Good Evening Everyone. Am looking at 2 Mark Audio drivers. The Alpair 11MS and the Alpair 10 series 3 drivers. So the 11’s are a new driver with Mono suspension and a more curved cone. I just wanted to know which one will sound better? I can go with any one of these drivers. I know a professional audiophile who builds everything from scratch of mine swears by the Aplair 10 series # 3 drivers are the best speakers he has heard in the pencils. He has not heard the 11MS drivers yet. I have enjoyed the CHN 50 driver for a few years now and am looking to step up to a bigger and better driver and sound. Thanks for your help. Jeff
Can you actually get some A10.3?
Not an easy call.
I am working on an easy mod to calm down the top of the A11ms. Based on, we never had the issue with A10.3eN, but some have complained — and band-aided things with a notch. So i started wondering… stay tuned.
dave
PS: currently listening to A11ms in CGR with this tweak… seems to work. I havcen’t been tempted to switch them out, which i did do when they were in Seastack
Not an easy call.
I am working on an easy mod to calm down the top of the A11ms. Based on, we never had the issue with A10.3eN, but some have complained — and band-aided things with a notch. So i started wondering… stay tuned.
dave
PS: currently listening to A11ms in CGR with this tweak… seems to work. I havcen’t been tempted to switch them out, which i did do when they were in Seastack
Ohen thing: based just on numbers hen i am modeling reflex teh A10.3 probably reaches a bit lower.
dave
dave
Hi Dave.
Wondering what kind of mod you will be using on the 11MS? Is it permanent or is it easy to restore?
Zobel?
Wondering what kind of mod you will be using on the 11MS? Is it permanent or is it easy to restore?
Zobel?
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I have a 10.3 in a BR box. Nice... Except that peak. I ended up by adding a notch (0.3 mH inductor, around 15 ohm resistor and a 2.2 uF cap in parallel). Now it sounds just a bit dull, but I still better than without a notch.
I have them for more than a year so they are "broken in".
So... When I was bying it, I was thinking whether should I buy 10.3 or 10p.
Maybe I should have bought 10P.
Now, maybe I should mod the 10.3...
You might try 0.84uF without the 15ohm (or a smaller R). I settled on slightly bright/airy 0.4mH || 0.6uF (or 0.36mH || 0.68uF more common values) notch centered at 10khz (formula 5khz/sqrt(mH*uF)). Jantzen aircore and zcaps help a lot.
My other plan is a WAW with the A10.3 firing sideways supporting MAOP 5 (rescued an injured pair).
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I tried 1 mH with a smaller value resistor, but quickly removed it. The sound was dull and "thick". Then I tried the smaller inductor + higher R. Worked better in my case.
Though I'd rather have nothing, as I always have an impression that these notch filters fix one area, but damage the other.
Maybw best to modify the driver to lessen that peak...
Though I'd rather have nothing, as I always have an impression that these notch filters fix one area, but damage the other.
Maybw best to modify the driver to lessen that peak...
Hi Dave. Question? What a CGR? Sorry if it’s a simple answer? Also what cabinet do you recommend for the 11MS drivers? Thanks again Jeff
Oops, i misspoke. A CFS not a CGR.
Really confused now ;^)
CGR = Classic Golden Ratio. A close to Golden Rectangle shaped box.
CFS = Compact Floorstander, where the “box” above is stretched and manipulated to reach the floor.
dave
Depends on your needs. By itself A7/11ms et al will have very nice highly elegant and well formed bass and you may find the need for more and lower. Then add woofers. Subwoofers or woofTs (i haven’t designed enuff of these).
You can get much of that missing extention and greater omf you need to look at a loudspeaker that works to maximize the affect and usefullness of the back wave (ie Pensil or FH) — in an aperiodic enclosure, the direction towads which a miniOnken aims, tries to completely eliminate the back wave.
dave
As did @waxx.
With the treated A10.3 this was not even contemplated. I am very sensitive to these kinds of anomalies, for instance a reason the Jordan JX92 and Eikona were sent packing.
This bit seems tpo be MIA in an A10.3eN with sufficient break-in. Same with every other metal cone we tried (ignoring generation 1), In comparison the A10.2 has a tiny bit left, A10.3 exchanges potential low end extention for greater control up top.
The goal of the upcoming thread is to see if the need for a notch is either eliminated or gretaly diminished with this simple tweak.
I suspect that each driver could be slighly different and Vix’s, wchang, and waxx’es notches are possibly different but right for the drivers/boxes they have.
dave
I really like these boxes Dave. 😁Oops, i misspoke. A CFS not a CGR.
Really confused now ;^)
CGR = Classic Golden Ratio. A close to Golden Rectangle shaped box.
CFS = Compact Floorstander, where the “box” above is stretched and manipulated to reach the floor.
dave
I assume you're going for the biggest MA driver you can get your hands on for the extra dynamics/SPL of a larger driver. I think it might be worth considering the CHR-120 and CHN-110.
I've not heard any of the drivers, just 7ms and Pluvia 7HD, but I've seen quite a bit of praise for the CHR-120 and CHN-110 even though they aren't considered the flagship MA products. They are both larger than the 10, and the CHR-120 is the largest driver from MA.
It depends what music you listen to and how loud, I don't think the 11ms is intended to specalise in bass heavy music, whereas I think the CHR-120 and CHN-110 are designed to take more of a beating and sound good. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure 🙂
I've not heard any of the drivers, just 7ms and Pluvia 7HD, but I've seen quite a bit of praise for the CHR-120 and CHN-110 even though they aren't considered the flagship MA products. They are both larger than the 10, and the CHR-120 is the largest driver from MA.
It depends what music you listen to and how loud, I don't think the 11ms is intended to specalise in bass heavy music, whereas I think the CHR-120 and CHN-110 are designed to take more of a beating and sound good. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure 🙂
These are aimed at bigger boxes and greater bass extention. And much larger boxes.
I have lived with the CHN-110 which besides being very good is dirt cheap (because it has a dirt cheap [but well engineered) stamped basket. Much cheaper than the 1st gen, nice but awkward baskets (like the CHR-120), or the 2nd gen baskets (really nice) as in the Alpair 7/11ms and the Pluvia 7HD. 1, x10, x20 is a decent guess from the little info i have gleaned.
As to the MA lines they are getting somewhat confusing an do not really define the quality anymore. Each driver needs to be considered on its own merit.
dave
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Yes I agree Dave. I was thinking of just using it as a fullrange driver and adding Lower Frequency driver or a subwoofer. I know every driver has its limitations.