Hello!
I am building a high sensitivity(DSP) 4-way system, for movies/music. HF108 will be on top, Audax PR170/PHL 1120 shall be the medium; 18N862 will handle the lowest octaves in a sealed enclosure(120)Ltrs! Mid-range is suited for >400hz crossover, I need a mid-bass driver(should not take much enclosure volume) to handle 120hz-500hz, it should handle the octaves above/below the crossover points with out much breakup/distortion.
I need recommendation for a 10" or 12" Mid-bass.
Thanks!
I am building a high sensitivity(DSP) 4-way system, for movies/music. HF108 will be on top, Audax PR170/PHL 1120 shall be the medium; 18N862 will handle the lowest octaves in a sealed enclosure(120)Ltrs! Mid-range is suited for >400hz crossover, I need a mid-bass driver(should not take much enclosure volume) to handle 120hz-500hz, it should handle the octaves above/below the crossover points with out much breakup/distortion.
I need recommendation for a 10" or 12" Mid-bass.
Thanks!
10" will be a smaller enclosure regardless.
And since midbass on highpass.
Could be sealed as well.
If Qts is low enough then box can be even smaller.
I would look for a matching 10" BMS driver
with lower Qts and low inductance for highend.
Doesnt need to be a Xmax monster or large voice coil.
Likely Fs will be high.
10" drivers for more bass will have low sensitivity.
So your looking for something to get close to 96 dB.
Hence high Fs and low inductance 10" drivers will clue
you in your search.
And since midbass on highpass.
Could be sealed as well.
If Qts is low enough then box can be even smaller.
I would look for a matching 10" BMS driver
with lower Qts and low inductance for highend.
Doesnt need to be a Xmax monster or large voice coil.
Likely Fs will be high.
10" drivers for more bass will have low sensitivity.
So your looking for something to get close to 96 dB.
Hence high Fs and low inductance 10" drivers will clue
you in your search.
I have been reading about Kappalite 12" ho & Faital 12PR300.
In 10" 10NW650 fits okay
https://www.eighteensound.it/en/products/lf-driver/10-0/8/10NW650
In 10" 10NW650 fits okay
https://www.eighteensound.it/en/products/lf-driver/10-0/8/10NW650
Also possible to look at PHL or Audax since that is the mid your going for. Might be the natural choice with similar cone materials etc.
And still to this day, at 12" the good old 2206H for 120-150$ used.
Well behaved and easy to work with, well documented, decent xmax, power handling etc.
Very hard to beat for the money used.
And still to this day, at 12" the good old 2206H for 120-150$ used.
Well behaved and easy to work with, well documented, decent xmax, power handling etc.
Very hard to beat for the money used.
I have used the Beyma MC 500 https://www.beyma.com/en/products/c/low-mid-frequency/110G48/altavoz-10g40-8-oh/ in a small sealed box (14 liters) and loved the results, I used from about 80Hz up to around 800Hz with a DBX PA 2 crossover.
Over your 120Hz to 500Hz, it will hold very high SPL (over 118dB) at max power of 500 watts.
Here is a Sim with just 100 watts and 2.5mm Xmax (7mm max) and it easily holds 110 dB... At sane listening levels the distortion is ultra low and it sounds really textured and detailed.
I still have the loudspeakers in my upstairs system used as a two way (Beyma TPL 200 on top) and with corner placement you actually dont need to EQ that much to get great bass all the way to around 50 Hz.
Over your 120Hz to 500Hz, it will hold very high SPL (over 118dB) at max power of 500 watts.
Here is a Sim with just 100 watts and 2.5mm Xmax (7mm max) and it easily holds 110 dB... At sane listening levels the distortion is ultra low and it sounds really textured and detailed.
I still have the loudspeakers in my upstairs system used as a two way (Beyma TPL 200 on top) and with corner placement you actually dont need to EQ that much to get great bass all the way to around 50 Hz.
