but with the potentiometers not soldered on the pcb so that I can arrange them on the panel as I find most convenient.
Reading the CyberPit blog about the Dollatek XH-M139 board it is evident that often these boards are poorly designed, therefore I ask you precisely because I would not like to buy another board that then needs modifications to the components to work well.
Thanks for your patience
I quote myself 🙂
The amplifier I was considering has a strange behavior.
The audio level of the subwoofer is against all reason independent of the general volume, this means that you have to continuously adjust both the volume and the bass and when you lower the volume to the minimum you hear the sub playing in the background.
I don't understand how they managed to design such a senseless thing!
Purchased on Aliexpress, I returned it!
Finished!
I finally completed the amplifier, I managed to fit everything into a new aluminum case, which I bought on Aliexpress for €27.00. Nice apart from a mistake on the power writing but never mind I don't notice it anymore, the BASS and TREBLE tone control writings are also inverted compared to the preamplifier, the PCB should be redone but I don't know if it's worth it.
As is evident, the HX-M139 amplifier controls remained inside the case and I adjusted the potentiometers to 75%.
I added 4x 4700µF 35V electrolytic capacitors to filter the output power supply from the switching as much as possible and also to give the FET anti-pop circuit more time to activate the muting during shutdown. Now I can barely hear a microscopic pop when switching on, completely negligible, and no pop when switching off, fantastic. Once again thanks to CyberPit! 😍
I think the 4A power supply is oversized given the efficiency of the TPA3116D2, a 2A one would be enough considering that I usually never raise the volume above 50% but I had it in a drawer and I used that.
The preamplifier with tone controls is one of the many classics with dual NE5532 available on Aliexpress, but this one has a single power supply so I saved the space of the 2x15V transformer needed for the dual power ones. I bought the kit version and, since the case has holes spaced 24+24+35mm apart, I had to mount the volume potentiometer moved to the right by 9mm and rotated 180 degrees connecting it with 6 wires. All the other preamplifiers with the right distances between the potentiometers are too big for this small case and require dual power supplies. I replaced two 18K resistors with two 43K to double the gain because obviously the single power supply halves the voltage of the op-amps and consequently also halves the amplitude of the output signal.
The case is designed to mount only a preamplifier so I had to drill 3 more holes on the rear panel to mount the speaker connectors.
It is certainly not a HiFi amplifier but it performs well considering the small size and the overall cost of about € 80.00.
I finally completed the amplifier, I managed to fit everything into a new aluminum case, which I bought on Aliexpress for €27.00. Nice apart from a mistake on the power writing but never mind I don't notice it anymore, the BASS and TREBLE tone control writings are also inverted compared to the preamplifier, the PCB should be redone but I don't know if it's worth it.
As is evident, the HX-M139 amplifier controls remained inside the case and I adjusted the potentiometers to 75%.
I added 4x 4700µF 35V electrolytic capacitors to filter the output power supply from the switching as much as possible and also to give the FET anti-pop circuit more time to activate the muting during shutdown. Now I can barely hear a microscopic pop when switching on, completely negligible, and no pop when switching off, fantastic. Once again thanks to CyberPit! 😍
I think the 4A power supply is oversized given the efficiency of the TPA3116D2, a 2A one would be enough considering that I usually never raise the volume above 50% but I had it in a drawer and I used that.
The preamplifier with tone controls is one of the many classics with dual NE5532 available on Aliexpress, but this one has a single power supply so I saved the space of the 2x15V transformer needed for the dual power ones. I bought the kit version and, since the case has holes spaced 24+24+35mm apart, I had to mount the volume potentiometer moved to the right by 9mm and rotated 180 degrees connecting it with 6 wires. All the other preamplifiers with the right distances between the potentiometers are too big for this small case and require dual power supplies. I replaced two 18K resistors with two 43K to double the gain because obviously the single power supply halves the voltage of the op-amps and consequently also halves the amplitude of the output signal.
The case is designed to mount only a preamplifier so I had to drill 3 more holes on the rear panel to mount the speaker connectors.
It is certainly not a HiFi amplifier but it performs well considering the small size and the overall cost of about € 80.00.
