I'm building a small 2 way using a seas 5.5" midbass, and saw sheets of Vietnamese rubber wood, being sold as a kitchen timber bench top, 25mm thick that looked as though it would make a nice cabinet material. I know that real wood isn't used often, but I'm really tempted to use it. I will still properly brace and damp the midbass enclosure, and the speaker is definitely in the mini monitor category.
Rubber wood is a composite hardwood made from felled rubber trees and, I think, kiln dried. If anyone has built a speaker from real hardwood how did it work out, and would you do it again?
Rubber wood is a composite hardwood made from felled rubber trees and, I think, kiln dried. If anyone has built a speaker from real hardwood how did it work out, and would you do it again?
Some of the best speakers I have heard were built using solid jarrah.
You have to allow for natural timber movement and seal the inside surfaces.
You have to allow for natural timber movement and seal the inside surfaces.
I think that good quality baltich birch playwood is the best "standard" wood for building speaker cabinet. VERY ridgid and not "dead" as MDF.
As jtgofish, solid wood can/will bend/twist depending on change in humidity, temperature and so on. The same reason kitchen tables are often made of stacks of wood glued together.
This is not to say that it cannot be done.
As jtgofish, solid wood can/will bend/twist depending on change in humidity, temperature and so on. The same reason kitchen tables are often made of stacks of wood glued together.
This is not to say that it cannot be done.
Agreed, there is a little maintenance required. Did a few in birch and mahogany. It remains beautiful if maintained.
The best approach is to use solid timber for the sides ,tops and bottoms and veneered MDF or ply for the front and back baffles.That way the timber can move with the seasons without compromising the structural strength.
I have made cabinets with solid wood for all sides. Used regular PVA glue to join the top/bottom/sides as the movement is mutual (cabinet grows and shrinks significantly in depth, minimal dimensional change to width/height). Polyurethane construction adhesive (remains rubbery after setting) to attach the front, rear baffles and internal braces to allow for wood movement. No issues to report several years later.
I have seen people construct solid cabinets and use PVA everywhere. Some of those cabinets tore themselves apart after about a year.
I have seen people construct solid cabinets and use PVA everywhere. Some of those cabinets tore themselves apart after about a year.
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I used solid oak in my first build 30 + years ago and they formed huge cracks and the speakers were tossed but a nice looking tower for a while.my current speaker I built 20 years ago using solid cherry over mdf .they have held up ok with some joint separation.did not USA pvaor poly glue and should have.they still sound good.
Mark
Mark
https://www.bunnings.com.au/marquee-2200-x-600-x-25mm-rubberwood-timber-benchtop_p2667635
This is the link to the item at Bunnings Hardware. It looks way better in the flesh than the photo. I'll phone them tomorrow and try and confirm if it is kiln dried and resists shrinkage or swelling.
This is the link to the item at Bunnings Hardware. It looks way better in the flesh than the photo. I'll phone them tomorrow and try and confirm if it is kiln dried and resists shrinkage or swelling.
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I've just knocked together my first solid wood cab. It's for a guitar amp, all-pine and open back. Everything glued all-over with PVA. I'l check back in a year to see if it's all ripped apart. I hope not. The wood was seasoned in my garage for 20 years. I'll seal the wood inside and out to minimize the affect of humidity changes.
Yes, I have made 9 pairs of speakers from solid wood, Jarrah, Myrtle and Tasmanian Oak. Top, sides and bottom are solid wood and glued together. The back is also solid wood, screwed on and sealed with a rubber seal to allow movement. The front baffle is either solid wood screwed on like the back, or MDF. The oldest is over 10 years old and no problems from movement. You need to keep the across grain dimensions small, don't glue across the grain, and allow the cabinets to move across the grain. So, small speakers or tall TL's work well.
Some pictures are here
Mandolins By Peter Coombe - Hi Fi Loudspeakers
Some pictures are here
Mandolins By Peter Coombe - Hi Fi Loudspeakers
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From the link provided by the OP : "Made from plantation trees that have already been felled for the latex they excrete" - Eh?
Beautiful work Peter.
I really think jarrah is the obvious choice.It is a slow growing short grained non resonant timber with medium to high density and just seems to sound great.I have also used it for hi fi racks and turntable plinths .
Grado have used it for some of their most expensive wood body cartridges.The darker the better because that usually indicates old growth.
Solid wood can work, but I wouldn't use that rubber panel.
I have, in storage, a half-built project glued up from local hardwood, which looks like "vic ash" or "tas oak"*
Horn FAST in timber
...and in the same storage, another half-built project using a rubber wood panel from Bunnings.
The rubber panel shrank and split wide open. The eucalyptus is still fine.
I also had a pair of bass boxes for >10 years that I made from hardwood from a salvage yard, presumably old growth eucalyptus. They were sanded and oiled only once (no varnish / sealer), and there was no splitting / movement at all.
Basically: eucalyptus wins. And check salvage yards and specialist (timber only) retailers, they often have better/cheaper timber than Bunnings.
*Eucalyptus regnans - Wikipedia
I have, in storage, a half-built project glued up from local hardwood, which looks like "vic ash" or "tas oak"*
Horn FAST in timber
...and in the same storage, another half-built project using a rubber wood panel from Bunnings.
The rubber panel shrank and split wide open. The eucalyptus is still fine.
I also had a pair of bass boxes for >10 years that I made from hardwood from a salvage yard, presumably old growth eucalyptus. They were sanded and oiled only once (no varnish / sealer), and there was no splitting / movement at all.
Basically: eucalyptus wins. And check salvage yards and specialist (timber only) retailers, they often have better/cheaper timber than Bunnings.
*Eucalyptus regnans - Wikipedia
The phrasing is bad, but I think what they mean is that the trees aren't primarily grown for timber. They only produce latex for ~25 years, so the growers have to clear them and plant new ones. The timber sales are just a bonus.
I have built most of my prototypes with solid wood side panels for more than 15 years. This includes several 6 feet tall line arrays, many MLTLs (several 4 feet tall), many small monitors, and others. I've built more than 20 prototypes speaker pairs over the years and none of my speakers have come apart.
For my builds I specify kiln dried lumber and generally use MDF for the other panels and bracing. Some of the larger speakers use pocket screw joinery but most feature wood glue joints.
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/5/0/9/5/9/6468.jpg
http://greatplainsaudiofest.com/Photos/CSSLineArray01.jpg
You can find photos of my MLTL designs on DIYaudio with a search.
The linked photos show line arrays which are 6 feet tall and more than 10 years old and still going strong. Both feature real 0.75 inch thick walnut side panels.
Jim
For my builds I specify kiln dried lumber and generally use MDF for the other panels and bracing. Some of the larger speakers use pocket screw joinery but most feature wood glue joints.
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/5/0/9/5/9/6468.jpg
http://greatplainsaudiofest.com/Photos/CSSLineArray01.jpg
You can find photos of my MLTL designs on DIYaudio with a search.
The linked photos show line arrays which are 6 feet tall and more than 10 years old and still going strong. Both feature real 0.75 inch thick walnut side panels.
Jim
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