I contacted REL with no response.
So, got two T5s locally from a guy. I asked him if they were working fine before driving to him. He said yes. Drivers look new, cosmetics are pretty decent. I couldn’t try them because he didn’t have power cables and they were at his work with customers being there wouldn’t be easy anyway.
Came home, both are dead. No power whatsoever. Not a fuse issue (put new ones, didn’t work) Though check out these two boards. Both have the same kind of leak or whatever it is. Do you think this is the problem? Would it work if these were replaced? I am not good at soldering but I have the tools. Just would need parts. Though, it is pretty narrow there.
The seller says he will take them back but wanted to see if this could be the problem definitely and/or if it is worth the hassle. Thanks.
So, got two T5s locally from a guy. I asked him if they were working fine before driving to him. He said yes. Drivers look new, cosmetics are pretty decent. I couldn’t try them because he didn’t have power cables and they were at his work with customers being there wouldn’t be easy anyway.
Came home, both are dead. No power whatsoever. Not a fuse issue (put new ones, didn’t work) Though check out these two boards. Both have the same kind of leak or whatever it is. Do you think this is the problem? Would it work if these were replaced? I am not good at soldering but I have the tools. Just would need parts. Though, it is pretty narrow there.
The seller says he will take them back but wanted to see if this could be the problem definitely and/or if it is worth the hassle. Thanks.
Attachments
Without a schematic difficult to tell if its a bad capacitor issue or something worse, also you do not know what state the pcb is in underneath.
If both have the same failure this suggest a batch quality failure or user error to me. I would be tempted to ask for your money back on this occassion..
If both have the same failure this suggest a batch quality failure or user error to me. I would be tempted to ask for your money back on this occassion..
If that’s the case, no need to mess with it. However, if those two/same places are the cause, I’d say more like a manufacturer’s fault than a user’s fault. Regardless, it shouldn’t have this issues from REL IMO. They’re not THAT old.
If those what look like 2.2K power 5% resistors are that, why would the designer place the 'lytics right between them like that? The caps will get slowly simmered to death. I'd try to mount the caps or the resistors elsewhere.
Good morning,
I have one of these and have started a repair.
The mains transformer on mine had gone so I got a new one from REL.
The two big 2K2 resistors cook the electrolytics which are close.
So far I have replaced all those but now I need to know the value of the two series resistors mounted vertically.
Mine have got hot have become discoloured.
Are you able to give me a value?
I will let you know the outcome when mine is repaired.
Thanks
Michael
I have one of these and have started a repair.
The mains transformer on mine had gone so I got a new one from REL.
The two big 2K2 resistors cook the electrolytics which are close.
So far I have replaced all those but now I need to know the value of the two series resistors mounted vertically.
Mine have got hot have become discoloured.
Are you able to give me a value?
I will let you know the outcome when mine is repaired.
Thanks
Michael
Hi Micheal,
The 2 resisters on my board read as 560ohms and 750ohms though the bars indicate they are 56K and 75K ohms respectively. Refer pic below. I have contacted Ben at REL in the UK and he has not been able to give me the details saying its best to change the board as it may have been over driven. At $500 for a replacement board it is not worth the while.
I'm trying to redo the amp with a ICEPower amp instead but I cannot get the input board to work as it seems to get a 30v dc on yellow and white cables and i suspect the black is ground and red is the line input. If you have any ideas let me know.
Cheers,
Ravi
The 2 resisters on my board read as 560ohms and 750ohms though the bars indicate they are 56K and 75K ohms respectively. Refer pic below. I have contacted Ben at REL in the UK and he has not been able to give me the details saying its best to change the board as it may have been over driven. At $500 for a replacement board it is not worth the while.
I'm trying to redo the amp with a ICEPower amp instead but I cannot get the input board to work as it seems to get a 30v dc on yellow and white cables and i suspect the black is ground and red is the line input. If you have any ideas let me know.
Cheers,
Ravi
Hi,
That helps because mine measure the same so I'm guessing they haven't actually changed in value.
I will be fitting the same.
I have an issue now where the output transistor's Q current is far too high as dictated by the wrong resistor I've put in.
I think the original fault was down to the capacitors drying out causing the amp to oscillate, overheat and take the mains transformer.
Again I will let you know what I've done when it's complete, I will be repairing it to it's original spec.
But I will be fitting small aluminium power resistors on the heatsink instead of the two 2K2 / 3W that cook the capacitors.
I will also be informing REL of their manufacturing defect, (ooh they'll like that).
Thanks
Michael
That helps because mine measure the same so I'm guessing they haven't actually changed in value.
I will be fitting the same.
I have an issue now where the output transistor's Q current is far too high as dictated by the wrong resistor I've put in.
I think the original fault was down to the capacitors drying out causing the amp to oscillate, overheat and take the mains transformer.
Again I will let you know what I've done when it's complete, I will be repairing it to it's original spec.
But I will be fitting small aluminium power resistors on the heatsink instead of the two 2K2 / 3W that cook the capacitors.
I will also be informing REL of their manufacturing defect, (ooh they'll like that).
Thanks
Michael
Hi,
It would be great if you can outline what exactly you did set by set when you complete the repair.
The two large resistors also seem to be heating up a bit too much.
Cheers
It would be great if you can outline what exactly you did set by set when you complete the repair.
The two large resistors also seem to be heating up a bit too much.
Cheers
Hi Michael,
Would it be possible for you to check the connection between the input board and the amp?
There is a 4 pin connector between the two boards next to the LED connector. The wires are Black, Red, Yellow and White.
I suspect the following
Would appreciate it you can confirm this.
Regards,
Would it be possible for you to check the connection between the input board and the amp?
There is a 4 pin connector between the two boards next to the LED connector. The wires are Black, Red, Yellow and White.
I suspect the following
- Black being ground,
- Red signal,
- Yellow +15vdc and
- White -15vdc.
Would appreciate it you can confirm this.
Regards,