What are the advantages of a bench top multimeter?

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#2
Often a benchtop multimeter has an option to connect four-point "Kelvin" probes when measuring small resistances. These meters also generally include a zero offset knob, so with two point resistance measurements you can null out the probe and lead resistance. They also measure much lower currents than handheld meters, as a rule. And true RMS measurements, at reasonably high bandwidths, are often available.
 
#4
Sometimes, sometimes not. You have to consider each individual model.
Handheld with a built-in prop is often more convenient, but having both
styles is best.

Cheap brands, even with all the bells and whistles, usually have inferior
accuracy and bandwidth, which are expensive to design in.
For casual use almost anything will work, but may not last very long.
 
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#6
 
#7
What is it your existing hand held meter does not do for you? What are your needs in general? If you are making little battery operated projects or servicing guitar amps, the need to be able to measure +5.0633498 volts is not likely to come up.
 
#8
The build guide for the BA-3 suggested that having a few meters on hand would be helpful. I like cool gear if I can find it used for a good price, especially if it enables capabilities that I may want in the future, even if I don't have need of them now. So I thought, there are several bench top meters under $100 locally, maybe I'll pick on up.
 
#9
Those meters are all very old, 40-50 years. Maybe if there is a recent cal sticker,
but nothing lasts forever. Even the LCD displays can go bad in older units.
Of those, at least the Radio Shack is cheaper, maybe it hasn't been used much.
I like Fluke, but any that old can be a real crap shoot.
 
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#10
More digits, lower noise floor, higher bandwidth (on the AC voltage), Kelvin sensing of resistance, GPIB interface for automation.

I use my HP 34401A bench top meters daily and have used them for automated testing using their GPIB/HPIB ports and a Prologix adapter.

Most handheld meters aren't able to measure mV AC or uV DC. I use the bench top meters quite a bit for that.

I still hang onto my handheld Fluke 73. It's handy for car repairs and such where I a) don't need the precision and b) don't want to drag an extension cord around.

Tom
 
#13
I have 2 Fluke 8050a's, one 8060a, one 8506a one 8922a for example. They all meet spec even though they are all from the previous millennia. For a bench meter age is not necessarily bad, since it will be more stable over time. Eventuually they do break down but not quickly.

For scopes there are several very cost effective new options. Bench meters less so for new.
 
#14
1audio said:
I have 2 Fluke 8050a's, one 8060a, one 8506a one 8922a for example. They all meet spec even though they are all from the previous millennia. For a bench meter age is not necessarily bad, since it will be more stable over time. Eventuually they do break down but not quickly.

For scopes there are several very cost effective new options. Bench meters less so for new.
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I'm going to assume you know what you're talking about since you have a bunch of nice things 😛

For someone who doesn't really know what he needs yet, but likes toys and knows he will benefit from having more and better tools in the coming days/weeks/months, is there anything you would suggest I seek out or avoid?
 
#16
NareshBrd said:
IF you are doing full time work, go for the best you can afford.
For DIY work, mid to lower end is fine.
Depends on your budget and experience level.
And of course, how much space you have to keep all these.
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DIY, experience level low but rising fast, budget is cheap but stretchable as needed 😉 Plenty of space.

What sorts of things do I get in a "high-end" device vs a "mid to lower end" device? Precision? Features? I'm specifically trying to figure out if there is some feature that would be really useful if only I spent another $100.
 
#17
Fluke 8010A, 8050A, and Keithley 2002 bench top DMM. The 2002 is the newest, by far the most expensive (it was new when I got it) and the most accurate.

I have a mix of new and vintage test equipment, these bench meters have outlasted at least 3 modern handhelds.

Look for obvious signs of abuse, bring a few accurate resistors and a fresh dry cell that you have measured with another meter if you want to check things. Me I just think "me want, me buy" and that strategy has worked well for 4 decades or so. I am a bit careful, on eBay I buy from brokers I have dealt with before. (Just bought an HP6612B programmable supply for example) At hamfests I buy from guys who are obvious EE at local concerns and can give me a bit of history as well as an assessment of the item I am interested in. The informative, friendly, helpful guys get my money.

Most of my test equipment is 15 - 25 year old vintage HP/Agilent/Tek/Amber - it all works well.

I like HP and Keithley gear of a certain vintage, but could as easily buy newer or new within financial reason.
 
#18
SoaDMTGguy said:
DIY, experience level low but rising fast, budget is cheap but stretchable as needed 😉 Plenty of space.

What sorts of things do I get in a "high-end" device vs a "mid to lower end" device? Precision? Features? I'm specifically trying to figure out if there is some feature that would be really useful if only I spent another $100.
Click to expand...

Precision, resolution, ruggedness. (More accident proof)
Better true RMS conversion, maybe bandwidth to and beyond 20kHz
Worthwhile to have 4 wire resistance measurement if you use low value resistors, something with very good protection circuitry.
 
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