Even better is the Beyma https://www.beyma.com/speakers/Fich...rs-data-sheet-low-mid-frequency-12P80FeV2.pdf which is an even lower distortion version of the 10MC 500. Everything from its ultra fast Mms / Bl ratio (3.3) and Ref efficiency of 3% make it pretty much the perfect driver to cover your 120Hz to 500Hz in approx 17 litres sealed box (allow 3 lites for driver volume displacement) .
I have shortlisted the following drivers,
1) 12PR320
2) 15PR400
3) Kappalite 3012HO.
One of the enlisted shall be picked. So many choices, hence will stick to picking up one out of those 3 only.
1) 12PR320
2) 15PR400
3) Kappalite 3012HO.
One of the enlisted shall be picked. So many choices, hence will stick to picking up one out of those 3 only.
In a sealed box[50-65 ltrs] 15PR400 has best F3@60Hz, with intended crossover around 100-120 hz, 15PR will need less eq than others.
8ohm version of 15PR has sensitivity of 99db, taking into consideration BSC, effective will be 94db after which crossover shall suc some more sensitivity, PHL 1120 is 96db sensitivity.
8ohm version of 15PR has sensitivity of 99db, taking into consideration BSC, effective will be 94db after which crossover shall suc some more sensitivity, PHL 1120 is 96db sensitivity.
Update:- 6.5" shall be dropped. Instead, going for 3-way. Compression Driver+ EXAR400 or Gen2 waveguide on top +12PR320 or 15PR400+18N862.
The datasheet for the 18N862 suggests it can be used up to 200hz, but the FR is pretty flat up to the break up mode at about 900hz, so I’m just wondering whether it could be used all the way up to c. 400hz ? Any thoughts on this?
Unfortunately the 18N862 have an impedance response wrinkle around 230Hz, which can be a sign of cone resonance.
I wrote this last year for navigating large midwoofers for home hifi. Hope it helps.
choosing-speakers-based-on-datasheet-parameters
12pr320 seems to marry well with H108. But it is made to work vented, though for mid you can use sealed.
Beware to the baffle step to adjust your level between it and the horn, try to allow it 3 octaves.
of course sota sealed 12" as well at phl 😉
the 18" should be used in its pistonic range, a 16" is not a mid. around 100 hz to 800 hz for the 12" should be fine. Although if you want still spl, choose one with high Xmax for DSP shifting. But no high spl needed, but if you have SET amps ! At 91 dB flat 2.83V, you will become deaf as well 🙂 (problem with Theater system is more you need to go low for the copter sound at the beginning of Apocalyse Now ; a single 18" pro may be short here maybe (but for most movies OK) ! For hifi more than enough !
Beware to the baffle step to adjust your level between it and the horn, try to allow it 3 octaves.
of course sota sealed 12" as well at phl 😉
the 18" should be used in its pistonic range, a 16" is not a mid. around 100 hz to 800 hz for the 12" should be fine. Although if you want still spl, choose one with high Xmax for DSP shifting. But no high spl needed, but if you have SET amps ! At 91 dB flat 2.83V, you will become deaf as well 🙂 (problem with Theater system is more you need to go low for the copter sound at the beginning of Apocalyse Now ; a single 18" pro may be short here maybe (but for most movies OK) ! For hifi more than enough !
D
Deleted member 375592
That is a very generalised statement, which is not true in all cases.
Also a distortion measurement without a reference level or information, is not worth much. Although people love to post them like that.
Average noise level in a house is around 40db.
At 85db - 40 or less, your posting measurement of what is in the normal "noise range" of a building/neighbourhood.
and noone knows the reality.Without several independent sources confirming the same.
Thats without counting microphone, preamp noise and distortion etc.
Why it still remains the most unreliable measurement that can be posted, unless the conditions and equipment is known, and established as a reference😉
https://josephcrowe.com/blogs/news/microphone-distortion-comparison
As for disclosure, i don't know the specific driver or it's shortcomings.
It's hard to beat the SQ of the JBL 2206. Enclosure might be larger. Also depending on the horn you might not need the upper mid.