im looking for 10uf 25v caps
the nichicon ukz look good but there only 1000h at 85c
where Panasonic are about 3000h at 105c
i have heard that the nichicon's are the better sound quality
but Panasonic looks to have a better lasting life
i also might change theme to 50v if they fit
this is used to replace most caps in arcam alpha 6 there a lot of 100uf caps with different voltages from 25 to 100v i have went nichicon for the 100v so should i just go nichion for all of it?
the nichicon ukz look good but there only 1000h at 85c
where Panasonic are about 3000h at 105c
i have heard that the nichicon's are the better sound quality
but Panasonic looks to have a better lasting life
i also might change theme to 50v if they fit
this is used to replace most caps in arcam alpha 6 there a lot of 100uf caps with different voltages from 25 to 100v i have went nichicon for the 100v so should i just go nichion for all of it?
Do you need to replace the caps? Have they gone dry, puffed up, what seems to be the issue. Also you should obtain a service manual and have a look at schematic. Post it here, then if there really are issues, everyone can chime in and give proper feedback. You should never swap caps without knowing what they do in a circuit.
I hope i didn't come off as rude here, but it's the shortest way to put it as simple and semi visually to the point. 1993 isn't such a distant year for a necessary recap, i honestly wouldn't touch if all is well.
I hope i didn't come off as rude here, but it's the shortest way to put it as simple and semi visually to the point. 1993 isn't such a distant year for a necessary recap, i honestly wouldn't touch if all is well.
its old and i need to learn some soldering skills so I'm sacrificing my alpha 6, it one of 2 that i have spare (just sat boxed away atm) and i have already taken apart the amp and well someone else has been in there and replaced the mosfets on one channel so I'm happy using it as practice and the main caps are a bit nocked so who ever worked on it hit the cap to put a dent in it!
i also have the service manual and old jamicon caps as of the dent in one but im still trying to find non snap in caps! so i thought while i have it apart ill replace all the smaller rubycon caps. with the same or better caps.
i also have the service manual and old jamicon caps as of the dent in one but im still trying to find non snap in caps! so i thought while i have it apart ill replace all the smaller rubycon caps. with the same or better caps.
i was thinking for the main caps
nichicon LLS 1K103MELC there 10000uf 80v there snap in but ill work that out later
nichicon LLS 1K103MELC there 10000uf 80v there snap in but ill work that out later
For a tiny bit more, i would go DNM 10000uf 80V 2T, slit foil cap. Costs very similar as LLS, same footprint (height a little bit more), but it's much better for power supply. As for the the rest, without a schematic, i can't say for sure. In any case you decide with those, FG usually works well in most places i've put them in (this is if you proceed to go blindly about these), and if footprint allows (it should, modern caps usually have slimmer footprint for higher V rating), i'd up the V rating as rayma noted, will last you wee bit longer 🙂
I would not care too much with that diffference. Those data are valid with maximum ripple current and max temperature. If you can keep your caps at 40C, they will last even 100times longer.the nichicon ukz look good but there only 1000h at 85c
where Panasonic are about 3000h at 105c
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ya that's why I'm going to grab a few as you still get the remaining stock on digikey
the stock main caps are 10000uf 50v
im getting a 10000uf 80v. ok to use people say to up the voltage ratting is fine.
or i could go with 63v as i have seen done before. the price is not very different like a pound difference each
both have 10mm spaced snap-in so im going to straighten the legs then it should work.
the stock main caps are 10000uf 50v
im getting a 10000uf 80v. ok to use people say to up the voltage ratting is fine.
or i could go with 63v as i have seen done before. the price is not very different like a pound difference each
both have 10mm spaced snap-in so im going to straighten the legs then it should work.
Unfortunately, I discovered them late and now they are going into oblivion, what a pity.UKZ are EOL. Too bad, they could sound pretty good when electrolytics were needed for coupling.
the ones that im replacing are 100uf 25v
so do i pick
Nichicon UKZ 100uf 25v or Nichicon UFG 100uf 35v
so do i pick
Nichicon UKZ 100uf 25v or Nichicon UFG 100uf 35v
looking at the manual c802 and c801 come under switch mute and are connected to 15v so its on the power side.
so i looked up closest to the old caps Rubicon yx 100uf 25v 85c and that ended up being the PK, PX and YXF and as im going all on nichicon and don't really want odd ones out ill use nichicon UFG 100uf 35v caps they have the same ripple.
or is this a bad idea and sould i just go with like HFE or UPW (they have way high ripple ratings)
so i looked up closest to the old caps Rubicon yx 100uf 25v 85c and that ended up being the PK, PX and YXF and as im going all on nichicon and don't really want odd ones out ill use nichicon UFG 100uf 35v caps they have the same ripple.
or is this a bad idea and sould i just go with like HFE or UPW (they have way high ripple ratings)
Based on my personal comparisons for coupling duty, I recommend the Panasonic FR series. They sound better than all the other special "audio" capacitors. Nichicon KZ would be my second pick.the ones that im replacing are 100uf 25v
so do i pick
Nichicon UKZ 100uf 25v or Nichicon UFG 100uf 35v
How many days do you let them run before forming a judgement?Based on my personal comparisons for coupling duty, I recommend the Panasonic FR series.
The Panasonic FR that I have tried as coupling caps had seen some use as reservoir caps in an amplifier, so they were not new.
The comparison was done using high quality headphones.
The comparison was done using high quality headphones.
well I'm going to order the caps for the amp but i thought ill look in my sub as it hums and it bugs me in the quite parts of music. the caps were jun fu branded and glued in (why glue). as this is like more then 15 years old (mission ms8)
I though i might as well replace it, it needs 4700uf 63v main caps so i picked the Nichicon LLS as they have the size i need.
there are other caps on the PCB branded jun fu but I'm stuck what to pick for them as Nichicon UFG is cheaper or should go long life Nichicon UPX
i have no idea what is signal path or power there's no service manual for it
but there are black caps and orange caps.
so if i replace the black caps with UPX and orange ones with UFG? how does that sound?
I though i might as well replace it, it needs 4700uf 63v main caps so i picked the Nichicon LLS as they have the size i need.
there are other caps on the PCB branded jun fu but I'm stuck what to pick for them as Nichicon UFG is cheaper or should go long life Nichicon UPX
i have no idea what is signal path or power there's no service manual for it
but there are black caps and orange caps.
so if i replace the black caps with UPX and orange ones with UFG? how does that sound?
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