hello all,
I saw a Klein MM700 on ebay for $60 USD. The meter is at least 4 years old(the seller also bought it used). Is this a safe purchase? i am looking to "buy it for life" type of situation if it can apply. it costs under $30 to replace the 2 fuses too(unsure if that should be done too)
Would be using this multimeter to build amps from DIYaudio and fix house things.
it looks like the MM700 has more features and is lower cost than a fluke 107. I couldnt find a used 107 thats cheaper.
open to any suggestions as well!
thank you
Peter
I saw a Klein MM700 on ebay for $60 USD. The meter is at least 4 years old(the seller also bought it used). Is this a safe purchase? i am looking to "buy it for life" type of situation if it can apply. it costs under $30 to replace the 2 fuses too(unsure if that should be done too)
Would be using this multimeter to build amps from DIYaudio and fix house things.
it looks like the MM700 has more features and is lower cost than a fluke 107. I couldnt find a used 107 thats cheaper.
open to any suggestions as well!
thank you
Peter
My "lifetime" multimeter is a Fluke 8060. Long discontinued but supported on EEVblog forum and still meets specs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/195824603787?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1rsGPKBleR1e5wHxmlcejCg63&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=195824603787&targetid=1585159290171&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032061&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1585159290171&abcId=9307911&merchantid=8536794&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uM0-RHppExQ91HvZN9os6fAoqZRjEkFIHdSORQhtYHMTstWZfNLtsiBoCMToQAvD_BwE Several audio related features (wide AC bandwidth, dB, Frequency readout. I have others but its the "go to" as a portible instrument,
Check this out before you consider buy used
https://www.ebay.com/p/691172408
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Auto-Ranging-Klein-Tools-MM700
https://www.ebay.com/p/691172408
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Auto-Ranging-Klein-Tools-MM700
whoa never seen this one before. ill check into this more, they have a lot under $100. thanks!
thank you, i am considering new too. trying to see if i am buying the right one is crazy hard for a dmm for me lol
Hard to beat this for a beginner. Just does not measure current, but voltage across a small shunt resistor in the circuit will.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Mu...acitance/dp/B00HE6MIJY/ref=asc_df_B00HE6MIJY/
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Mu...acitance/dp/B00HE6MIJY/ref=asc_df_B00HE6MIJY/
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@rayma i saw that fluke 101 doesnt have fuses on http://testmeterpro.com/fluke-100-series-comparison/
The Fluke 101 does not need fuses, because it does not measure current.
DVM fuses prevent damage to the meter if you try to measure excessive current (typically over 10A).
They are otherwise not in the circuit for the other DVM functions.
That is not a serious deficiency, and I've never needed to use my Fluke DVMs to measure current.
For tube or ss amplifier biasing, you will normally measure the DC voltage across a resistor.
DVM fuses prevent damage to the meter if you try to measure excessive current (typically over 10A).
They are otherwise not in the circuit for the other DVM functions.
That is not a serious deficiency, and I've never needed to use my Fluke DVMs to measure current.
For tube or ss amplifier biasing, you will normally measure the DC voltage across a resistor.
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i see, i wanted to use this around the house too. i have worked around some funny light switches and outlets in the past and wanted to use this to test those in the future. the pen that we had to detect current is gone
A pen detects voltage.
Note to self: don’t worry all people can do all things.
I have had and still have pro Fluke DMMs for work but at home I use my 117 exclusively. Excellent instrument despite (or thanks to ??) the “electricians DMM” label. Handling and size are very good just like the display with backlight. Till today I did not even once take my pro Fluke to measure audio.
Note to self: don’t worry all people can do all things.
I have had and still have pro Fluke DMMs for work but at home I use my 117 exclusively. Excellent instrument despite (or thanks to ??) the “electricians DMM” label. Handling and size are very good just like the display with backlight. Till today I did not even once take my pro Fluke to measure audio.
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That should not be a problem, but always use great care when working around any voltages over 50V.
I still use the Fluke 73 I picked up in the early 1990s. I can still get it calibrated if I feel like it. I see no issues with getting an older (digital) meter as long as it's tested and preferably calibrated.
Tom
Tom
Ah the 73. I have one too but switches become unreliable and the case brittle. Not strange after decades. Very nice DMM. Classic!
Peterinhawaii, please think what will happen when you have the DMM in current mode and then try to measure voltage…..
Peterinhawaii, please think what will happen when you have the DMM in current mode and then try to measure voltage…..
