Trusted place to source new KSS-150A lasers
Hi
I just got a nice NEC CD-620 today, TDA1541 based player, stock is a bit more open than a stock CD50
Anyway, my good friend advised against a local supplier here, as most of their lasers are dead or arrive dead.
Any trusted ebay sources or others please share
Many Thanks
Regards
Sam
Hi
I just got a nice NEC CD-620 today, TDA1541 based player, stock is a bit more open than a stock CD50
Anyway, my good friend advised against a local supplier here, as most of their lasers are dead or arrive dead.
Any trusted ebay sources or others please share
Many Thanks
Regards
Sam
The KSS-150a was obsolete many years ago. The KSS-210 will replace it. They are very inexpensive around £6 GBP. If one uses fleabay and it is dead on arrival, use PayPal to get your money back. I used to purchase some from here with no issues as Sony do not manufacture them any more.
Search Results | CPC UK
Search Results | CPC UK
Hello Jon
Thanks.
I was wondering why Wagner/Wes electronics still had stock of KSS-150A. My friend who used to do repairs, had 3 dead lasers in a row, and eventually they confessed the lasers were used. Is it possible there KSS-210 from them would be used? btw WES uses paypal now! 😀
Thanks for the link, so the KSS-210 is what i need, the seller on ebay refund me partially for a new laser.
A new thread to I think - for issues to look far with laser fail
I bought this lovely NEC CD620 which i would like to keep from ebay. I intially saw a dent on the top and assumed it was the postal service here, but upon looking at the listing photos the dent was there, and no signs of damage to the new postal box.
Initally the cd was acting up - cleaned lens, squirt of grease to the metal rail
Then it worked well, till the sound went distored and or just stopped. Track changing varied sometimes good sometimes lagging a bit. This was with a non cdr disc
Disc reading first CDR did not read, upon loading a second time it read, and again good for a bit and then issues again 🙁
Initally the cd was acting up - cleaned lens, squirt of grease to the metal rail
Then it worked well, till the sound went distored and or just stopped. Track changing varied sometimes good sometimes lagging a bit. This was with a non cdr disc
Disc reading first CDR did not read, upon loading a second time it read, and again good for a bit and then issues again 🙁
Hi MaccAu,
Disassemble the laser head from the mechanism. There is a short to go on the head before you disconnect it.
Clean everything right to bare surface, no oil at all. Clean the head and the gears too. Look at the slide opposite the rail for the head. Look for warping and / or cracks. If you find some, the head might be fine and the mech is scrap.
Use some fine, single weight oil, pure. Nothing added. Place one drop on the rail and coat it evenly. Slide the rail into the cleaned head and ensure it travels back and forth easily. Too much oil will stick things up. Use some very light white grease on the slide, then reassemble the head assy. Check that it moves freely back and forth with zero sticking. If it is clear, then put the gears back in, Pretension the anti-backlash rack on the head.
The proper replacement for the head is KSS-210A. The KSS-150A heads had problems and some melted down in the coil area at the top of the head.
The disc motor is probably in need of replacement. New head needed, you do need a new spindle motor. The spindle motor is most often the problem.
Treat the plastic lens like a camera lens. Make certain it is spotlessly clean.
-Chris
Disassemble the laser head from the mechanism. There is a short to go on the head before you disconnect it.
Clean everything right to bare surface, no oil at all. Clean the head and the gears too. Look at the slide opposite the rail for the head. Look for warping and / or cracks. If you find some, the head might be fine and the mech is scrap.
Use some fine, single weight oil, pure. Nothing added. Place one drop on the rail and coat it evenly. Slide the rail into the cleaned head and ensure it travels back and forth easily. Too much oil will stick things up. Use some very light white grease on the slide, then reassemble the head assy. Check that it moves freely back and forth with zero sticking. If it is clear, then put the gears back in, Pretension the anti-backlash rack on the head.
The proper replacement for the head is KSS-210A. The KSS-150A heads had problems and some melted down in the coil area at the top of the head.
The disc motor is probably in need of replacement. New head needed, you do need a new spindle motor. The spindle motor is most often the problem.
Treat the plastic lens like a camera lens. Make certain it is spotlessly clean.
-Chris
Thank you Chris
Where is the short? would it be on the mechanism
I havent had a KSS-150A before. If the mech is scrap, I would have to find a whole new mech then, means another player with the mech?
I have a multi voltage adaptor to test the motor and spindle motor? 5v? 3v what voltage to set to test
I had help with the laser source already for the KSS-210A.
