to start i don't know if this is the right place to post this and i might be saying incorrect things.links are on the bottom
i want to build a ghetto blaster i want it to sound decent but its more party-fun
bass blasting machine(hip hop, hard rock bass heavy electronic music) then serious audible listening
i found and ordered this $40 amplifier.
2 X 50 WATT 4ohm AA-JA32171 CLASS D AUDIO AMPLIFIER BOARD WITH BLUETOOTH V5.0 & DSP - JAB2V2[753]
it has the Bluetooth and it contains dsp because of this i was thinking of using
a small subwoofer bass reflex/and crossing early to a sealed full range speaker.
since the board is doing the crossover i won't need expensive big coils.
saves room weight and cost.
it will be using 18650 battery's to power the amplifier for a total of 22.2v somewhere between 3000/7000mah depending if i use 6 or 12cells.
other things want to take into consideration most to least important.
1 deep bass for a ghetto blaster
2 small total size
3 louder is better
4 lightweight is better
5 not insanely expensive
for the bass reflex bass i have 2 idea's and concerns
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker 4 ohm
1 is the amp powerfull enough
2 qts 0.49 a bit high? for bass reflex
3 bit heavy driver for ghetto blaster
i want to use the tb driver because it has such great low bass xmax but there is a lot to say for the wavecore
Wavecor SW118WA01 4-1/2" Balanced Drive Paper Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm
in comparison to the tb
1 smaller cabinet
2 qts 0.39
3 half the weight
what do you think
or should i just skip the idea and do a traditional 2 way or full range speaker.
thanks for all the help and i will be keeping updates on the project.
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
SW118WA01_02
WONDOM | STORE
i want to build a ghetto blaster i want it to sound decent but its more party-fun
bass blasting machine(hip hop, hard rock bass heavy electronic music) then serious audible listening
i found and ordered this $40 amplifier.
2 X 50 WATT 4ohm AA-JA32171 CLASS D AUDIO AMPLIFIER BOARD WITH BLUETOOTH V5.0 & DSP - JAB2V2[753]
it has the Bluetooth and it contains dsp because of this i was thinking of using
a small subwoofer bass reflex/and crossing early to a sealed full range speaker.
since the board is doing the crossover i won't need expensive big coils.
saves room weight and cost.
it will be using 18650 battery's to power the amplifier for a total of 22.2v somewhere between 3000/7000mah depending if i use 6 or 12cells.
other things want to take into consideration most to least important.
1 deep bass for a ghetto blaster
2 small total size
3 louder is better
4 lightweight is better
5 not insanely expensive
for the bass reflex bass i have 2 idea's and concerns
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker 4 ohm
1 is the amp powerfull enough
2 qts 0.49 a bit high? for bass reflex
3 bit heavy driver for ghetto blaster
i want to use the tb driver because it has such great low bass xmax but there is a lot to say for the wavecore
Wavecor SW118WA01 4-1/2" Balanced Drive Paper Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm
in comparison to the tb
1 smaller cabinet
2 qts 0.39
3 half the weight
what do you think
or should i just skip the idea and do a traditional 2 way or full range speaker.
thanks for all the help and i will be keeping updates on the project.
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
SW118WA01_02
WONDOM | STORE
Dorset Blue (tooth)
Hiya, here's my attempt. I used a passive radiator with the W5 and the bass is strong to well under 40hz in about 9.5 litres. Loud enough!
Hiya, here's my attempt. I used a passive radiator with the W5 and the bass is strong to well under 40hz in about 9.5 litres. Loud enough!
1. The output power is quoted as 2 x 50W into 4Ω using a 21V supply.
The power output is not stated as an RMS value so the actual useable power is likely to be much less than 50W, particularly when the distortion is already 1% at 10W.
Having said that, the amp should be an adequate choice for a portable device.
2. A Qts of 0.4 or below indicates a speaker well suited to a vented enclosure. A Qts of 0.49 is just on the verge of that figure, but there are always exceptions to the general rule.
3. Regarding the suitability of the weight of the driver, that depends on how muscular you are! 😀
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looks really cool but i believe that amp provides""100w""on the bass
do you have more power then the woofer can take like do you open it 70% cause that would be a good thing for the question if 50 watt is enough?? for comparison?
i only have 50w and apparently a lot less so should i not be looking at much lower rated woofers like 30w rms drivers?
i mean 35 hz 9mm xmax is fun but if my amp can only make it move 3mm then what's the point.
Hiya, I reckon the W5 would sound ok with less power. My amp spanks it hard but double the watts is only an extra 3db. Go ahead, have fun and learn as you try stuff.😸
This driver would make a lot more level, with 8 ohm 26W 105dB/half space
8.5L vented 58Hz makes +/-6mm excursion.
Of course outside 6dB less (baffle step).
Davis loudspeaker
another
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/pdf/sbacoustics/sbacoustics_sb15mfc30_4.pdf
8.5L vented 58Hz makes +/-6mm excursion.
Of course outside 6dB less (baffle step).
Davis loudspeaker
another
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/pdf/sbacoustics/sbacoustics_sb15mfc30_4.pdf
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Choose 2 out of 3. Serious.
All 3 at the same time is physically impossible.
As of speakers, I think a > 5" speaker will move more air than a 4" one, and I would call none of them a SUB woofer.
Barely woofers if that much.
Thanks for the response
I politely disagree as a total product It would be a complete fail.
And I would be much better of duplicating your project.
