HiVi B3S + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T (or Fountek 88EX/89EX?)
Vifa XT25BG60-04 + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
HiVi RT1C-A + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
I figure with the HiVi B3S I can do a very simple x-over.
I would have to attenuate the XT25 or RT1C and RS52 a lot.
The B3S and 22W all I have to do is cap and coil at about 400 Hz and the Baffle step is taken care of.
I don't like dome tweeter or a lot of highs.
Except ribbons have okay highs I've noticed. And XT25 has zero "harshness" which "audiophiles" describe as dark? 😕
I describe it as functioning how it should for a specific purpose. I'm not trying to show off my high end shrill sound.
RT1C has excellent build quality.
XT25 is also good and ampslab has an x-over/design I can copy, woofer is different, but close enough for me.
RS52 come with metal grill and this is what I don't like building when I make speakers. The metal grill. Also metal (hex) grills look best to me.
https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-XT25BG60-04-1-Dual-Ring-Radiator-Tweeter-264-1012
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-RS52AN-8-2-Reference-Aluminum-Dome-Midrange-285-020
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...evelator-22w/8857t-00-8-woofer-aluminum-cone/
https://ampslab.com/falcon.htmhttps://ampslab.com/blog/2016/10/04/dayton-rs52an/https://ampslab.com/blog/2017/10/02/hivi-rt1c/
https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-B3S-3-Shielded-Aluminum-Driver-Square-Frame-297-427
I already have a 3-way using:
Audiopur (I think) ribbon
Dayton RS52an-8
Dayton RS270S-8
It sounds pretty good. I copied Zaphs x-over with a few tweets:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZDT3.5.html
Music is good (via TV). Voices on TV are okay, but not great.
BTW I listened to Usher 9950 and 8948a off of my computer I bought from Joe D himself, very poor setup though and Bose 301.
The 301 sounded better to me personally (lol?). That's why I think I might like just 3 inch with SS 22W. Fountek EX88 or EX89 would be my first choice in 3 inch drivers though. I can always change it later, I guess. Fountek drivers seem to be scarce in the US. I try to build speakers for longevity, build quality and easy of driver replacement, also. I mount, finish and construct my speakers in my own way, if it matters.
Vifa XT25BG60-04 + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
HiVi RT1C-A + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
I figure with the HiVi B3S I can do a very simple x-over.
I would have to attenuate the XT25 or RT1C and RS52 a lot.
The B3S and 22W all I have to do is cap and coil at about 400 Hz and the Baffle step is taken care of.
I don't like dome tweeter or a lot of highs.
Except ribbons have okay highs I've noticed. And XT25 has zero "harshness" which "audiophiles" describe as dark? 😕
I describe it as functioning how it should for a specific purpose. I'm not trying to show off my high end shrill sound.
RT1C has excellent build quality.
XT25 is also good and ampslab has an x-over/design I can copy, woofer is different, but close enough for me.
RS52 come with metal grill and this is what I don't like building when I make speakers. The metal grill. Also metal (hex) grills look best to me.
https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-XT25BG60-04-1-Dual-Ring-Radiator-Tweeter-264-1012
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-RS52AN-8-2-Reference-Aluminum-Dome-Midrange-285-020
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...evelator-22w/8857t-00-8-woofer-aluminum-cone/
https://ampslab.com/falcon.htmhttps://ampslab.com/blog/2016/10/04/dayton-rs52an/https://ampslab.com/blog/2017/10/02/hivi-rt1c/
https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-B3S-3-Shielded-Aluminum-Driver-Square-Frame-297-427
I already have a 3-way using:
Audiopur (I think) ribbon
Dayton RS52an-8
Dayton RS270S-8
It sounds pretty good. I copied Zaphs x-over with a few tweets:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZDT3.5.html
Music is good (via TV). Voices on TV are okay, but not great.
BTW I listened to Usher 9950 and 8948a off of my computer I bought from Joe D himself, very poor setup though and Bose 301.
The 301 sounded better to me personally (lol?). That's why I think I might like just 3 inch with SS 22W. Fountek EX88 or EX89 would be my first choice in 3 inch drivers though. I can always change it later, I guess. Fountek drivers seem to be scarce in the US. I try to build speakers for longevity, build quality and easy of driver replacement, also. I mount, finish and construct my speakers in my own way, if it matters.
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Absolutely. It can be difficult getting things right, sometimes making simple adjustments will only get it sounding either too much or not enough and that's where it ends for some.has zero "harshness" which "audiophiles" describe as dark? 😕
I describe it as functioning how it should for a specific purpose. I'm not trying to show off my high end shrill sound.
Well as usual my post is confusing. I should have left out the part you quoted. Somewhat rude. But I do feel audiophiles sometimes build "show-off" sounding speakers, or maybe they just like a lot of highs and midrange. I inherited my love of bass from my father. But I usually listen to my computer or TV at very low volumes. I do like the sound of AMT drivers though. I feel AMT tweeter is very fast sounding. XT25 I'm not sure I can complain about the speed. Mid-dome also has strong motor and low moving mass. But I'm not sure the tweeter/dome combo has any major advantages over a 3" (~30 cm sd) fullrange. And 3 inch can be crossed over much more easily (and at 6 db/octave) at the same x-over frequency as the mid-dome. Also it requires no resistors in the design. Sometimes people underestimate the advantage of simplicity and I'm wondering if this is one of those times. When choosing a driver I mostly confuse on MMS, BL, sd, qts, then cone material, and other materials, craftsmanship, does it have good protection of the driver, sound is pretty close to last. Some one told me you can't tell the difference in the speakers I built and TV speakers and I thought: that's ridiculous". Some times I'll be listing to my speakers for 20 minutes thinking: wow, these sound great, then realize I've been listing to my TV speakers for the past 20 minutes.
