Hi
I have an old home theater system, a LG HX506DI, which is breaking down for the second time. I'm thinking of giving up on it. I would just like to recover its two speakers and subwoofer to repurpose them in a DIY amplifier system.
I would like to build an amplifier with outputs for two left and right speakers and a subwoofer, and with an optical input, so that I can connect it to my TV. Is this possible?
Thank you
I have an old home theater system, a LG HX506DI, which is breaking down for the second time. I'm thinking of giving up on it. I would just like to recover its two speakers and subwoofer to repurpose them in a DIY amplifier system.
I would like to build an amplifier with outputs for two left and right speakers and a subwoofer, and with an optical input, so that I can connect it to my TV. Is this possible?
Thank you
A cheap DAC board, I got one with (I think) a CS4344 DAC chip, with both optical and coax for around £10, some chip amp boards and a power supply (transformer rectifier, capacitors), ask on this forum about the details, stick it an an enclosure of your choice and you're good to go. A word of warning; sometimes when you add up all the costs, including sockets, cables etc, it can mount up. There is a thread on this forum about modifying a cheap secondhand surround reciever, as they are full of usefull parts.
I have basic knowledge in electronics and soldering .. I have already made a few circuits ., and I think that if I have a clear diagram I can handle the task of making it .. and I love DIY
I think I'm going to go with an amplifier based on the TDA2030... I even found a ready-to-use kit here. very cheap ..
What do you think of this solution?
I'll add a DAC to this solution... I also want to control the volume with a remote (I'm not sure how I'll do that) and add a VU meter... etc., etc.
Am I on the right track, or am I dreaming?
What do you think of this solution?
I'll add a DAC to this solution... I also want to control the volume with a remote (I'm not sure how I'll do that) and add a VU meter... etc., etc.
Am I on the right track, or am I dreaming?
I've followed the link, and on the circuit board shown, I can't see a 2030 chip, and it's a mono chip, so there should be two, and with heat sinks. . I've actually got two 2030a boards in transit, and they should arrive next week; they are low power - 7 watt (but plenty enough for what I want, I'm currently using a 2822 3 watt amps) and have low distortion, if I remember correctly, around 0.05% .
You sure?
Original system uses 2 x 180W amps for satellites, 200W for subwoofer.
You want to substitute them with 3 x 15W amps.
Your choice, but I would use at least 50-70W amps, think TDA 7294 or similar.
System complexity will be same as before, only somewhat larger components.
Ok
Those stereo TDA7294 boards are perfect to power right and left satellites.
You need to add a subwoofer crossover board which gets left and right, sums them into a dingle/mono output and feeds them into a Sub amplifier.
"Just one 7294 amplifier will do but best is a bridged 7294 amplifier so Sub gets higher power.
Something like: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/active-crossover-design-buffer-and-summation.379163/
There MUST be some such premade board at Ali******
or
some dedicated subwoofer power amp which includes the mixer-crossover which had L and R inputs, mixes them.intrrnally and feeds its own amplifier.
If all use 7294 a single power supply can feed all 3.
+/- 40V (even +/-32V or anything in between) is a standard power supply: say 26+26 to 28+28V transformer, a bridge rectifier, 2x 10000uF 50V caps.
Somebody must be offering them or at least the transformer; diodes and caps are generic..
If you love DIY, it is very doable.
Just think of the cabinet and case to house all that..
Those stereo TDA7294 boards are perfect to power right and left satellites.
You need to add a subwoofer crossover board which gets left and right, sums them into a dingle/mono output and feeds them into a Sub amplifier.
"Just one 7294 amplifier will do but best is a bridged 7294 amplifier so Sub gets higher power.
Something like: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/active-crossover-design-buffer-and-summation.379163/
There MUST be some such premade board at Ali******
or
some dedicated subwoofer power amp which includes the mixer-crossover which had L and R inputs, mixes them.intrrnally and feeds its own amplifier.
If all use 7294 a single power supply can feed all 3.
