This is a forum filled with a lot of engineers who look at things strictly from a circuit design, specification and measurement standpoint. The notion of 'good for audio' is not going to register because as long as the capacitor meets the requirements of the circuit and is from a reasonably reputable manufacturer, then it is 'good for audio' or 'good for a microwave' or 'good for a television' or whatever other circuit it is a part of. This will be the response you will most likely receive, and it will be valid.
What you most likely will not receive is a type of response along the lines of "Panasonic is good, but you might want to consider Elna Silmic IIs instead because they have a more 'open' sound."
You won't get this for a number of reasons:
What you most likely will not receive is a type of response along the lines of "Panasonic is good, but you might want to consider Elna Silmic IIs instead because they have a more 'open' sound."
You won't get this for a number of reasons:
- Saying that capacitors or any other component sharing identical specifications can 'sound different' from one another will earn you a rather vocal response from some people on this forum and it gets old.
- People who are beyond justifying themselves to these self proclaimed experts and enjoy the hobby know that any good response will be meaningless because everything is system dependent and 100% subjective.
- People who have tinkered long enough know that the only answer is 'it depends' because where you change things in a circuit matters.
Something to keep in mind is that the SU series are bipolar - should you choose to replace them be sure the replacement is also bipolar if the circuit calls for it.
Bipolar artı eksi su serisi hakkında pek bir bilgi bulamadım, araştırdım ve bununla ilgili bir konu açtım.
100 adet 100v 220uf'luk bir çantam var
100 adet 100v 220uf'luk bir çantam var
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Agree, and the takeaway is simply: They will work as well as any other legitimate mainstream brand for audio and other uses. They will not sound different from an equivalent one from another brand and any perceived difference is on you. If it is a positive difference then go right ahead and change them out and enjoy.This is a forum filled with a lot of engineers who look at things strictly from a circuit design, specification and measurement standpoint. The notion of 'good for audio' is not going to register because as long as the capacitor meets the requirements of the circuit and is from a reasonably reputable manufacturer, then it is 'good for audio' or 'good for a microwave' or 'good for a television' or whatever other circuit it is a part of. This will be the response you will most likely receive, and it will be valid.
What you most likely will not receive is a type of response along the lines of "Panasonic is good, but you might want to consider Elna Silmic IIs instead because they have a more 'open' sound."
You won't get this for a number of reasons:
So if your goal is simply to have a functioning piece of equipment, then Panasonic certainly doesn't have a bad reputation in regards to capacitors and you can swap like for like. If you want to know if the capacitor will 'sound good' then that is something only you can decide for yourself, in your own system and with your own ears.
- Saying that capacitors or any other component sharing identical specifications can 'sound different' from one another will earn you a rather vocal response from some people on this forum and it gets old.
- People who are beyond justifying themselves to these self proclaimed experts and enjoy the hobby know that any good response will be meaningless because everything is system dependent and 100% subjective.
- People who have tinkered long enough know that the only answer is 'it depends' because where you change things in a circuit matters.
Pro tip: Usually, the more the replacements cost the better the perceived increase in sound quality.
Hal
Wondered the same thing myself, but everything that I could find had the polarity markings. Could not find anything from Panasonic that showed one way or another.
Hal
Hal
I searched a lot and couldn't find any information. Can it be custom made?Panasonic SU capacitors are Bi-polar but the capacitors in the pictures are clearly polar. The max. voltage in the current SU range is only 50V. So are these 100V SUs fake?
Craig
I found this on ebayWondered the same thing myself, but everything that I could find had the polarity markings. Could not find anything from Panasonic that showed one way or another.
Hal
100v 22uf Panasonic su
https://www.westfloridacomponents.c...ctrolytic+Capacitor+Panasonic®+SU+Series.html
https://www.westfloridacomponents.c...ctrolytic+Capacitor+Panasonic®+SU+Series.html
Maybe they're fakes, with better-than usual marking. I have a good number of fakes bought from a China vendor. one is fake Nichicon (printing font type is obviously wrong), and one is Rubycon (marked with the wrong temperature rating for the part type).
Yes... Ebay. That is what I found but they and the other source could well be counterfeit. Personally, I would want verification from Panasonic or a reliable distributor.
Hal
Hal
I think the tell might be that the part is marked with the series number of a bipolar part, but the polarity markings are still there. The cap is also suspiciously small for a bipolar cap of that value and voltage rating.
I found the manualI think the tell might be that the part is marked with the series number of a bipolar part, but the polarity markings are still there. The cap is also suspiciously small for a bipolar cap of that value and voltage rating.
Attachments
Su series manualPanasonic SU capacitors are Bi-polar but the capacitors in the pictures are clearly polar. The max. voltage in the current SU range is only 50V. So are these 100V SUs fake?
Craig
Attachments
They were likely on E-bay because they were old. Last time buy in 2000. This type of capacitor can degrade if it sits unused for 20+ years. Not always, many times they are quite useable but you do take your chances. OEMs usually will NOT. I’ve bought plenty of old Panasonics and Nichicons surplus over the years and they have always worked. Even as old as 1979 - the only way I could get 470uF/50V axials. Still good as new. I’ve bought old Philips, CDE, and Illinois and had a mess of goo leaking out in the bin after a couple years and had to throw the entire lots out.
Even regular distributors will lower the price on old lots. I ran into 22000uF 50V Panasonics that were on the shelf for 6 years at Digikey, they marked them down accordingly, and I bought up a bunch. Nothin wrong with ‘em. Probably be 20 years before I use them all up, too. I do store all of my components at controlled temps - in the air conditioned portion of the shop rather than up in the rafters where it gets to be 110 or 120 in the summer.
Even regular distributors will lower the price on old lots. I ran into 22000uF 50V Panasonics that were on the shelf for 6 years at Digikey, they marked them down accordingly, and I bought up a bunch. Nothin wrong with ‘em. Probably be 20 years before I use them all up, too. I do store all of my components at controlled temps - in the air conditioned portion of the shop rather than up in the rafters where it gets to be 110 or 120 in the summer.
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