Hello everyone 
Sometimes 1 of my concertos , did't immediately play at full volume. Only just a little, often crackling sound came out. But after a few minutes, that one concerto then started to play at full volume.
So i thought maybe it could be the bad contacts of the crossover.
So I cleaned the crossover.
When I reassembled the crossover, no sound came out anymore at all...
So I took the crossover from the other concerto, and I placed it in the first concerto.
But the concerto didn't want to play anymore with this ‘new’ crossover either.
So I placed the crossover back in the other concerto again.
But, now that other concerto didn't want to play anymore either...
Both concertos are dead now...
What could I have done wrong?
I first cleaned the crossover-contacts with IPA (Isopropanol). Also the crossover 'holder'.
Then I sprayed a little Griffon contact spray on the crossover-contacts and the crossover-holder.
Perhaps this can have caused a short circuit?
What do I do now ???
Sometimes 1 of my concertos , did't immediately play at full volume. Only just a little, often crackling sound came out. But after a few minutes, that one concerto then started to play at full volume.
So i thought maybe it could be the bad contacts of the crossover.
So I cleaned the crossover.
When I reassembled the crossover, no sound came out anymore at all...
So I took the crossover from the other concerto, and I placed it in the first concerto.
But the concerto didn't want to play anymore with this ‘new’ crossover either.
So I placed the crossover back in the other concerto again.
But, now that other concerto didn't want to play anymore either...
Both concertos are dead now...What could I have done wrong?
I first cleaned the crossover-contacts with IPA (Isopropanol). Also the crossover 'holder'.
Then I sprayed a little Griffon contact spray on the crossover-contacts and the crossover-holder.
Perhaps this can have caused a short circuit?
What do I do now ???
I don’t think so, but it is something i never used, always bypassing them. They are not great.
dave
dave
Check the voice coils for continuity using a DMM, if no continuity then may have fried voice coils or the tinsel lead attachments from speaker tabs to voice coil may have broken.
I slowly push on the woofer making sure evenly pressing in.
Back and forth, if you feel a "scraping", then the woof is done.
Back and forth, if you feel a "scraping", then the woof is done.
From Eric's description, the drivers work OK.
We are looking at tarnished connectors, broken wiring or cracked tracks on the crossover pcb - or so it would seem.
We are looking at tarnished connectors, broken wiring or cracked tracks on the crossover pcb - or so it would seem.
Eric, I see reports that the edge connector contacts become corroded. Perhaps yours are beyond rescuing with the likes of IPA.
Have you considered getting rid of the end connectors and hard wiring the crossover boards?
Have you considered getting rid of the end connectors and hard wiring the crossover boards?
Do you mean that the contacts can be damaged by using the ipa?
I still don't understand the connection between the use of ipa and the failure of the CO.
I then put the other CO in the connector and for what reason did it also break? Because I think it can be assumed that both COs are now broken?
Another question is: which part of the CO can break? Because I only see coils and capacitors? No fuse anywhere..
And thank you for helping me , Galu and other members too
I still don't understand the connection between the use of ipa and the failure of the CO.
I then put the other CO in the connector and for what reason did it also break? Because I think it can be assumed that both COs are now broken?
Another question is: which part of the CO can break? Because I only see coils and capacitors? No fuse anywhere..
And thank you for helping me , Galu and other members too
In any case, it looks like I will have to buy 2 new COs. But I'm a little worried that the CO could break again when fitted..
Maybe it's better to blow out the connector with high pressure first, to make sure the connector is completely dry (so no more short circuits are possible).
Maybe it's better to blow out the connector with high pressure first, to make sure the connector is completely dry (so no more short circuits are possible).
SP1 = Speaker Concerto 1
CO1 = crossover of speaker concerto 1
SP2 = speaker Concerto 2
CO2 = crossover of speaker concerto 2
This is what I dit exactly :
First I cleaned the contacts of the circuit board from CO1 with a toothbrush with IPA. I did the same with the Edge connector.
Then I sprayed Griffon contact spray on the contacts of the circuit board and in the edge connector. I then put CO1 back into speaker SP1.
Result :
SP1 didn't want to play anymore.
Then I extracted CO2 from SP2.
And I put CO2 in SP1.
Result : SP1 still doens't play.
So I put CO2 back into SP2.
But then SP2 would play anymore.
But I did not clean the contacts of CO2.