Which design is best for close to wall and TV setup?
HiVi B3S + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T (or Fountek 88EX/89EX?)
Vifa XT25BG60-04 + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
HiVi RT1C-A + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
HiVi B3S + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T (or Fountek 88EX/89EX?)
Vifa XT25BG60-04 + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
HiVi RT1C-A + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
Which design is best for close to wall and TV setup?
HiVi RT1C-A + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
My main issue with the RS52 combos is that I have to do a lot of attenuation, more than most people, to suit my personal taste.
Right now I have an L-Pad I'm using for the audiopur ribbon tweeter and it is maxed out.
Also I have an L-pad for the RS52.
Woofer in the pic is a Dayton RS270S-08.
The speaker sounds pretty good to me. Few little things I don't like.
Peerless TC9FD18-08 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T (or Fountek 88EX/89EX?)
Vifa XT25BG60-04 + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857THiVi RT1C-A + Dayton RS52AN-8 + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T
My main issue with the RS52 combos is that I have to do a lot of attenuation, more than most people, to suit my personal taste.
Right now I have an L-Pad I'm using for the audiopur ribbon tweeter and it is maxed out.
Also I have an L-pad for the RS52.
Woofer in the pic is a Dayton RS270S-08.
The speaker sounds pretty good to me. Few little things I don't like.
Attachments
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Why not one of the 3.5 inchers as mid?
You could lower your cross to the woofer below the boundary involvement, with
little need to pad down.
You could lower your cross to the woofer below the boundary involvement, with
little need to pad down.
If you have to pad down the tw and the dome mid it means that the woofer is too much! It really is gigantic in comparison... I wouldn't go over 7" in diameter... And that applies to every type of speaker at home.
Going smaller allows for 87-88 dB depending on woofer's choice, etc. 🙄
Going smaller allows for 87-88 dB depending on woofer's choice, etc. 🙄
There will be 3-6db less than spec spl from the woofer, as it is unlikely to be used in an infinite baffle(as per testing).
I recently tried the RS 52AN -8 for a fun and simple build. I like open baffle from about 500 hertz and down, so I built an L shaped baffle what I figured would have enough size to support 400 Hz, and kept down sizing until I could hear it thinning out. I chose an inexpensive metal dome tweeter with this, and pared the crossover down to a single cap and coil for a deep dip around 4500 hertz, maybe 6db or so.
This "head unit" is passive, and actively crossed to a midbass coupler 4th order.
It checks my boxes for low distortion, simple build, sealed upper, and dipole lower frequencies, and sweet sound.
A little crude for looks, but then so am I.
This "head unit" is passive, and actively crossed to a midbass coupler 4th order.
It checks my boxes for low distortion, simple build, sealed upper, and dipole lower frequencies, and sweet sound.
A little crude for looks, but then so am I.
Attachments
Why not one of the 3.5 inchers as mid?
You could lower your cross to the woofer below the boundary involvement, with
little need to pad down.
I was thinking that, but:
1) I don't have a good mid.
2) very few mids come with a metal grill. Fountek is not available anymore, many of them.
3) not many mids are "mid" specific. They try to be "mid-woofers". Fountek should be a great mid, but some have just okay build quality,
4) the build quality of many drivers is subpar and I usually don't know this until I examine them in my hand.
5) 3-4 inch mids require another chamber, means more building and volume in the cabinet.
Vifa NE123-08 looks good and so do 2 Tectonic TEBM46C20N-4B BMR
drivers for Philharmonic Audio BMR Tower.
BMR seems to have a lot of distortion below 1 KHz though, even using 2 drivers.
I guess if I had the Vifa NE123-08 in hand I would use it. I'm going to go do some listening and building soon.
I also have an SB Acoustics sb15mfc30-8 woofer with 80 cm^2.
SB Acoustics build quality is awesome, but the performance is not there. You can see it in the data and even specs. I'm not sure why it's not pointed out, but they do still sound very descent, but not even as good as cheap Dayton, IMHO. Well at least the woofers I have. They sound slow and without microdetail like a Silver Flute woofer. SB Acoustics sounds kind of the opposite of a Fountek or ScanSpeak Illuminator. Check CSD / pulse response more and distortion less, maybe? But I'm not sure, that's why I ask.
No, don't say that. I like to go for simple also. Often times less is more. People build a 4-way or 5-way, then say 3-way sounds better. I would say even 2-way might sounds better, I'll go see. I do like the XT25 or a ribbon, though. 2-way with 3-4 mid and 8 inch woofer is a great combo (I don't really miss the highs ever) and ribbon/AMT, 2-3" dome and 8" woofer is also a great combo. But I'm the kind of person that could listen to a 10" subwoofer by itself and think it sounds good.A little crude for looks, but then so am I.
Also what is boundary involvement?Why not one of the 3.5 inchers as mid?
You could lower your cross to the woofer below the boundary involvement, with
little need to pad down.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- HiVi B3S + ScanSpeak 22W/8857T or XT25BG60-04 (or HiVi RT1C-A?) + Dayton RS52AN-8 + SS 22W