Yeah. The rotary switch has lost its end stop, so it'll rotate the wrong way past off. It still works reliably, though. For lab work I often use the HP34401A that I picked up in the 2008-9 recession for dimes on the dollar (calibrated & tested). The 73 rocks for electrical work around the house, car, and such.
Tom
Tom
Same error. Cultural difference: no end stop is category unreliable here. AFAIK the parts are unavailable since many years.
Fluke produced some fine instruments but why oh why does one need a screwdriver to open the battery compartiment!?
Fluke produced some fine instruments but why oh why does one need a screwdriver to open the battery compartiment!?
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Meh. I think I've replaced the battery twice and the fuse once. Doesn't seem to impact me that I need to get a screwdriver for this.
The switch stops in all the detents but will rotate past off. Yes. It's not perfect but it doesn't need to be for my needs. I use the bench top meters if I want perfection (or at least precision). That's probably an inter-personal difference rather than a cultural one.
Tom
The switch stops in all the detents but will rotate past off. Yes. It's not perfect but it doesn't need to be for my needs. I use the bench top meters if I want perfection (or at least precision). That's probably an inter-personal difference rather than a cultural one.
Tom
Safe all depends what you want to do with that meter?
Most people will only work at CAT I or maaaybe CAT II environment at most.
A quick (but simplified) explanation, this means everything after your fuse box/board from your house.
(not quite exactly that, but as a very brief summary)
But please just search the categories if you're not familiar.
Yet the vast majority will only work on secondary voltages.
Most audio amplifiers will fall under the extra low voltage derivatives.
Also those voltages are all isolated from the mains.
So for that part any multimeter is fine.
I personally have no issue at all to work in a CAT I or CAT II environment with any kind of meter.
Since most multimeters are double insulated anyway, the worst thing that can happen, is that it will give a small explosion when some kind of surge voltage spike or back EMF spike from some kind of appliance will come across.
Just don't leave those meters unattended for hours (especially when you're not home), while being on the mains.
Most important thing of all, be aware of safety and the fact that you work with an older meter.
As for safe as buying and being able to replace parts.
That is always a difficult call.
I have a 15 year old Brymen multimeter myself (forgot the part number, can look it up).
Never replaced one part, just the cables (that a friend of my fried once 🙁 )
But in general I don't care about brands, use whatever floats your boat and fits your budget and needs.
Most people will only work at CAT I or maaaybe CAT II environment at most.
A quick (but simplified) explanation, this means everything after your fuse box/board from your house.
(not quite exactly that, but as a very brief summary)
But please just search the categories if you're not familiar.
Yet the vast majority will only work on secondary voltages.
Most audio amplifiers will fall under the extra low voltage derivatives.
Also those voltages are all isolated from the mains.
So for that part any multimeter is fine.
I personally have no issue at all to work in a CAT I or CAT II environment with any kind of meter.
Since most multimeters are double insulated anyway, the worst thing that can happen, is that it will give a small explosion when some kind of surge voltage spike or back EMF spike from some kind of appliance will come across.
Just don't leave those meters unattended for hours (especially when you're not home), while being on the mains.
Most important thing of all, be aware of safety and the fact that you work with an older meter.
As for safe as buying and being able to replace parts.
That is always a difficult call.
I have a 15 year old Brymen multimeter myself (forgot the part number, can look it up).
Never replaced one part, just the cables (that a friend of my fried once 🙁 )
But in general I don't care about brands, use whatever floats your boat and fits your budget and needs.
I have a Fluke 83 of 32 years old, it was expensive but who cares. 25 years it was calibrated unofficially and still in specs. I have a few others.
And just bought a cheap Lexman, yet to be unpacked.
The old ABB or BBC meters are also very nice.
Sometimes I do adventurous things like putting 4 meters in series to measure 3000 V and that works fine too.
And just bought a cheap Lexman, yet to be unpacked.
The old ABB or BBC meters are also very nice.
Sometimes I do adventurous things like putting 4 meters in series to measure 3000 V and that works fine too.
Again, you won't measure current, rather you will measure voltage at the wall outlet.
Some call house electrical power "current", but it is actually voltage that is present at the outlet
and which is measured by a voltmeter connected to the outlet socket.
Current is proportional to the number of electrons per second that the wall outlet voltage sends to the appliance.
One can measure the current drawn by an appliance, but that is unnecessary in the vast majority of circumstances,
and you were not measuring current with your pen. You were measuring voltage.
Reliable & proven brands only. Fluke is ok, I use Pantec still: a swift wind shield wiper, shivering like a banshee.