UPC1237 Speaker protection board: Current requirements

Allmost all current is for the relais, the IC needs very little.
The coil data says 77mA, so for two 150mA.
That's DC, to be on the safe side double it for AC.
So you need a 12...16V @ 300mA transformer.
Mona
 
Hi Guys,


No transistors or SMDS.


See attached for some photos.


Any ideas as to how one might identify a fake?




My thinking is as follows:

None of the caps are name brand - one is 100uf instead of 220uf as stated on the board itself - probably reused caps or whatever is lying around.

7812s are about 75c

Omron relays of the same type as about $4.75 from element 14.




Economies of scales seems to suggest they could use genuine relays and make these boards for the purchase price of $18 with some margin.


I also paid a premium for 'Omron' relays instead of Songle brand relays like on this one.
30A Dual Stereo Power Amp Speaker Protection Board w/ LED Display AC12V-16V | eBay
 

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I have this kit and board , the amp has 95 Volt rails,
i have a separate transformer to supply the 12 volt regulator , but how do I select the 2 series resistors to pin two 2 from the amp outputs. The pin 2 cap is 100 uf bipolar and 100 k to ground, the supplied resistors are 30 K - way to low if the amp ever went to 95 VDC
 
Sadface,

Is there a SMD transistor anywhere on the board, on top or bottom side of it? If there is a transistor, than this kit is probably best buy. Relays are good if they are not fakes.

Relays will probably last a lifetime if not abused.
At power up they switch no current.
Its only if the amp fails that the relay will do much work when the relay turns off on full power. I prefer SSR's for the job but they are more expensive.
 
upc1237 will probably not hold 150mA needed for 2 realays long time.
I will upgrade the board with adequate transistor which can handle coil current.
this board relays are suitable to handle only 20A on 28Vdc, if there is failure on amp with much more supply voltage, relay have possibility to melt on switch off.
 
Well, the board says AC. But I do not see a rectifier. Which means it maybe needs DC. And wrong polarity WILL blow-up the regulator.

If I could see the bottom of the board, how the power terminals connect to the first filter capacitor and the LM7812 regulator, I could guess a "most likely" polarity. But I do not trust ten-dollar products.