Hi
It wasn't easy but I traced my parasitic draw to 1 of my 2 aftermarket amps. The culprit is showing.. .075 A to.. .098 A draw at the battery after the vehicle pcm/ecu goes to sleep.
If I remove the remote wire from the culprit amp, the draw remains. If I remove the 4awg power wire from the culprit amp, the drain drops to,. 016.
My dist block takes the 4 awg wire from battery and outputs one 4awg and one 8 awg. I don't have a drain with the 8 awg amp and dist block..until I connect the 4awg amp.
Could I please get advice how to proceed? I have no noticeable issues, works great and fuses are fine, and a brand new batt.
It wasn't easy but I traced my parasitic draw to 1 of my 2 aftermarket amps. The culprit is showing.. .075 A to.. .098 A draw at the battery after the vehicle pcm/ecu goes to sleep.
If I remove the remote wire from the culprit amp, the draw remains. If I remove the 4awg power wire from the culprit amp, the drain drops to,. 016.
My dist block takes the 4 awg wire from battery and outputs one 4awg and one 8 awg. I don't have a drain with the 8 awg amp and dist block..until I connect the 4awg amp.
Could I please get advice how to proceed? I have no noticeable issues, works great and fuses are fine, and a brand new batt.
Visonik 318xt
I'm running it at 2ohm.
I opened up the amp, i don't see anything leaking or capacitors expanded/bloated
I'm running it at 2ohm.
I opened up the amp, i don't see anything leaking or capacitors expanded/bloated
I don't know that amp. A photo may show that it's similar to something else.
Some amps like the older MTX have the control circuit constantly powered. It's simply enabled fully (to produce drive pulses) when remote is applied.
Some amps like the older MTX have the control circuit constantly powered. It's simply enabled fully (to produce drive pulses) when remote is applied.
This isn't like the MTX amps I referred to.
That brown fixative that's at the base of some of the filter capacitors may be the type that becomes both corrosive and conductive. If it's conductive, it can cause various problems.
If the DC voltage between the gate (first) leg of the FETs and ground is 0v, I don't think there's a problem that needs to be repaired.
That brown fixative that's at the base of some of the filter capacitors may be the type that becomes both corrosive and conductive. If it's conductive, it can cause various problems.
If the DC voltage between the gate (first) leg of the FETs and ground is 0v, I don't think there's a problem that needs to be repaired.
Are you referring to the brownish discoloration at the bottom of these 3 fuses in the pic?
and
"If the DC voltage between the gate (first) leg of the FETs and ground is 0v I don't think there's a problem that needs to be repaired."
Would you mind circling it in one of the pics please? I'm not familiar.
and
"If the DC voltage between the gate (first) leg of the FETs and ground is 0v I don't think there's a problem that needs to be repaired."
Would you mind circling it in one of the pics please? I'm not familiar.
Attachments
Those are capacitors. Yes, it's the material at their base that's causing the silkscreen to appear yellowed. It's possibly causing corrosion on one terminal of C2.
Please read the following page before doing anything else to the amp.
bcae1.com - Car Amplifier Repair Tutorial - The Basics
Please read the following page before doing anything else to the amp.
bcae1.com - Car Amplifier Repair Tutorial - The Basics
Hi, I have some news after double checking my wiring.
Power wire, Ground wire, Remote wire.... all fine, no battery draw
Positive RCA jack on amp = PARASITIC DRAW
When i disconnect the positive RCA cable on the amp, the draw is gone.
The RCA jack looks a bit beat up and a possible scorch mark in the pic.
I recall, the red circular rubber piece was loose inside, so i cut it and removed it.
When I did that, the outer rca 'shield' on the jack itself, came off but i was able to line it up and re-insert it....
Power wire, Ground wire, Remote wire.... all fine, no battery draw
Positive RCA jack on amp = PARASITIC DRAW
When i disconnect the positive RCA cable on the amp, the draw is gone.
The RCA jack looks a bit beat up and a possible scorch mark in the pic.
I recall, the red circular rubber piece was loose inside, so i cut it and removed it.
When I did that, the outer rca 'shield' on the jack itself, came off but i was able to line it up and re-insert it....
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Thank you for the quick reply.
Yes, 9.81 DC Volts on the outer shield and 9.77 on the inner center conductor.
What does that tell you?
Yes, 9.81 DC Volts on the outer shield and 9.77 on the inner center conductor.
What does that tell you?
What's the resistance between the B+ terminal of the amp and those points (amp connected to nothing else)?
with the multimeter + probe on the + of the amp, im using the - probe to touch the rca jack.
2.591 outer
2.580 inner
in addition to this amp that we're troubleshooting, i have a 4 channel amp and distribution block.
the drain is still present when removing the 4channel amp from the dist block
2.591 outer
2.580 inner
in addition to this amp that we're troubleshooting, i have a 4 channel amp and distribution block.
the drain is still present when removing the 4channel amp from the dist block
From what you posted, it sounded like the draw was eliminated by only removing the RCA jacks from this amp. What did I get wrong?
That's not likely ohms unless you have a very high resolution meter.
What's the resistance between the RCA shield from the head unit and ground?
That's not likely ohms unless you have a very high resolution meter.
What's the resistance between the RCA shield from the head unit and ground?
Sorry for that, i still had it on DC on the multi. When switching it to ohms it displays 0. I put the + from the multi, on the - frpm the Amp, then used the - from the multi and put it on the outer shield of all 4 rcas.
Hope thats correct
The drain is isolated to those RCAs on the monoblock amp, you are correct.
I'll have to dig up the keys for the deck to check there.
Hope thats correct
The drain is isolated to those RCAs on the monoblock amp, you are correct.
I'll have to dig up the keys for the deck to check there.
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