Hello, all!
I want to paint my KRK Rokit 5 G3 woofers, from yellow to black or dark grey. Did some googling but couldn't find any tip. Also found lots of people saying it would ruin the sound. Is it really true?
Those are glass aramid woofers.
If it's doable, what paint should I use?
Thank you very much!
I want to paint my KRK Rokit 5 G3 woofers, from yellow to black or dark grey. Did some googling but couldn't find any tip. Also found lots of people saying it would ruin the sound. Is it really true?
Those are glass aramid woofers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If it's doable, what paint should I use?
Thank you very much!
Difficult to tell without measuring the frequency response before and after. The paint will add a tiny amount of mass, which lowers the efficiency (not that much of an issue) and also lowers the cone resonance frequency (this is an issue if the resonance is notched out electronically - then the notch will be off). If I would have to guess, I would say that the added mass is insignificant if you are able to paint a thin layer only.
Someone suggested placing the woofer on a rotating platform and then add thin layers of spray paint. Clean and degrease first. Make sure to mask off the black surround, as it must be free to bend and because paint solvents might 'eat' it.
Glass and aramid fibres usually are bonded by epoxy resin. There could be an existing lacquer layer on top. The spray paint should be of a kind that sticks to these materials.
Someone suggested placing the woofer on a rotating platform and then add thin layers of spray paint. Clean and degrease first. Make sure to mask off the black surround, as it must be free to bend and because paint solvents might 'eat' it.
Glass and aramid fibres usually are bonded by epoxy resin. There could be an existing lacquer layer on top. The spray paint should be of a kind that sticks to these materials.
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Find an appropriate spray paint. You'll be able to apply a very thin coat or two which will be insignificant to the mass of the diaphragm - remember, you're not dealing with a precision product, there's MUCH more deviation driver-to-driver than a couple thin coats of paint will contribute. Mask off the surround and the dust cap.
What kind of paint to use? That will largely depend on whether or not the paint will stick to the material. Some materials just don't take paint well. Have you ever tried to paint a PVC pipe?!: Spray the paint on, let it dry, flake it off. So, unless there's someone here who knows what type of paint to use, and isn't just guessing, your best bet is to email KRK and ask them. You might also google "painting glass aramid", or contacting a few paint manufacturers' customer service.
It won´t be uniform, big time. 🙁
Definitely something spray applied, and as fine mist as possible.
Better a first *light* coat, which still lets some yellow through, lt it dry , say, 15 minutes, mainly to make it stick and not run, and then a second light coat, just to darken the previous one.
As said above, doubt many paints *stick* well to such a plastic fiber, which to boot may be coated with something, but since nobody will actually touch it, it may hold.
Definitely something spray applied, and as fine mist as possible.
Better a first *light* coat, which still lets some yellow through, lt it dry , say, 15 minutes, mainly to make it stick and not run, and then a second light coat, just to darken the previous one.
As said above, doubt many paints *stick* well to such a plastic fiber, which to boot may be coated with something, but since nobody will actually touch it, it may hold.
A solvent based aniline die might work on aramid. Maybe work from the back side of the cone first.
Definitely use a lazy Susan for equal distribution, and as others mentioned do a good job of masking what you don't want painted.
As previous post, a dye might work better than paint, lots of spray paints are not designed for flexible surfaces, speaker cones flex a lot. Can get dyes for wood you apply with a cloth.
If driver is water proof, try brushing RIT dye or even submerging driver in dye solution. Then dry thoroughly before use.
Same here. "Waterproof" usually means cone front surface is plastified or painted with some water resistant paint or varnish so it stands water splashes and even actual rain (say in open air installed PA or background music cabinets) but it never meant the whole speaker could be submerged or anything.
NO water on suspension, voice coil, inside gap, etc.
NO water on suspension, voice coil, inside gap, etc.
As long as glue is waterproof and cone is not paper - I suspect it could get wet with water and be dried successfully. But of course, do so at your own risk. In which case maybe brush on dye on cone outer surface.