The bad
Compared to your well executed project
I would have twice the cabinet 8 liter extra ,2 woofers twice as large
extra weight of the wood and extra weight the extra driver 8pounds extra
for 2 woofers twice as expensive 50 euro blows in the wind
to get the same amount of bass as your project..
bansure thank you for your suggestion.
Both driver need large cabinets and are high wattage davis is a bit to expensive.
1 deep bass
2 small
3 louder
marty mg 2.1 project seems to me to hit all 3 fairly well
ofcourse 2.1 is a bit cheating
i am not looking for 2 of the 3 but a combination that makes sense a good balance between amplifier and driver and size
how much listenable power can i expect from my amplifier board 30/204ohm?
and if that is the case than this driver seems to make sense.
Peerless by Tymphany SLS-85S25CP04-04 3-1/2" Paper Cone Woofer
Peerless by Tymphany SLS-85S25CP04-04 woofer kopen - SoundImports
if i would use this then i would be better of to use a tweeter instead of a full range driver for the high notes right.
and if that is the case than this driver seems to make sense.
Peerless by Tymphany SLS-85S25CP04-04 3-1/2" Paper Cone Woofer
Peerless by Tymphany SLS-85S25CP04-04 woofer kopen - SoundImports
if i would use this then i would be better of to use a tweeter instead of a full range driver for the high notes right.
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The Davis needs vented 8.5L and makes 58Hz (-3dB) at 105dB with 26W 8 ohm at max excursion (6mm)
The SB Acoustics vented 4.5L makes also 58Hz at103.5dB with 50W 4 ohm at max excursion (5mm)
can almost work as a full range
here is a site to calculate you can try with the peerless
Lautsprecher Gehauseberechnung mit Thiele Small Parameter
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thank you very much for clarifying
still i find the davis driver to expensive for a boombox especially with such a cheap amplifier and in my mind it should not be a 8 ohm driver but a 4ohm driver.
i find the sb a good suggestion but still maby to much driver if i only have 30?? watt to play with taking total size and weight into consideration do you know why they scratched out the vented enclosure suggestion option on lautsprechershop.de
the real question stays how much audible watt can the amp really deliver to come to a well overall design.
still i find the davis driver to expensive for a boombox especially with such a cheap amplifier and in my mind it should not be a 8 ohm driver but a 4ohm driver.
i find the sb a good suggestion but still maby to much driver if i only have 30?? watt to play with taking total size and weight into consideration do you know why they scratched out the vented enclosure suggestion option on lautsprechershop.de
the real question stays how much audible watt can the amp really deliver to come to a well overall design.
I gave the wrong figure for distortion earlier. The data sheet says 0.06% distortion at 1,000Hz for 10W into 4 ohm.
http://store.sure-electronics.com/i...Audio Amplifier Board - JAB2V2 Datasheet .pdf
Realistically, I wouldn't expect more than 25W of low distortion RMS power from the amp, but this is only a guesstimate.
However, that's enough watts to make the Peerless woofer to which you linked go very loud!
i started designing with the peerless 3.5 driver and came to the conclusion that it needs a enormous port to work.
or passive radiators. i don't want to spent 60 euro on passive radiators for 20 euro drivers.
so i am sticking with the port only it needs to be 28.4mm 335mm long
so i came up with this solution going strait through the dividing panel
the port for the other speaker is not drawn but will be on top of this one mirrored using 32 mm drain pipe with 1 corner attachment.
i read max air felocity 17 i whould make
but still at 15w 16.5 air velocity
and at 25 w even 21.7
i can flare the front panel a bit is this acceptable .
or am i completely insane for not wanting to using passive radiators or other drivers don't be afraid to say so.
or passive radiators. i don't want to spent 60 euro on passive radiators for 20 euro drivers.
so i am sticking with the port only it needs to be 28.4mm 335mm long
so i came up with this solution going strait through the dividing panel
the port for the other speaker is not drawn but will be on top of this one mirrored using 32 mm drain pipe with 1 corner attachment.
i read max air felocity 17 i whould make
but still at 15w 16.5 air velocity
and at 25 w even 21.7
i can flare the front panel a bit is this acceptable .
or am i completely insane for not wanting to using passive radiators or other drivers don't be afraid to say so.
Attachments
you are 100% correct and i was wrong to put your
deep bass
smaller
louder
statement into question.
you are absolutely right!
what i was trying to explain( and did pretty poorly.)
was that the design would be based on 1 deep bass for a ghetto blaster(i should restate this to deep bass compared to total size)
it will be total of something like 300mmx140x130 mm total size for this size it still has deep bass in stereo in my opinion.
high 5 😀
deep bass
smaller
louder
statement into question.
you are absolutely right!
what i was trying to explain( and did pretty poorly.)
was that the design would be based on 1 deep bass for a ghetto blaster(i should restate this to deep bass compared to total size)
it will be total of something like 300mmx140x130 mm total size for this size it still has deep bass in stereo in my opinion.
high 5 😀
The Faital 5FE120 might work.
Vas is only 5.4L, Xmax 5.25mm and Fs 65Hz and is useable out to 5k.
Vas is only 5.4L, Xmax 5.25mm and Fs 65Hz and is useable out to 5k.
You can have any two of the three characteristics listed above in any one subwoofer, not all three at once.
I found another driver needs 1.5L shorter vent
beautiful, good treble, can go full range, cheap
good reviews, I didn't try it
Dayton Audio CF120-4 4-1/2" Woven Carbon Fiber Midwoofer 4 Ohms
beautiful, good treble, can go full range, cheap
good reviews, I didn't try it
Dayton Audio CF120-4 4-1/2" Woven Carbon Fiber Midwoofer 4 Ohms