I would like someone to guide me
I want to update the bat vk51se six pack of jensen 1uf 400v capacitors for something better and that sound better sonically since they are not available I have thought of Mundorf since they can be used by the measures and always oil.
Greetings
I want to update the bat vk51se six pack of jensen 1uf 400v capacitors for something better and that sound better sonically since they are not available I have thought of Mundorf since they can be used by the measures and always oil.
Greetings
Which type of Jensen -paper in oil- sounding such badly?
Don't forget, that space in the Bat is very narrow, so stacked capacitors changing to another manufacturer capacitors would be very problematic.
The size of 6.8uF capacitors is almost huge.
Don't forget, that space in the Bat is very narrow, so stacked capacitors changing to another manufacturer capacitors would be very problematic.
The size of 6.8uF capacitors is almost huge.
They sound great but they deteriorate over the years. The measurements of the 1uf 400v jensen are 24mm x 56mm
Don't use the expensive "high end" Mundorfs containing gold, oil, or similar magic. My experience with these parts was that they are the only capacitors that really make a clear sound difference (not in a good way). Just use any old MKP capacitor and you'll be fine.
I would like someone who has changed capacitors to tell me their experiences regarding jensen oil
Tobias Jensen's product goes bad over time, due to the absence of hermetic sealing. 😡
For long lasting PIO caps., look for either Soviet surplus K40s or U.S. NOS, like Vit. Q, Gudeman ...
For long lasting PIO caps., look for either Soviet surplus K40s or U.S. NOS, like Vit. Q, Gudeman ...
These caps offer a sound which is too much engineered for my liking too. Perhaps ok for a tweeter cross but not full range.
Finding caps that are both transparent and reasonably neutral is not easy. If the unit was mine i would go for a much smaller than the original value using Clarity MR.
Please no one take offense, and take this in the spirit posed. My question is of a hypothetical situation: you, the listener are presented with a magical switch, which changes your own, well observed and comfortable home audio system, by *only* a single stage worth of coupling capacitors. Same value, different reasonably competent manufacture. All foreknowledge of the capacitors' identity is denied.
My question is: how confident would each participant feel about publicly stating her/his judgement of which is which? My interest is in the confidence level.
Thanks all,
Chris
My question is: how confident would each participant feel about publicly stating her/his judgement of which is which? My interest is in the confidence level.
Thanks all,
Chris
Jensens used to go bad (mainly shorting) if the environment is hot, and the voltage on the capacitors is enough large.
The Vk51SE has a design error, around the "sixpack" -very close- are heatsinks. If its dissipates to much, the failure sooner or later will occur.
Chris, the reactions to such changes are personal. Some may not care all that much, others may call them flavours. Mine are violent.
When i was younger and more optimistic i bought a pretty expensive set of well regarded caps to recap a crossover. High expectations as these were to replace lowly Solens. If this was happening today i would have the patience to plug them into a break in device and wait patiently for a week, but i was young and impatient, so had to listen immediately.
The sound was horrible but the promise of break in and future bliss kept me listening. It was nothing short of excruciating for a week. I avoided being in the room when the system was playing but the horror midrange colourations kept chasing after me throughout the house.
After a week it became clear these caps will never sit well with my ears and having swallowed my pride i returned the Solens.
Does that answer your question?
Well, I thank everyone for their participation but I still do not clarify what capacitors I can put on the jensen that comes from the factory oil or MKP or polypropylene etc ...
Not really high, I will admit. A/B switching I find to be quite difficult, especially when the caps are really close in specification. IMHO, it takes some listening time, and patience and repeated switching, to be able to tell a difference. I did my testing with phono stages though and tried a bunch of different caps, all much smaller values than coupling caps or speaker crossovers.
To me, a good (lowest dielectric absorption) and stable (over time, humidity) dielectric matters most, followed by the metalization and contact material. Very good results with silver MICA and silver PPS caps, the MKPs being midrange, Mundorf silver/gold a little undecided yet (great details and fine resolution though).
Very interested in how this develops! Subscribed.... 😀
If the environment is hot, avoid oil capacitors.
Use google, there are a few capacitor mod of Bats, but mainly bypassed six-packs (for example with Sonicap).
The strength of this Bat products is the "six-pack", six paralleled capacitor has very low impedance even at low frequencies.
Only one replacement capacitor has even larger impedance.
Well surely not like electrolytics. You might want to look at those first.
If the amp gets hot and/or average temperature is higher than average then just use good poly caps and 105 deg electrolytics.
i would love to see an independent lab to open up these caps and verify claims by the seller...
Low impedance for a coupling cap? What does that mean? High capacitance? Low ESR? Can you put numbers to it?
And why should it even matter when compared to the output impedance of the stage?
I am not exactly a "lab", but would be willing to dissect some of those parts. Tell me what to do and I'll see what I can do.
that will be great.....i am sure there is documentation from FT the OEM to describe the process so that we can know for sure..i do not exactly know how to go about it without ruining the cap..
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I am happy to ruin a cap for this 😀, but first I'd need to know what to do, and if I have the means to do it.
i guess you have to uncoil the thing and see what oil there is or if gold was used if ever..
judging from the size of the mundorfs, they are film and foils and not mettalized types...good for crossovers as mentioned earlier..
judging from the size of the mundorfs, they are film and foils and not mettalized types...good for crossovers as mentioned earlier..
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