It should work.
How much does it cost vrs a piece of plumbing pipe?
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Changing-Port-Size.pdf
dave
How much does it cost vrs a piece of plumbing pipe?
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Changing-Port-Size.pdf
dave
FWIW, using the ~54 mm mean i.d. works well enough if not too far off the suggested pipe's i.d..Or any other advice?
Excuse me for hijacking this thread. I scored myself a pair of CHN-110 when they're on special from the local distributor a few months back. The pair have been breaking-in in the garage 24/7 ever since. Initially set my heart on the Pensil cabinet but for some unknown reason never get it done. Recently I came across another cab called Proteus on MA website, looks interesting, slightly smaller, apart from that very little info available. Has anyone built one, how does it compare to the the larger Pensil? Thanks
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Teaser, purposely too small to read dims, Scott is doing QC.
After a long hotel stay, Scot has returned home and QCed this and here it is.
http://wodendesign.com/downloads/Rongbuk-4xCHN110-MLTL-230323.pdf
dave
One of the EPI-inspired quadratics. Originally sketched some time ago but never properly drawn up -many thanks, Dave & apologies it took so long!
I promised some CGRs for the CHN in a couple threads.
Here is the free plan. https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/SmallCGR-CK110-plan18.pdf
If anyone wants to beta test the bigger ones, email me
dave

Here is the free plan. https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/SmallCGR-CK110-plan18.pdf
If anyone wants to beta test the bigger ones, email me
dave
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Is there a specific plan for CHN-110 Megalith horn ?
I see there is a Brodgar horn for Alpair 11ms, will the CHN-110 fit in it or is there a more suitable horn enclosure available ?
Filip.
I see there is a Brodgar horn for Alpair 11ms, will the CHN-110 fit in it or is there a more suitable horn enclosure available ?
Filip.
I jnow that cott is working on a Megalith for the MA200, let’s see about the CHN-110m @Scottmoose
dave
dave
No, there isn't a specific megalith for CHN-110; since it's not generally considered a 'horn driver' (although it can be used that way easily enough) I didn't really bother, since it goes straight into Silbury with only some damping changes needed.
Truth to tell, we've let the Woden site get years out of date -time, money, heath, software etc. all played their role. Most of the horns have had updates over the years as driver generations have changed or new models appeared: they just haven't been noted on the site or pdf titles. For reference, Silbury is current for:
We did have a mk1 Brodgar -I largely discontinued that because the 11MS essentially does as well in Silbury, so there was little value in having the separate design. A mk2 version is in the works for MA200 since it's a good name & it would be a shame to lose it. 😉
Truth to tell, we've let the Woden site get years out of date -time, money, heath, software etc. all played their role. Most of the horns have had updates over the years as driver generations have changed or new models appeared: they just haven't been noted on the site or pdf titles. For reference, Silbury is current for:
- Alpair 10.3 / 10P (discontinued but a few still available)
- MAOP10 (ditto)
- CHR-90 (basically the guts of the 10.3 with a new basket, coil & cap, & a slightly trimmed down cone which actually makes it stiffer)
- CHP-90
- CHN-110
- Pluvia 11
- MAOP11
- Alpair 11MS
We did have a mk1 Brodgar -I largely discontinued that because the 11MS essentially does as well in Silbury, so there was little value in having the separate design. A mk2 version is in the works for MA200 since it's a good name & it would be a shame to lose it. 😉
I just ordered a pair of CH110 drivers. I am trying to decide between the following enclosures. The Kangchenjunga, kewel, Joan, Pensil, and Silbury. I want to get the most out of this driver.
Also he stated it is not truly considered a horn driver, which has me considering the Kewel, Kangchenjunga, and Pensil.
For that, read 'doesn't require some form of horn loading' (unlike many low Q / high mass-corner units). That doesn't mean it doesn't benefit from one, depending on circumstance / requirements. Strictly speaking, if a drive unit is suited to vented box loading, it can be used in a back-loaded horn if desired.
Ok, I should give a little more context of where I am at decision wise. Here is where I see the benefits of each speaker design. Please correct me if I am wrong or elaborate as needed. Without seeing simulations of all of these designs, I am having trouble weighing my options. At first, I am kind of favoring the Joan and the Kangchenjunga.
Kewel - Plays low, smaller form factor (not a concern) not really sure the benefit of this design over a straight ported design.
Kangchenjunga - Larger than the Kewel, not sure how low it plays, acoustically more efficient with lower power handling. I like to form factor on this one
Pensil - May not play the lowest. I am worried with this one being front "ported" since that usually does not work well in my room. My room tends to favor rear ported.
Joan - Needs rear wall for bass extension, may not play as low, but has better midbass
Silbury/Avebury - these seem awesome as in overall scale. Not sure these are truly needed to get the most out of the CHN110.
Kewel - Plays low, smaller form factor (not a concern) not really sure the benefit of this design over a straight ported design.
Kangchenjunga - Larger than the Kewel, not sure how low it plays, acoustically more efficient with lower power handling. I like to form factor on this one
Pensil - May not play the lowest. I am worried with this one being front "ported" since that usually does not work well in my room. My room tends to favor rear ported.
Joan - Needs rear wall for bass extension, may not play as low, but has better midbass
Silbury/Avebury - these seem awesome as in overall scale. Not sure these are truly needed to get the most out of the CHN110.
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Going through:
Edit: Hmm. A lot of 'thoughs' in that. I really must work on my vocabulary...
It gets lower than a regular Helmholtz based boxKewel - Plays low, smaller form factor (not a concern) not really sure the benefit of this design over a straight ported design.
Not quite as low as Kewel actually -roughly the mean between it and the pensil. Reduced forcing, the longitudinal is doing more of the work toward tuning.Kangchenjunga - Larger than the Kewel, not sure how low it plays, acoustically more efficient with lower power handling. I like to form factor on this one
I suspect that might have as much to do with the speaker designs you've tried (specifically their alignments) as the vent location. The LF is essentially omnidirectional at these wavelengths, so assuming the same alignment, any differences are only going to kick in with relatively extreme positioning. Trouble is, it's difficult for many to compare since they rarely build identical boxes with simply a difference in vent positioning. What often happens is you get speakers with fairly flat anechoic LF alignments, and most of the time, if you shove those too close to boundaries, you'll get an excess of LF. That will apply no matter where the vent is though. Rear ducts can have some advantages & visa versa though, depending on design -if you've an acoustically small box for tuning for e.g., it can be a way to help reduce audible noise.Pensil - May not play the lowest. I am worried with this one being front "ported" since that usually does not work well in my room. My room tends to favor rear ported.
'Different' rather than 'better' depending on exactly which it's compared to & how they're loaded; it has the potential for more though.Joan - Needs rear wall for bass extension, may not play as low, but has better midbass
Again, depends how you're defining 'get the most'. If you want the most, then they'll give that of any existing enclosure for the driver that I'm aware of. Whether somebody 'needs' (or wants) that though is a slightly different question & down to what they're prioritising.Silbury/Avebury - these seem awesome as in overall scale. Not sure these are truly needed to get the most out of the CHN110.
Edit: Hmm. A lot of 'thoughs' in that. I really must work on my vocabulary...
You are correct in that I need to define "get the most". I would like a design that gives a bass response that makes the overall response flat enough where I will not be wanting a baffle step compensation circuit. I have not heard a full range where I have not needed a baffle step circuit. I know that Mark Audio seems to have a mid bass hump that should help alleviate this, but I also want the best enclosure design to also help in that area.
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