How much indeed... you tell us 🙂
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...h-voltage-power-do-your-speakers-need.204857/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...h-voltage-power-do-your-speakers-need.204857/
AN are not as efficient as they claim. Measurements confirm that.
They are aquired taste when it comes to sound. Pricey too.
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audio-note-speakers.52789/
To answer your question...no, I do not need lot of power, rarely exceeding watt or two. Few hundred milliwats at normal listening level.
I visit audio shows every year, I hear AN speakers, not my cup of tea.
They are aquired taste when it comes to sound. Pricey too.
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audio-note-speakers.52789/
To answer your question...no, I do not need lot of power, rarely exceeding watt or two. Few hundred milliwats at normal listening level.
I visit audio shows every year, I hear AN speakers, not my cup of tea.
Due to the positioning of the speakers in the video, not a single closed tone is produced. It is a disembodied, powerless, dynamic-less reproduction that demands more and more volume, "power", but will never be powerful or dynamic:
My contribution:
I recommend, based on some arguments:
Speakers have an image size. Different speakers have different image sizes.
The majority of stereo signals are found on both channels, i.e. "mono".
If speakers are placed too far apart, the sound image is torn apart.
To find a sound that is homogeneous in depth, width and also height, and tonally: recommend placing your speakers about 50 cm (center-center) apart and listening for a while. Then at some point place the speakers 60 cm apart. Then at some point 70 cm. And so on, until the sound image torn apart... Don't forget to move speakers back until they play together again now;-)
With compact speakers, this distance is far less than one meter, with really large floorstanding speakers very rarely more than 1.5 meters.
Angulation: max homogeneity: often so that the outer side walls of the boxes are visible.
Distance to the rear wall: when bass and fundamental engage.
And: sources and amplifiers (and single parts as transistors or caps) and others also have different imaging sizes and shapes. The initially adjusted loudspeaker placement must very often be corrected, even if only by 2 - 3 cm, when replacing equipment.
...and: No DSP: all your equipment, all parts, the system is the "DSP"-)
My contribution:
I recommend, based on some arguments:
Speakers have an image size. Different speakers have different image sizes.
The majority of stereo signals are found on both channels, i.e. "mono".
If speakers are placed too far apart, the sound image is torn apart.
To find a sound that is homogeneous in depth, width and also height, and tonally: recommend placing your speakers about 50 cm (center-center) apart and listening for a while. Then at some point place the speakers 60 cm apart. Then at some point 70 cm. And so on, until the sound image torn apart... Don't forget to move speakers back until they play together again now;-)
With compact speakers, this distance is far less than one meter, with really large floorstanding speakers very rarely more than 1.5 meters.
Angulation: max homogeneity: often so that the outer side walls of the boxes are visible.
Distance to the rear wall: when bass and fundamental engage.
And: sources and amplifiers (and single parts as transistors or caps) and others also have different imaging sizes and shapes. The initially adjusted loudspeaker placement must very often be corrected, even if only by 2 - 3 cm, when replacing equipment.
...and: No DSP: all your equipment, all parts, the system is the "DSP"-)
You only need a LOT of power if you listen loud. Or more correctly, tend to “experience“ loud music. At that point it is NOT listening at all, it is something entirely different. That really requires a lot of power AND efficient speakers. Listening requires a few clean watts, which can be supplied by 50 or less. Into reasonably efficient speakers. That is at least the mid 80’s for dB/W. Todays trend is even lower, requiring a factor of 10 in power, bringing you back up to high(er) power requirement. And then the speakers don’t behave well when driven hard, so it sounds strained just to get clock radio volume. Accept a one or two cubic foot speaker, and 20-60 watts is plenty, and there is no lack of bass. No, it’s not going to do hip hop drive by shooting sound. But it will sound like music, and you’d never miss a note of Led Zep.
If you have crappy/low efficiency speakers even 2000 watts per side is not enough.
In my sub.
Yeah , for 100hz up a 60W amp is quite enough. The bass uses all the power , 100 down uses the most. Actual wall usage , power peaks
around the bass enclosure-driver resonance. A 20-40W tweeter is what they put in even the largest 200W 3-way tower.
I try to have speakers close to 90db. I lucked out finding my "Ultra" woofer and it's 65mm 90db coil-motor setup. Most are 85-87db.
Most bass units try to get that 130db+ by pushing 700-1KW through a 85db cheap sub.
OS
Pair of SH50s a TH sub and HQ streaming gear, in a medium sized hall - total mains power draw, a shade under 300W!
It was plenty loud enough for us too!
It was plenty loud enough for us too!
Common setup = the Harbeth + Hypex NC500's. 20K speakers deserve a KW.
How does low efficiency relate to crappy? Some of the best, most accurate speakers around are low efficiency.
I wonder how much of this is misdirected inquiry - lower i ternal distortion components in every step of amplification would be my main interest. Some of the current crop of high power amps have near inaudible distortion at full output.
I don't listen at high average levels (probably peaking in the 90 dB range) but my MiniDSP amps handle everything I hope an amplifier should.
I don't listen at high average levels (probably peaking in the 90 dB range) but my MiniDSP amps handle everything I hope an amplifier should.
That is one of their selling points , (less) diffraction.
Looking at the Harbeth crossover , I can see where some of the efficiency might suffer ... WOW !
VERY nice naked drivers + SEA 25mm tweeter.
The smaller 2-way 30.1 is the 40.1 mid (as woofer) and the SEA tweeter.
Kind of pricy ! My analogy to the 30.1 is $120 Dayton woofer/tweeter which is very similar (below).
I have the big brother 12" Daytons in my 3-way. Those are my only speakers that can handle a full party
with the Wolverine 150W amp ! <$300 of drivers = OMG ! the shame...
Speaker marketing has gone very visual these days , the Dayton 8" has a bigger magnet/motor than either a Polk or
KLH 12" sub these days. Speakers have become very inflated with ever more cheap drivers that "look good".
OS
