There may be an intermittently shorted inductor. While idling, twist/push/pull on the inductors to see if there is a change in idle current.
I swap inductors but the problem remains. The 4.7 ohm resistor and one of caps will start heating up .
I can't find the service manual for that amp. What driver IC are they using in it (I may have something similar)?
Which components on the diagram correspond to the components that you referred to that are heating?
Were the replacement caps the exact same voltage and capacitance as the original parts?
Were the replacement caps the exact same voltage and capacitance as the original parts?
Were the replacement caps the exact same voltage and capacitance as the original parts?
On the output side of L201 do you see more noise than you do on the output terminals of the inductors in the other channels?
On the output side of L201 do you see more noise than you do on the output terminals of the inductors in the other channels?
On the output side of L201 do you see more noise than you do on the output terminals of the inductors in the other channels?
I am not able to compare the noise because it is pulsing and now staying in protect most of the time.
Is there a way to disable that channel without removing these SMD outputs ?
Is there a way to disable that channel without removing these SMD outputs ?
Why is it going into protect? Excessive current? DC offset?
The ICs with on-board over-current protection sometimes refuse to power up without the outputs in the circuit. The low-side can be defeated but that requires adding a jumper on the IC and the IC isn't available if there is a mistake.
The ICs with on-board over-current protection sometimes refuse to power up without the outputs in the circuit. The low-side can be defeated but that requires adding a jumper on the IC and the IC isn't available if there is a mistake.
What happened between the time it was heating the cap/resistor and now that it won't power up?
Did an output fail?
Did an output fail?