Hello guys, in these days I was creating a BOM to replace all the electrolytic capacitors of the Pioneer SA-606.
Long story short, I've found this amp on the street abandoned, cleaned it, tested it, and I really liked the sound of it, using it as I am writing as my desk amp 😀
I created a BOM of components on Digikey, the problem is, I cannot find a replacement for the bipolar 0.22uF 35V capacitors (C31, C32), the minimum size for bipolar electrolytic capacitor it is 1uF 50V! Could I safely replace it with a bigger size?
I did the same time with the filter capacitors, went from 8000uf 50v to 10'000uf 50V because they were more common:
This is the schematic of the amplifier (taken from the service manual), I highlighted all the capacitors to replace, the C31, and C32 cap are marked in blue!
This is the list of all the capacitors that I took note to replace:
C1,C2 2.2/50 YES
C9,C10,C45,C46 220/6 YES
C23,C24 2.2/50 (Non polarized NP) YES
C31,C32 0.22/35 (NP) (found alternative 1uF 50V bipolar)
C41,C42 22/10 YES
C53,C54,C55,C56 4.7/35 YES
C57,C58 10/16 YES
C62 220/25 YES
C63,C64,C65 100/25 YES
C67,C68 220/50 YES
C69 10/25 YES
C59,C70,C71,C80 10/50 YES
C72 33/25 YES
C73 33/50 YES
C75,C76 8000/50 YES (found alternative 10'000uF 50V)
C77,C78 470/6 YES
C81 22/16 YES
Probably is not needed always, just in the signal path, but I tried to only select capacitors for audio application.
This is the BOM from Digikey:
Digikey
I also needed to replace the lights of the vu-meters, so most likely I will go with something like that:
Ebay
Also, do you know a good contact cleaner available on Digikey? To add in the basket to not pay the shipping fees 🙂
(I need it for cleaning the switches and volume/balance pots)
Long story short, I've found this amp on the street abandoned, cleaned it, tested it, and I really liked the sound of it, using it as I am writing as my desk amp 😀
I created a BOM of components on Digikey, the problem is, I cannot find a replacement for the bipolar 0.22uF 35V capacitors (C31, C32), the minimum size for bipolar electrolytic capacitor it is 1uF 50V! Could I safely replace it with a bigger size?
I did the same time with the filter capacitors, went from 8000uf 50v to 10'000uf 50V because they were more common:
This is the schematic of the amplifier (taken from the service manual), I highlighted all the capacitors to replace, the C31, and C32 cap are marked in blue!
This is the list of all the capacitors that I took note to replace:
C1,C2 2.2/50 YES
C9,C10,C45,C46 220/6 YES
C23,C24 2.2/50 (Non polarized NP) YES
C31,C32 0.22/35 (NP) (found alternative 1uF 50V bipolar)
C41,C42 22/10 YES
C53,C54,C55,C56 4.7/35 YES
C57,C58 10/16 YES
C62 220/25 YES
C63,C64,C65 100/25 YES
C67,C68 220/50 YES
C69 10/25 YES
C59,C70,C71,C80 10/50 YES
C72 33/25 YES
C73 33/50 YES
C75,C76 8000/50 YES (found alternative 10'000uF 50V)
C77,C78 470/6 YES
C81 22/16 YES
Probably is not needed always, just in the signal path, but I tried to only select capacitors for audio application.
This is the BOM from Digikey:
Digikey
I also needed to replace the lights of the vu-meters, so most likely I will go with something like that:
Ebay
Also, do you know a good contact cleaner available on Digikey? To add in the basket to not pay the shipping fees 🙂
(I need it for cleaning the switches and volume/balance pots)
Do you have an example available on Digikey? Because I only found these:
https://www.digikey.it/en/products/detail/kemet/PMR209ME6220M470R30/13176102
But I remember that they would crack after a while (they didn't have a good reputation)
But still would 1uF equivalent cap would suffice?
don’t spend your money for an amp found in dumpster ! And why replace the caps if the amp works?
@asuslover because I want to work on this amplifier, I already need to replace the lights guess I will replace the 40years old caps too.
I really like it on my desk, right now it works 95% but sometimes on of the channel goes out, this could be caused by the switches/pots not really cleaned but maybe also by some components inside but a bit of maintenance never hurts..
(this is easily fixed atm moving the tape recording switch)
I want it to last a tad longer, maybe even another 40years lmao
I really like it on my desk, right now it works 95% but sometimes on of the channel goes out, this could be caused by the switches/pots not really cleaned but maybe also by some components inside but a bit of maintenance never hurts..
(this is easily fixed atm moving the tape recording switch)
I want it to last a tad longer, maybe even another 40years lmao
Wima/Epcos MKS in 5 mm pitch anytime.
Coincidentally I have a large number Epcos 0.22 and 0.47 uF MKS caps in 5 mm pitch. You pay the shipping, I send the parts for 0 euro. Or buy them in bags of 50 pieces if you like.
Coincidentally I have a large number Epcos 0.22 and 0.47 uF MKS caps in 5 mm pitch. You pay the shipping, I send the parts for 0 euro. Or buy them in bags of 50 pieces if you like.
While it saz 0V at the base of Q5, it's actually going to be a few millivolts negative, given the NPN LTP. It is common to see a polar cap used here, and 1uF is just going to move the high-pass from 7.2Hz down to 1.6Hz. Shorting the input cap just causes a bit of DC offset. I assume the 0.22uF cap is pretty small so you may not have room for some of the suggestions above, but a small film cap should be available. 0.22uF is available in ceramic SMT caps which will be small but you'll have to add some wire leads if it doesn't fit across the pads. They may be only 16V but there is ~no DC on this cap so that doesn't matter.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/samsung-electro-mechanics/CL05B224KO5NNNC/3886834
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/samsung-electro-mechanics/CL05B224KO5NNNC/3886834
Thank you for your offer, but probably the shipping will be more expensive than buying the actual product on Digikey because I'm also getting other things 🙂
A stamp is cheap. Anyway make sure to use film caps and not bipolar electrolytic caps. The latter are 2 polar electrolytic caps in series in one casing.
These seems to be coupling capacitors in signal path?
If so then I would go for Wima 1uF film capacitors. Lytics are usually 10uF in places like these.
If so then I would go for Wima 1uF film capacitors. Lytics are usually 10uF in places like these.
The schematic is in post #1 in case you missed it 🙂
MysterHawk, you'll need to replace the output relay too. I won't repeat all as it has been posted in another thread yesterday. In short you'll need to replace it for another type.
I am afraid that contact cleaner won't work out. You probably will need to take the switches apart and clean and reassemble them. The 220 nF caps can be replaced for 0.47 or 1 µF film caps. Also measure D15 and D16 voltages and replace them if necessary. Mount them with enough distance from the PCB.
MysterHawk, you'll need to replace the output relay too. I won't repeat all as it has been posted in another thread yesterday. In short you'll need to replace it for another type.
I am afraid that contact cleaner won't work out. You probably will need to take the switches apart and clean and reassemble them. The 220 nF caps can be replaced for 0.47 or 1 µF film caps. Also measure D15 and D16 voltages and replace them if necessary. Mount them with enough distance from the PCB.
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No, I did not miss it 😉
It only does not read L-IN and R-IN on the connector pins there so I am just guessing.
Looking at the photos from the internet then the up-down s.witches (also tape monitor):
should be similar to these (also from a Pioneer from that era:
Usually the contacts inside are in pretty poor condition:
Fortunately taking these apart for cleaning is quite easy (requires soldering them out though).