I have just put CO2 back into SP2.
Maybe that's a little clearer ...
I hate myself for what I did... Only I don't understand what I've done wrong.
I have the Concerto since I was a teenager and I'm now 62 ... and still love their sound.
Meanwhile , I can start my search for 2 other Dn12's (SP1004)...
Or maybe try to repair them first , once I know which parts are broken.
CO1 = crossover of speaker concerto 1
SP2 = speaker Concerto 2
CO2 = crossover of speaker concerto 2
This is what I dit exactly :
First I cleaned the contacts of the circuit board from CO1 with a toothbrush with IPA. I did the same with the Edge connector.
Then I sprayed Griffon contact spray on the contacts of the circuit board and in the edge connector. I then put CO1 back into speaker SP1.
Result :
SP1 didn't want to play anymore.
Then I extracted CO2 from SP2.
And I put CO2 in SP1.
Result : SP1 still doens't play.
So I put CO2 back into SP2.
But then SP2 would play anymore.
But I did not clean the contacts of CO2.
I have just put CO2 back into SP2.
Maybe that's a little clearer ...
I hate myself for what I did... Only I don't understand what I've done wrong.
I have the Concerto since I was a teenager and I'm now 62 ... and still love their sound.
Meanwhile , I can start my search for 2 other Dn12's (SP1004)...
Or maybe try to repair them first , once I know which parts are broken.
Have you any other speakers you could try, I'm wondering if it could be the amplifier? Also, have you a multimeter?
Yes you need a DMM for such simple troubleshooting/measuring as it is a 1 minute job to measure and to diagnose. About the same time it costs to write a post 🙂
Please throw the contact spray away, it has no use in audio.
Please throw the contact spray away, it has no use in audio.
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Yes I have tryed with another speaker. The amplifier still works. I also have a multimeter.
Often I read about cleaning contacts… also on this site. that’s why I’ve tryed this out.
Reading won't measure the resistance/continuity. Measuring will confirm the error, the necessity for cleaning and the effect of the cleaning. In fact every action with contacts should be followed with confirmation just to check things are (back) as they should be. So the DMM should have been there from the moment you started working on the speakers. I am not familiar with these loudspeakers but with old/oxidized stuff one can use a new unused SOFT tooth brush to clean contacts and this should work out OK.
The thread title is probably wrong. The speakers are likely not dead, they probably suffer from bad contacts both due to age and human intervention. The first action (please see the first reactions after your first post) when having speaker issues is to conform the units themselves measure around 4 ... 8 Ohm. Then a sigh of relief when they do and a coffee while repeating the mantra "there is no real problem", "there is no real problem" etc. Then further diagnosing what went wrong like measuring the wiring coming from the crossover filters to the units etc.
Tip: when disassembling stuff with many similar or outright identical connectors please make a picture beforehand for correct re-assembly. This may look trivial but I solved many an error as some simply assemble stuff incorrectly as some rely on assumptions (which, as we learned, are the mother of f*****s).
And as usual the requester gives as little information as possible so the people helping out must loose more time than necessary to pull out information but a picture .... says more than 1000 ....
The thread title is probably wrong. The speakers are likely not dead, they probably suffer from bad contacts both due to age and human intervention. The first action (please see the first reactions after your first post) when having speaker issues is to conform the units themselves measure around 4 ... 8 Ohm. Then a sigh of relief when they do and a coffee while repeating the mantra "there is no real problem", "there is no real problem" etc. Then further diagnosing what went wrong like measuring the wiring coming from the crossover filters to the units etc.
Tip: when disassembling stuff with many similar or outright identical connectors please make a picture beforehand for correct re-assembly. This may look trivial but I solved many an error as some simply assemble stuff incorrectly as some rely on assumptions (which, as we learned, are the mother of f*****s).
And as usual the requester gives as little information as possible so the people helping out must loose more time than necessary to pull out information but a picture .... says more than 1000 ....
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Eric, I didn't say that the contacts could be damaged by IPA - please read my post more carefully.
My guess is that the contacts inside the edge connectors are corroded beyond rescue and that soldering the wires directly to the crossover board may solve your problem.
Please do not rush to the conclusion that you need to buy new crossover boards.
My guess is that the contacts inside the edge connectors are corroded beyond rescue and that soldering the wires directly to the crossover board may solve your problem.
Please do not rush to the conclusion that you need to buy new crossover boards.
