Hello,
First of all I would like to apologise for this silly question - its been more than 10 years since I've built an amp myself or touched a soldering iron really. I've forgotten so many things. Please let me know if this is not a place for such question and I will delete this post if thats the case.
I have this tube Luxman amp from the 80s that I am planning to recap.
The problem is that I cannot find replacement units for these.
Searching by the code on top yields zero results. They all have 4 pins which I believe I never dealt with. Maybe you guys could lead me on a path?
First of all I would like to apologise for this silly question - its been more than 10 years since I've built an amp myself or touched a soldering iron really. I've forgotten so many things. Please let me know if this is not a place for such question and I will delete this post if thats the case.
I have this tube Luxman amp from the 80s that I am planning to recap.
The problem is that I cannot find replacement units for these.
Searching by the code on top yields zero results. They all have 4 pins which I believe I never dealt with. Maybe you guys could lead me on a path?
I can strongly recommend Hayseed Hamfest, based on quite a few recent restorations done by my friend itishifi.com, who has spent the Covid months churning through a pile of classic-era amps and tuners. They're beautifully made, with top quality Panasonic and Nichicon internals, and Hayseed's customer support is first rate. Pictures here:
Fisher X100 Restoration — Retro Vintage Modern Hi-Fi
YOS,
Chris
Fisher X100 Restoration — Retro Vintage Modern Hi-Fi
YOS,
Chris
For the Europeans, I think "Frag Jan zuerst" (Ask Jan first) Also carries modern twistlocks made by FT .
If there is room in the chassis, I would leave the originals in place and hide modern replacements there. You can make a little board, or mount a tag strip to hold the replacements. Modern electrolytic capacitors are compact, and concealing replacements in the chassis is quite possible.
And that's why you want to change them?
I'll give you a little lesson since I've retired from 40+ years in the home audio service business...
The "domed top" of the shrink wrap is a normal thing - not a defect of the capacitor.
It's the result of normal heat from the chassis components causing tightening of the wrap, which then deforms and domes the disk.
Since those are first class Chemi-cons, I'd leave them alone.
It is true that these caps are first class (to be expected from LUX ). Only if they are leaking on the lead side then i would worry.