I have a question on this install .
I have a 4 channel DD audio amp 4x100 @4ohm and 160x4@2 ohm
I have 2 6.5” and 2 8” speakers in the door these the speakers in the door are not really for midbass they were designed to play loud between 100hz amd 8khz both speakers pretty much have the same specs .
I was gonna add 2 more speakers (midbass) to the lock panels so I can get some mid bass upfront .
Wondering can I use the 4 channel and bridge 2 of the channels to the 6.5” and the 8” in each door and then use the other 2 channels for the midbass drivers . This way I can set the crossovers how I want them .
Or would it be wiser to get another amp to run the mid bass drivers alone and use the 4 speakers I already have on the 4 channel and not bridge 2 of the channels
I have a 4 channel DD audio amp 4x100 @4ohm and 160x4@2 ohm
I have 2 6.5” and 2 8” speakers in the door these the speakers in the door are not really for midbass they were designed to play loud between 100hz amd 8khz both speakers pretty much have the same specs .
I was gonna add 2 more speakers (midbass) to the lock panels so I can get some mid bass upfront .
Wondering can I use the 4 channel and bridge 2 of the channels to the 6.5” and the 8” in each door and then use the other 2 channels for the midbass drivers . This way I can set the crossovers how I want them .
Or would it be wiser to get another amp to run the mid bass drivers alone and use the 4 speakers I already have on the 4 channel and not bridge 2 of the channels
Stupid auto correct on my phone it was supposed to say in the kick panels .
I’m gonna add some Q logic kick panels to add another 6.5” and tweeter
I’m gonna add some Q logic kick panels to add another 6.5” and tweeter
If this is for the big system you're building, I think you're going to need a far larger speaker for efficient midbass. Think 10 or 12" woofers. I used two Peavey Black Widow 12s in a (non-car) system. They did a great job on an 800w amp. I'd think you'd need something similar to be of any use in a high dB system. In the system that the BWs were in, there was only 4 12s on 1500w for subs (140dB).
If I wanted to add the 6.5” speakers to the system in the kick panels maybe not so much for midbass but for the purpose of hearing the front stage over the bass would bridging the amp be ok or would you recommend another amp for the 6.5” .
And I will also look into buying some 10” or 12” for the midbass
And I will also look into buying some 10” or 12” for the midbass
The 6.5" speakers would only be useful at low to moderate volume unless they could handle very high power and were very efficient. Some feel that kickpanel speakers were good for staging but I have no experience with them for that purpose. I generally wanted the speakers higher (dash level). Others should have opinions on this.
if you use a seperate amp for them mid bass speakers ya can set the GAIN to make em come alive. Might be best.
Still working in this setup it’s coming along .
I have a 4 channel amp that is 4x75 watts rms
Max current draw is 40 amps .
The power plug that comes with the amp from the manufacturer had 2 -18 gauge wires coming out for power and 2 -18 gauge grounds .
Wondering what size power wire do I need to run to this amp the length of the power wire is less than 2’ ?
There is another plug for the speaker wires coming out of the amp when connecting speaker wires to the plug should I use butt connectors or solder the connections and use heat shrink
I have a 4 channel amp that is 4x75 watts rms
Max current draw is 40 amps .
The power plug that comes with the amp from the manufacturer had 2 -18 gauge wires coming out for power and 2 -18 gauge grounds .
Wondering what size power wire do I need to run to this amp the length of the power wire is less than 2’ ?
There is another plug for the speaker wires coming out of the amp when connecting speaker wires to the plug should I use butt connectors or solder the connections and use heat shrink
Two 18g wires aren't good for more than about 10 amps of current if you use the 300cm/amp of current. It may work since the amp won't draw a constant 40 amps of current but it may overheat.
Either option for the speaker wires will work if done correctly. The solder and heatshrink may look better.
Either option for the speaker wires will work if done correctly. The solder and heatshrink may look better.
I have noticed over decades of amplifier installs that "max current draw" for the most part on the consumers level was represented by that NUMBER there on that FUSE thingy. THUS in the consumers mind, it says 30 amps on the fuse so thats what the amp/wire/fuse combo will use/represent. WELL...... I have personally witnessed "30 amp" amplifiers over tax the metal/glass fuses to the point the solder melted out of them and caused a HEAT fault. Later amps got so overblown even huge circuit breakers would suffer defeat... need replacement SO.... ANL WAFER FUSES...LOL.... That situation in AUTOSOUND kinda resulted in the FAT *** POWER WIRE mentality and WAYYYYYYY too HUGE MAIN fusing/routing to the amplifiers. TODAY I see 0-1 gauge wire as a NORM in many a amplifier products and for good reason as theres a deceptive nature to them FUSE NUMBERS. I have seen (2) 40 amp fuses PASS well over 120 amps of current on the clamp meter on TEST CONDITIONS. Once I actually got to watching THEM numbers... I was like.... man.... OK.... 40 amp fuses can pass 120 amps of current.... NOW I GET IT.... From then on I got the OVERDONE main power wire thing in car audio. I remember in the OLDEN DAYS, like Perry there says, ya would use a higher gauge wire because of HEAT issues... stuff would heat up and cause problems. Its what started it all LONG ago.... Ya need a BIGGER WIRE to carry the WEIGHT.... what are you... BLASTING this thing?...... yeah...