I know it sounds crazy but amplifiers can be washed or submerged in clean distilled water and dried thoroughly before operating again. Perhaps same is true of drivers that don’t have intrinsic water soluble parts?
Paper formers, paper cones, water soluble glues would disqualify a driver for submerged process. 🙂
Black Sharpies come in wide tip too. There is strong solvent in that ink so be careful near the surrounds.
I know it sounds crazy but amplifiers can be washed or submerged in clean distilled water and dried thoroughly before operating again. Perhaps same is true of drivers that don’t have intrinsic water soluble parts?
Paper formers, paper cones, water soluble glues would disqualify a driver for submerged process. 🙂
Black Sharpies come in wide tip too. There is strong solvent in that ink so be careful near the surrounds.
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Just for general information:
IF cone is solid plastic no pores (Bextrene?) it will survive water.
A cast frame too, as well as any modern voice coils.
Not sure about that Kevlar cone because it has a woven structure, unless varnished at factory or something, it will absorb some water.
Foam edge adhesives by necessity (solvents attack foam) and dustcap / spider ones *may* be solvent type (some kind of rubber cement) but many btimes are water based, think good quality Elmer´s/carpenter´s glue.
Voice coil to cone and spider adhesive is typically epoxy in 99% modern speakers and some kind of thick cyanoacrilate (gel krazy glue) on a few, both are water resistant.
BUT spider which is always treated (phenolic) impregnated and pressed *cotton* cloth is somewhat protected , will stand a few water drops, but will deform if submerged and re dried.
Stamped steel frames may rust (old speakers are often very rusty just by ambient humidity) and you do NOT want any water in the internal magnet cavities.
IF cone is solid plastic no pores (Bextrene?) it will survive water.
A cast frame too, as well as any modern voice coils.
Not sure about that Kevlar cone because it has a woven structure, unless varnished at factory or something, it will absorb some water.
Foam edge adhesives by necessity (solvents attack foam) and dustcap / spider ones *may* be solvent type (some kind of rubber cement) but many btimes are water based, think good quality Elmer´s/carpenter´s glue.
Voice coil to cone and spider adhesive is typically epoxy in 99% modern speakers and some kind of thick cyanoacrilate (gel krazy glue) on a few, both are water resistant.
BUT spider which is always treated (phenolic) impregnated and pressed *cotton* cloth is somewhat protected , will stand a few water drops, but will deform if submerged and re dried.
Stamped steel frames may rust (old speakers are often very rusty just by ambient humidity) and you do NOT want any water in the internal magnet cavities.
Ya, the word dipping should be used with 'skinny' not drivers.
Spray paint is your best bet but has a high solvent count and must be done numerous times. A sponge brush would be good if you plan only one coat.
Has anyone asked why you want to do this yet?
Spray paint is your best bet but has a high solvent count and must be done numerous times. A sponge brush would be good if you plan only one coat.
Has anyone asked why you want to do this yet?
Hi, Cal.
I want to paint it because my wife hates the yellow cone. She thinks it looks like a "bro car stereo" (and she's right). The desk is in our living room. 🙁
Thank you all for the responses!
Would she put up with a speaker grille?
Davis did okay with yellow cones. davis acoustics speaker drivers - Google Search
Davis did okay with yellow cones. davis acoustics speaker drivers - Google Search
I believe there are no grilles for the Rokit 5 G3 speakers. I would have to improvise one, but I think it wouldn't turn up very good because of the round shape of the baffle. Easier to sell them and purchase a better looking speaker if I have to go that route.
Bro Car Stereo 🙂
If you have an airbrush, mix yourself some latex water based black paint. Set to a very fine mist and add a thin layer at a time. Listen and keep adding more and more to taste (musically and aesthetically).
Covering black over yellow is hard. Maybe consider a shade of bronze or copper or brass paint. Less offensive than crayola yellow.
If you have an airbrush, mix yourself some latex water based black paint. Set to a very fine mist and add a thin layer at a time. Listen and keep adding more and more to taste (musically and aesthetically).
Covering black over yellow is hard. Maybe consider a shade of bronze or copper or brass paint. Less offensive than crayola yellow.
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