I want to make a sealed sub-woofer, the driver size I have in spare is a 5" driver. What should be the dimensions of the sealed enclosure?
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What are the driver parameters?
dave
It's probably a 8 Ohms, some of sort of fiber coated with something, it is concave, no bumps in the middle. That's all I know as I'm new to this.
Go look up Thiele-Small parameters. Without we are shotting in the dark with our hands tied behind our back.
Pictures?
dave
Pictures?
dave
What are the dimensions of three points in space?
Sorry, couldn't resist, but as Dave pointed out, without at least some basic specs [Fs, Vas, Qts] and/or point us to the driver on-line, then all anyone can do is recommend a known too large a box and let you experiment with reducing it by adding scrap wood/whatever till it performed as well as can be expected of a 5" driver.
Sorry, couldn't resist, but as Dave pointed out, without at least some basic specs [Fs, Vas, Qts] and/or point us to the driver on-line, then all anyone can do is recommend a known too large a box and let you experiment with reducing it by adding scrap wood/whatever till it performed as well as can be expected of a 5" driver.
"5-inch", "sealed" and "subwoofer" doesn't really go well together as far as I know 😉
(except of course as "anything with a 5-inch driver in a sealed box usually needs a separate subwoofer" 😀 )
(except of course as "anything with a 5-inch driver in a sealed box usually needs a separate subwoofer" 😀 )
Historically I would have unequivocally agreed, but having been fortunate enough to experience an experimental one in that its diaphragm was a bit < 5", it is doable at a decent ~110 dB peak SPL/m.
Unfortunately it was deemed too expensive overall, so was 'dumbed down' to just being a DC Gold wider than average 'FR' driver.
Odds are though that the OP's 5" won't even be suitable for a mid-bass app unless it's out of a B0$3 or similar HTIAB 'sub'. 🙁
Unfortunately it was deemed too expensive overall, so was 'dumbed down' to just being a DC Gold wider than average 'FR' driver.
Odds are though that the OP's 5" won't even be suitable for a mid-bass app unless it's out of a B0$3 or similar HTIAB 'sub'. 🙁
Go look up Thiele-Small parameters. Without we are shotting in the dark with our hands tied behind our back.
Pictures?
dave
I'll try to get pictures. Thanks for Thiel-Small parameters, I didn't know about it.
What are the dimensions of three points in space?
Sorry, couldn't resist, but as Dave pointed out, without at least some basic specs [Fs, Vas, Qts] and/or point us to the driver on-line, then all anyone can do is recommend a known too large a box and let you experiment with reducing it by adding scrap wood/whatever till it performed as well as can be expected of a 5" driver.
What do you mean by dimensions in three points of space? I had two speakers systems, one had a wired remote control and the other didn't, I just removed the internals of the system with wired remote control and placed them in the one which didn't have it. This one has a 5" driver in what the manufacturer said is a sub-woofer, this is a rectangular box, I'm not getting any bass out of it, so I thought about removing the transducer and placing it in a sealed box which I can make. I don't know what the Fs, Vas and Qts are.
"5-inch", "sealed" and "subwoofer" doesn't really go well together as far as I know 😉
(except of course as "anything with a 5-inch driver in a sealed box usually needs a separate subwoofer" 😀 )
I think it depends on if it is near field or far field, this manufacturer and many other manufacturers use those types of drivers as sub-woofers in 2.1 speaker systems for computers.
Historically I would have unequivocally agreed, but having been fortunate enough to experience an experimental one in that its diaphragm was a bit < 5", it is doable at a decent ~110 dB peak SPL/m.
Unfortunately it was deemed too expensive overall, so was 'dumbed down' to just being a DC Gold wider than average 'FR' driver.
Odds are though that the OP's 5" won't even be suitable for a mid-bass app unless it's out of a B0$3 or similar HTIAB 'sub'. 🙁
It is out of a Chinese 2.1 speaker system for computer.
You asked a question that couldn't be answered without more information, so gave you one for you to see our problem, but apparently it didn't work. 🙁
Do you know if the driver even works? If so, are you saying it just doesn't go low?
If it works, then pretty sure putting it in a [bigger] sealed box will only lose more low end.
Do you know if the driver even works? If so, are you saying it just doesn't go low?
If it works, then pretty sure putting it in a [bigger] sealed box will only lose more low end.
It is out of a Chinese 2.1 speaker system for computer.
What kind of box did they come out of? What does it ook like?
dave
What kind of box did they come out of? What does it ook like?
dave
I think the transducer is mid-woofer and I don't think even in a custom built box, it will produce much bass. I'm looking at buying components individually and putting them together. Are there any stereo amplifier schematics available.
Most of this thread is moot. You're not going to find the T/S parameters anywhere. Going with 'experience' and 'rule of thumb' It is likely your driver came from a ported cabinet. You are going to need a 7ltr (gross) cabinet. 200 x 200 x 250.
Almost every small speaker system is ported. You could literally copy the design of a Mackie CR5X and ignore the tweeter.
Almost every small speaker system is ported. You could literally copy the design of a Mackie CR5X and ignore the tweeter.
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