Sounds like a decent 8 GA MAIN power wire and perhaps a 80 amp fuse at the BATTERY should be PLENTY BUT remember, FUSES are FIRE protection primarily, not AMP protection. So long as you are not abusing the system, and your EARS, for extended periods, you should be ok. Good Luck in INSTALLING!!!! Lovely.
Nice to see ya still sucking wind Perry. I been studying your Repair creation.... I brought an AM-3 Audiomobile Rack system back to life after over 30 years sitting in a closet... I accidently melted a plastic part in the EQ section like you said NOT to do/be careful of.... I learn by falling down I hate to think..... Then I get back up. LEARNING here. Props to you, Perry B.... ALOHA!
Sounds like a decent 8 GA MAIN power wire and perhaps a 80 amp fuse at the BATTERY should be PLENTY BUT remember, FUSES are FIRE protection primarily, not AMP protection. So long as you are not abusing the system, and your EARS, for extended periods, you should be ok. Good Luck in INSTALLING!!!! Lovely.
Nice to see ya still sucking wind Perry. I been studying your Repair creation.... I brought an AM-3 Audiomobile Rack system back to life after over 30 years sitting in a closet... I accidently melted a plastic part in the EQ section like you said NOT to do/be careful of.... I learn by falling down I hate to think..... Then I get back up. LEARNING here. Props to you, Perry B.... ALOHA!
MIDBASS in a CAR... Ahhhhhhhhhhhh.... I MISS them good ol 6x9 days... As THESE days go a SOLID 8 inch for midbass in a car environment and as subs go.... SCIENCE says ya get the MOST SOUND INSIDE the car... using 10 inch woofers. ALPINE figured that one out using their fancy science.... WELL.... They might be right about the sound INSIDE the car... If you want to be HEARD?.... 15's comes to mind.... HAVE FUN!!!! Then do it all over again. How its DONE!!!! ALOHA BDBD/2023
Perry,
I guess I worded my last reply wrong .
I’m wondering what size power wire I would need to run to the amps power and ground wires the connection to the battery is less then 2 feet .
The 2 18 gauge power and ground wires coming out of the amp is from the factory as seen in the pic
I just need to extend them a lil so I can hook them up to the battery so wondering if 12 gauge is sufficient or would I need larger wire
I guess I worded my last reply wrong .
I’m wondering what size power wire I would need to run to the amps power and ground wires the connection to the battery is less then 2 feet .
The 2 18 gauge power and ground wires coming out of the amp is from the factory as seen in the pic
I just need to extend them a lil so I can hook them up to the battery so wondering if 12 gauge is sufficient or would I need larger wire
Attachments
Yeah, such a short run... 2 feet.... Check to see if the wire gets HOT under heavy load BUT.... 12 ga will work but as I mentioned... In autosound larger main power wire than needed is a given.
NJOY!!! BDBD/2023
NJOY!!! BDBD/2023
So you have one 4 channel amp? correct?
These speakers, what are they? It sounds like they are pro audio speakers or at least based on pro audio type speakers with a RMS rating of probably 200-250 watts each?
How many ohms are they rated at?
Will there be any tweeters used?
How about subs?
What kind of vehicle will this system be going into?
Things that need to be considered are for 1: The car. Big car? Small car? Two door? Four door? 2: How efficient are those speakers? If they are pro audio type speakers unless your goal is to be loud as hell I wouldn't use both the 6-1/2" and the 8" in the same door much less with another 6-1/2" mid-bass speaker in the kick panel. Personally I would decide which speakers I liked better between the 6-1/2" and the 8" and pick one and put it in the kick panel. I would then get maybe a long throw 6x9" for mid-bass and put it in the door. Here is a good choice.
https://www.cdtaudio.com/6x9/es0690gold.php
or
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/subwoofers/hd690cf.php
or if you can't fit a 6x9
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/subwoofers/hdm6.php
I would not put the mid-base in the kick panel because to get any base out of it you will need air volume behind it so that goes in the door. Then I might consider something like what I just put in my new system that would go in higher up in the door.
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/unity-drivers/unity8plus.php
These are very good wide band drivers that don't take a lot to drive and sound great. I happen to like the CDT drivers but there are plenty of others that you can use.
In this case you could drive a 4ohm 6x9" along with the CDT unity drivers which are also 4ohm together on one channel at 160 watts with a passive x-over and run the other driver in the kick with the remaining channel using the built in active x-over in the amplifier.. Any subs would need their own amp. This would be a very sufficient and reliable system that you can run loud and not tax you cars electrical system. Of course any system that I would put in would be getting a full sound deadening treatment as well.
To answer your other questions crimp connectors are fine but you can also solider and heat shrink. One is not better then the other as long as the connections are made properly. It's a personal choice.
To extend the power leads an additional 2' just use wire that is the same gage as what is used in the amps pig tail or larger. If it is 2 18AWG wires then use 2 18AWG wires to extend the reach but 12AWG would work too. Just make sure to put a fuse at the battery even if there is a fuse in the amp it doesn't matter you still need one at the battery.
Anyways that is my advise. If you haven't seen my build thread for my tundra yet check it out here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/my-tundra-is-getting-a-new-system.391922/