I'm trying to get opinions because I currently am looking at the SB Acoustics SB23MFCL45-8, and had one person recommend against them.
I would like to find a sub to put in three-way cabinets. I primarily am looking for low distortion.
Any suggestions are welcome.
If I really have to, I can switch to a single separate sub for the two speakers, but I would prefer they be integrated. If separate, then $300-$400 would be the budget. I would prefer like $150 each, but am willing to give.
I would like to find a sub to put in three-way cabinets. I primarily am looking for low distortion.
Any suggestions are welcome.
If I really have to, I can switch to a single separate sub for the two speakers, but I would prefer they be integrated. If separate, then $300-$400 would be the budget. I would prefer like $150 each, but am willing to give.
I considered it, but also am wondering about the distortion noted in this review (Test Bench: The SDx10 Home Audio Woofer from CSS Audio | audioXpress)
Not ruled out though.
Maybe giving some options is the better way to ask:
CSS SDX10 XBL2 (have to save up longer, don't like the distortion shown in AudioXpress here: 404 - Page not found | audioXpress but still considered a decent sub)
Peerless by Tymphany 830452 10" XLS Subwoofer
Peerless by Tymphany XXLS-P835016
Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44
Dayton Audio UM10-22 (would have to switch to the 2x200 and 1x400W amp)
Dayton Audio MX12-22
Dayton Audio RSS315HO-4
Not ruled out though.
Maybe giving some options is the better way to ask:
CSS SDX10 XBL2 (have to save up longer, don't like the distortion shown in AudioXpress here: 404 - Page not found | audioXpress but still considered a decent sub)
Peerless by Tymphany 830452 10" XLS Subwoofer
Peerless by Tymphany XXLS-P835016
Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44
Dayton Audio UM10-22 (would have to switch to the 2x200 and 1x400W amp)
Dayton Audio MX12-22
Dayton Audio RSS315HO-4
What are the needs on low extention and volume, because that plays a role.
I like the Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 a lot, fit for sealed and vented, but it won't go very low and very loud at the same time due to limited xmax. But on low volume this (sub)woofer is hard to beat for this pricerange. I like the SB34NRX75-6 also, almost as good but it goes louder and lower. Both are about 150-180€ a piece here.
And in general i think Dayton subwoofers are certainly not bad, but not the best arround, they are often missing something hard to define if you're picky. They are cheap for what they deliver (low and loud) and are reaonable good sounding, that is the deal with them. If that is what you want, then they are fit. If you want the best sound for your money and don't care much about loud volumes, i would look elsewhere.
I like the Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 a lot, fit for sealed and vented, but it won't go very low and very loud at the same time due to limited xmax. But on low volume this (sub)woofer is hard to beat for this pricerange. I like the SB34NRX75-6 also, almost as good but it goes louder and lower. Both are about 150-180€ a piece here.
And in general i think Dayton subwoofers are certainly not bad, but not the best arround, they are often missing something hard to define if you're picky. They are cheap for what they deliver (low and loud) and are reaonable good sounding, that is the deal with them. If that is what you want, then they are fit. If you want the best sound for your money and don't care much about loud volumes, i would look elsewhere.
Just has to get to around 104db, give or take. Prefer down to 40Hz, but anything past that is gravy. In the US (for pricing).
And I agree on the Dayton thing, which is why that is my last ditch effort if I don't grab something else. The CSS 10" is far and away tons less distortion. And right now, I have the 8" SB selected, but thought to get some alternatives.
This is for music with some movies as well, so trying to reach to 40hz is on the music side of things. Reason for only 104dB is these are going in with SEAS prestige Titan 27TAC/GB (H1825) and U18RNX-P (also room size, etc.). So low distortion is too work well with the others (hence why Dayton is NOT preferred, but will be used if nothing else).
And I agree on the Dayton thing, which is why that is my last ditch effort if I don't grab something else. The CSS 10" is far and away tons less distortion. And right now, I have the 8" SB selected, but thought to get some alternatives.
This is for music with some movies as well, so trying to reach to 40hz is on the music side of things. Reason for only 104dB is these are going in with SEAS prestige Titan 27TAC/GB (H1825) and U18RNX-P (also room size, etc.). So low distortion is too work well with the others (hence why Dayton is NOT preferred, but will be used if nothing else).
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Just has to get to around 104db, give or take. Prefer down to 40Hz, but anything past that is gravy. In the US (for pricing).
Well, the scanspeak won't get there at 40Hz, but the SB34NRX75-6 will do that easely way louder at 40hz, and goes way lower (F3 of 36.5Hz, F6 of 29Hz in a 75L sealed). I never seen no distortion measurements of this driver, but i know from listening to it and experience that it must be very low and no peaks in it. If someone could measure it, i would love to see the results (I don't have the tools for that nor the driver here at the moment).
A tale of 12" subwoofers, distortion and 15 dollars.
That post is where some distortion measurements of SB acoustics SB34NRXL75- 8 start, moving to the next page. Not the exact driver you asked for, but similar product from the same company.
How is the sb29swnrx-s75? Don't know if you have heard it.
That post is where some distortion measurements of SB acoustics SB34NRXL75- 8 start, moving to the next page. Not the exact driver you asked for, but similar product from the same company.
How is the sb29swnrx-s75? Don't know if you have heard it.
I think the link to the other thread flagged my response for review. "A tale of 12" subwoofers, distortion and 15 dollars." at the bottom of page 18, the SB acoustics SB34NRXL75- 8 is tested for distortion and is compared in the pdf on the last page. Thought that might interest you (not exactly what you wanted, but it is a similar driver from the same company, so I think it may ballpark distortion).
