Hi,
I've built a pair of Frugel Horn XL with A11MS, a pair of Silbury with MArk Audio A10.3, and I will start building a pair of Blanda+Grönsaker with A7ms (these last will probably be paired with a sub).
I have to say that I really like the FHXL and I'm in love with the Silbury so much that I'm thinking to sell my Klipsch RF82.
So my question is: what do you think I could explore as next build?
Thanks,
Roberto
I've built a pair of Frugel Horn XL with A11MS, a pair of Silbury with MArk Audio A10.3, and I will start building a pair of Blanda+Grönsaker with A7ms (these last will probably be paired with a sub).
I have to say that I really like the FHXL and I'm in love with the Silbury so much that I'm thinking to sell my Klipsch RF82.
So my question is: what do you think I could explore as next build?
Thanks,
Roberto
Can a Blanda + Grönsaker + Tysen2 (with the push-push configuration) be a solution? Aestetically seems a very good match.
I've tilted 5° backwards the front and back panels, 30° the top. Mid-lows speakers placement needs for sure improvements, as well as cabinet dimensions.
The distance between the center of the speakers is 360 mm, so I need to crossover below 240 Hz, but the Blanda + Grönsaker can go down to 70 Hz, so there's a huge range of possibilities.
I've tilted 5° backwards the front and back panels, 30° the top. Mid-lows speakers placement needs for sure improvements, as well as cabinet dimensions.
The distance between the center of the speakers is 360 mm, so I need to crossover below 240 Hz, but the Blanda + Grönsaker can go down to 70 Hz, so there's a huge range of possibilities.
Thanks Dave!
Something like the B&W 800 series.
I could do the notch on 3D, print it and then cut the top following the printed shape. Otherwise my friend has a small CNC, it can be done better there if it fits.
Can I ask to you or Scott to have a Teams/Skype introduction to speaker design on available softwares?
I always liked to build my own things, and I don’t like to build without knowing why I’m doing things.
Something like the B&W 800 series.
I could do the notch on 3D, print it and then cut the top following the printed shape. Otherwise my friend has a small CNC, it can be done better there if it fits.
Can I ask to you or Scott to have a Teams/Skype introduction to speaker design on available softwares?
I always liked to build my own things, and I don’t like to build without knowing why I’m doing things.
Inverting the sloped top I'm able to reach 270 mm speaker to speaker, but I don't know it the placement of the two push-push speakers is optimal or not in the lower cabinet.
I see some issues with that:
- you will loose the mechanical-forces canceling-effect you get by two coaxial push-push speakers;
- you will have no more space for a support for the Blanda+Grönsaker;
- possible interferences with high pressures where part of the Blanda+Grönsaker venting "breathes".
Inverting the sloped top I'm able to reach 270 mm speaker to speaker, \
You cannot move the vertical position of the bass drivers. Zd is critical to the design.
This is the line that is the basis of the woofer part of Tysen V2
https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/SF-W14-ML-TL-191213.pdf
dave
You cannot move the vertical position of the bass drivers. Zd is critical to the design.
Thanks Dave, so I have to stick on this design you posted here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-does-it-get-any-better.364188/#post-6443036 and hope to find four Silver Flute W14rc25 in europe...
Can I horizontally mirror the top slope keeping the same height at the bracing point?
So fron higher then rear?
Thanks GM! The globe has a diameter of 28 cm, as I'm using the big Blanda+Grönsaker.the globe will have an acoustic sphere of 0.61r, so acoustically if 20" dia = 10*0.61 = 6.1+20 = 26.1" acoustical diameter for max calculating ctc
four Silver Flute W14rc25
Good luck, they are, AFAIK, a Madisound house brand.
I shipped 4 to Scott in the UK,mi still have some.
dave
Will they fit well with the Alpair 7MS?
I see the sensitivity of the Alpair is 86 dB/Wm, while the two SF should have 93 dB together.
Do you suggest to biamp (class D for lows, tube SE for highs) with two SF 8 Ohm paralleled, or a single amplification with two SF 4 Ohm in series?
I see the sensitivity of the Alpair is 86 dB/Wm, while the two SF should have 93 dB together.
Do you suggest to biamp (class D for lows, tube SE for highs) with two SF 8 Ohm paralleled, or a single amplification with two SF 4 Ohm in series?
Biamp yes. Then you don’t have to worry about sensitivity.
The W14 comes in 3 different impedances and with 2 you have some measure of being able to jusge sensitivity
2 4Ω in parallel worked right with the 3”ers.
dave
The W14 comes in 3 different impedances and with 2 you have some measure of being able to jusge sensitivity
2 4Ω in parallel worked right with the 3”ers.
dave
I thought it was only two impedances - 4 & 8? Did you or Scott ever model anything with the 8” woofers? Those are still pretty danged affordable.
4, 8, 16Ω for thw W14, at least when i was working on Tysen V2.
I have looked at the 6.5 and 8, i wasn’t excited, i think maybe Scott had a look at the 8”.
I did send him a semi-random set of 4 (modPodged) W14s and his T/S showe dthem almost identical.
dave
I have looked at the 6.5 and 8, i wasn’t excited, i think maybe Scott had a look at the 8”.
I did send him a semi-random set of 4 (modPodged) W14s and his T/S showe dthem almost identical.
dave
Thanks Dave,Biamp yes. Then you don’t have to worry about sensitivity.
I’ll go 8 Ohm bevause I like TPA3116 and on 8 Ohm will give a reasonable power.
Is there any difference going with two SF 4 Ohm un series or two SF 16 Ohm in parallel?
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- Next speaker choice: FHXL, Silbury, Blanda+Grönsaker, then?