A new pair of Silbury speakers: newbie questions

[zintolo]

Hi,

I’m starting this build because I’m a newbie and I would like to ask some simple questions on how to build speaker cabinets.

Today, together with my friend, we did some trials on a junk piece of wood.

Is this correct, or the 45 degree should start from the inner part of the speaker?

Thanks

 

[zintolo]

Another question. For internal points like the bottom of the internal V of this FHL (image taken from the site):

I'm thinking to glue both the inner and the outher of the V vertex, in order to avoid any leakage.
Is it correct? Any better method?

 

[Scottmoose]

Whatever you like; we're not proscriptive here. 😉 But you're absolutely right; it's critical to ensure an air-tight seal -especially at high pressure regions.

 

[zintolo]

Thanks Scott.
What about the 45° behind the speaker, is correct the way it's done in the photos with junk wood?
I did the FHXL with 45° all around the back side of the speaker hole, and here I would do things better.

 

[Scottmoose]

Looks fine to me. It doesn't make all that much differnce; the object is simply to ensure reasonable airflow without major blockages or sources of reflections.

 

[zintolo]

Build in progress!

 

[zintolo]

One question: to fix the speaker, do you usually use wooden screws directly on the wood (with a pre-hole), or these below and steel screws? I have some of the latter that should be M5.

 

[zintolo]

Some photos of the work in progress of the Silbury with the MA10.3

 

[zintolo]

And some others of the FHXL with MA 11ms

 

[zintolo]

I ended up using those threaded inserts to fix speakers on the baffle:

 

[zintolo]

Another upgrade my friend sent me this morning!

 

[zintolo]

 

[mdpaudio]

Those nutserts work great and are better than T nuts. The brass ones should use brass bolts too. If you mix metals there is a galvanic reaction that can weld the bolt to the insert. Much better than just screws into wood as they can be removed and reused without issues of the wood getting torn up.

 

[zintolo]

@mdpaudio those inserts are in galvanized steel, and I will use burnished steel screws because they are black like the speakers and shouldn’t give any galvanic corrosion.

Copper plated screws would have been even nicer, having the same colour of the speaker, but I haven’t found any.

 

[zintolo]

@Scottmoose @planet10

I forgot to ask one thing: I bought the MA10.3 from a guy that used them in open baffle speakers, and I noticed both have a small dent on them:

What could be the cause of that dent?
Is it safe to use them? Is there anything I can do?

Thanks!

 

[planet10]

Not a dent, a crease. All to easy to get, the cones are fairly delicate.

dave

 

[zintolo]

Thanks Dave, will it have any impact on the sound or reliability of the speaker?

 

[planet10]

You may notice a subtle difference, but it will likely get worse as they are used.

I give them away free when i do that to a driver (i have at least 4 A7x to give away with such)

dave

 

[LeifB60]

Hello Dave.
It is not possible to repair when such damage has occurred?
Is it an injury caused by playing too strong? Or without any box?

 

[zintolo]

Bad news, but it's good that I won't notice that now, so during the next weeks I will start enjoying botyh FHXL and Silbury to find differences.