...the distortion...
Given that Geddes has shown that what we measure as distortion in a loudspeaker is pretty much useless information as far as sonics go, not that distortion is unimportant, just that what we ar emeasuring is not what is important.
I use 4 SDX10 in 2 push push enclosures driven by 4 x 100w and performance is stunning.
dave
Yeah, I may still go with the original SB 8 inch. Woke up this morning realizing it is an extra $240 or so to grab the CSS SDX10, it is the same for the lower 12" SBs, with the other SB 12" that I want being an extra $100 a pop.Given that Geddes has shown that what we measure as distortion in a loudspeaker is pretty much useless information as far as sonics go, not that distortion is unimportant, just that what we ar emeasuring is not what is important.
I use 4 SDX10 in 2 push push enclosures driven by 4 x 100w and performance is stunning.
dave
I'm already at $1400, and going for any of those larger subs would turn this into creating full tower speakers.
But I do thank you and will keep that in mind when I go to creating the 5.1 system for the living room. I'm starting with stereo speakers with a sub in. Primarily seeking good bass to complement the SEAS U18RNX-P and SEAS Titan 27TAC/GB tweeter. So this is looking at one sub per speaker, rather than just stand alone (why I am more conscious of cost considering the other drivers).
So, when I do return to this, I may be choosing between SB, SEAS, and CSS subs...
I've used the Peerless 830452 in a HT sub since 2004 and works a treat but I wouldn't use it for music. Better off with a woofer (lower Mms etc) than a subwoofer driver for music and plenty of options in the SB Acoustics line as they certainly have low Fs.
I tried a SB23MFCL45-4 but had issues with it as the 200W plate amp didn't have enough gain or supply enough current to get it working properly. Amp may have had an issue but never found out as it was returned.
I tried a SB23MFCL45-4 but had issues with it as the 200W plate amp didn't have enough gain or supply enough current to get it working properly. Amp may have had an issue but never found out as it was returned.
I've used the Peerless 830452 in a HT sub since 2004 and works a treat but I wouldn't use it for music. Better off with a woofer (lower Mms etc) than a subwoofer driver for music and plenty of options in the SB Acoustics line as they certainly have low Fs.
Exactly what is your concern about the Peerless XLS driver for music subwoofer application? Looks to make an great subwoofer driver. The higher Mms appears to be necessary for a low Fs without utilization of a high suspension compliance, which would then produce a high Vas. So, it gives you low very frequency output without requiring a huge box. The trade-off being sensitivity.
I've used the Peerless 830452 in a HT sub since 2004 and works a treat but I wouldn't use it for music. Better off with a woofer (lower Mms etc) than a subwoofer driver for music.
What's wrong with them for music?
For years I have used 4 for music and they sound fantastic. Loads of very tight, deep, bass.
Vented sub, sealed SEAS U18RNX-P.ajc9988, Do you plan to do sealed or vented?
Also how high do you plan to run the subs?
TL;DR, the U18RNX is definitely usable down to 100Hz, so anywhere from 80-200Hz is most likely.
From what I have seen, the SEAS could start to have a bit of slow slanting down between 50 and 200Hz. So I kind of want to do 150Hz so that I can use the natural slow slant.
Because one sub will be in each speaker, directional is less of a concern as each speaker will have one, so it should mesh with the others. It being directional seems to matter more if the subs are separate from the other speakers and for movies/home theater use, which is why 80-100Hz is recommended and THX uses 80Hz.
But, I am flexible on that and will determine where to cross depending on what I'm seeing in my testing with drivers in hand and off axis performance and distortion readings for above 50 and 100Hz, as some subs really are not meant to be used above 100Hz (Dayton). Also depends on what behavior I am seeing from the U18RNX in a closed box. As I said, it is really if I see the behavior I have seen from that speaker below 200Hz from some graphs or if it just stays flat.
With that said, the U18RNX is definitely usable down to 100Hz, so anywhere from 80-200Hz is most likely.
What's wrong with them for music?
I just have a preference using woofers for music and not subwoofers. For example something like the Vifa M22WR-09-08 gives me the bass performance I like and I only need to get down to 40Hz. Woofers also allows me to use them higher than I could with the 830452. I only listen at moderate levels and as I've aged I've dialled back the deep bass.
Nothing wrong with the 830452 and I crossover around 60Hz but I prefer the control of woofers 8" and below for music. Could be an age thing.
I found the W.27.500.8.FCX interesting enough (and satisfied with) for my 2 sub-towers, 6 woofers in each.
Each woofer in own closed compartment, 30L . (Dirac Live EQ & MiniDSP 4 x 10). Today crossed at 160 hz / 24LR.
Each woofer in own closed compartment, 30L . (Dirac Live EQ & MiniDSP 4 x 10). Today crossed at 160 hz / 24LR.
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Are you using passive or active crossover? I was considering using an ADAU1701 for an active crossover is why. Sorry to side track my own thread. LolI found the W.27.500.8.FCX interesting enough (and satisfied with) for my 2 sub-towers, 6 woofers in each.
Each woofer in own closed compartment, 30L . (Dirac Live EQ & MiniDSP 4 x 10). Today crossed at 160 hz / 24LR.
I know the Seas L26Roy is a little over your budget but it's one of the cleanest 10s I've seen in my distortion test and others.
Yes, the MiniDSP 4 x 10 is an active crossover.Are you using passive or active crossover? I was considering using an ADAU1701 for an active crossover is why. Sorry to side track my own thread. Lol
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