+/- 40V (even +/-32V or anything in between) is a standard power supply: say 26+26 to 28+28V transformer, a bridge rectifier, 2x 10000uF 50V caps.
Somebody must be offering them or at least the transformer; diodes and caps are generic..
If you love DIY, it is very doable.
Just think of the cabinet and case to house all that..
So to conclude up to now:
I will try read a bit about the existing solutions to choose one and order it.
Next, I'll move on to choosing the subwoofer crossover board, either DIY or a ready-made solution from Aliexpress.
I also need a DAC board.
After that, I need to add options. I'd like to control the volume with a remote and especially add a VU meter.
I'm making progress ... thank you
- the TDA7294 is a good solution for the amplifier.
- Choosing a pre-made solution on Aliexpress is also a good option for using this chip.
I will try read a bit about the existing solutions to choose one and order it.
Next, I'll move on to choosing the subwoofer crossover board, either DIY or a ready-made solution from Aliexpress.
I also need a DAC board.
After that, I need to add options. I'd like to control the volume with a remote and especially add a VU meter.
I'm making progress ... thank you
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I am going to order the TDA7294 amplifier. Which model should I choose? The prices are slightly different
Hi. Option first i think is better, i see a relay, probably DC protection , to protect your speakers in case of tda failure, and to prevent pop at turn-on and turn- off. At second board I don't see relay, probably only amplifier. Off course dc protection can be added as separate board if not present on amplifier board. But those will not resolve subwoofer connection, you need something for it too. Strangely, that option 2 contains output inductors, option 1 not, so you need to add that externally. Inductors improve amplfier stability while speakers cable have capacitance, also helps amplifier deal with complex load like speaker with filters inside.
I also think that the first solution is better, with this DC protection
I've seen some ready-to-use solutions .. here based on TPA3116 .. and even though I don't mind a DIY option ..
I can't find an amplifier solution with a built-in subwoofer output based on the TDA7294. I found this solution (based on TDA7498E)
for example, but I'm not convinced. or this solution but cost too much for me .. Keep in mind that my idea is to connect all these boards together with a single volume control, preferably remote-controlled, without making it too complicated.
hein? .. It's already starting to get complicated. I'm trying to draw a diagram of the different boards before making my purchases
Thanks
Also, variuos chips from ali*** can be fake, remarked, renamed ,or simply badly cloned, so there's always some lottery. It's possible that fake chips will work ok at lower power supply voltages, but smoke at closer to maximum, what's specifies datasheet, so you may need to purchase proper chip from reputable official seller like mouser , digikey etc , and resolder, if that happens.
It's always possible... that's why I would rather make my own circuit, if of course it's not too complicated.
You can use software like kicad , to create schematic of circuit, define footprints of parts, and then route tracks , and show there, and people will comment and suggest something useful. Later you can use this layout for cnc , or order your board from pcb makers. Each variant has its own plus and minus . I prefer cnc, because i don't sell anything , and most boards i make are kinda of prototype, for later improvements. And don't try to make seriuos boards on veroboard , prototyping board - not all parts have required pin spacing, also very easy to leave short circuit, and component replacement is very time consuming!
Edit: I've almost forgot third option, you can paint tracks on new fr4 board and after that etch them with special chemistry. Also there are other variants, when you can print with laser printer on cooking paper if i'm right and then transfer all that tracks picture to board , then etch.
Edit: I've almost forgot third option, you can paint tracks on new fr4 board and after that etch them with special chemistry. Also there are other variants, when you can print with laser printer on cooking paper if i'm right and then transfer all that tracks picture to board , then etch.
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I'm up for a DIY solution. I can create the circuit myself, but I need a working plan—a PCB layout or at least a schematic that I can improve. For example, I could start with a TDA7294 design and add a subwoofer output on the same board, something I can't find in ready-made solutions. I want to add my own protections and everything needed, but I need a plan because I'm not that much of an expert to start from scratch.