I will carefully go over the KSS-150A as i still need to take this up with the seller, as I think he will have to partially refund me if laser is dead or mech issue, as item was packed well and box untouched.
Thanks Sam
Where is the short? would it be on the mechanism
I havent had a KSS-150A before. If the mech is scrap, I would have to find a whole new mech then, means another player with the mech?
I have a multi voltage adaptor to test the motor and spindle motor? 5v? 3v what voltage to set to test
I had help with the laser source already for the KSS-210A.
I will carefully go over the KSS-150A as i still need to take this up with the seller, as I think he will have to partially refund me if laser is dead or mech issue, as item was packed well and box untouched.
Thanks Sam
Hi Sam,
The short is on the little PCB on the laser head. It shorts out the LD (three leads soldered).
You can buy mechanism assemblies on the net. You used to be able to get the entire thing with head, do a search on that.
Run the motor as slowly as you can make it go. Rotate the motor and listen for a knocking sound. Be patient and rotate the motor around the axis of the shaft. The knocking is best heard a little faster than when the motor stops. You can feel it too.
-Chris
The short is on the little PCB on the laser head. It shorts out the LD (three leads soldered).
You can buy mechanism assemblies on the net. You used to be able to get the entire thing with head, do a search on that.
Run the motor as slowly as you can make it go. Rotate the motor and listen for a knocking sound. Be patient and rotate the motor around the axis of the shaft. The knocking is best heard a little faster than when the motor stops. You can feel it too.
-Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks I think I shall see it once i take out the mechanism.
I will see if i can find a complete assembly after I do the tests to make sure its fine.
Lowest voltage then would be best 3v, next up is 4.5v then 5v etc till it gets to 12v. The mech did sound a bit clunky but i assumed it was the laser? I will do those tests again.
Sam
Thanks I think I shall see it once i take out the mechanism.
I will see if i can find a complete assembly after I do the tests to make sure its fine.
Lowest voltage then would be best 3v, next up is 4.5v then 5v etc till it gets to 12v. The mech did sound a bit clunky but i assumed it was the laser? I will do those tests again.
Sam
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Chris or anyone 🙂
So I desolder the short lead? or all 3 wires
Thanks Sam
Hi Sam,
Short the pads where the diagram shows them on a new head. Don't forget to desolder and remove the short after you plug it back in once you're ready to test the machine. All you will see is two traces and an area where the resist mask has been removed. You may see a tiny bit of flux in that area.
Use the lowest voltage to test the motor with some resistance in series. I do this differently and use a lower voltage with about 100 ohms or so in series. You're going to be a bit higher for a resistance. Try 1 K ohm and 3 VDC to start. I have no idea what combination will work best for you. Use the lowest voltage possible so you don't overheat the resistor you end up using.
-Chris
Short the pads where the diagram shows them on a new head. Don't forget to desolder and remove the short after you plug it back in once you're ready to test the machine. All you will see is two traces and an area where the resist mask has been removed. You may see a tiny bit of flux in that area.
Use the lowest voltage to test the motor with some resistance in series. I do this differently and use a lower voltage with about 100 ohms or so in series. You're going to be a bit higher for a resistance. Try 1 K ohm and 3 VDC to start. I have no idea what combination will work best for you. Use the lowest voltage possible so you don't overheat the resistor you end up using.
-Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks while I waiting for your reply. I took the whole mech out, but did not remove the head. I cleaned the laser again, and removed all grease from ( arrows in picture) from the rail and also the black plastic gliding thing, and replaced it with white grease the black pastic and on the sled a clear silcone high performance grease.
Track 4 no issues yet, but problems did take time, see how it goes, either way seller mustive know the player had issues!!
Motors i kept them connected and the laser head moved along nicely, and I couldnt hear anything like a knock. I never went past 4.5v with the testing.
I have to find this short plug , as i am not sure if fixed yet
Thanks while I waiting for your reply. I took the whole mech out, but did not remove the head. I cleaned the laser again, and removed all grease from ( arrows in picture) from the rail and also the black plastic gliding thing, and replaced it with white grease the black pastic and on the sled a clear silcone high performance grease.
Track 4 no issues yet, but problems did take time, see how it goes, either way seller mustive know the player had issues!!
Motors i kept them connected and the laser head moved along nicely, and I couldnt hear anything like a knock. I never went past 4.5v with the testing.
I have to find this short plug , as i am not sure if fixed yet
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hi Sam,
The shorting pads are on the PCB. With those gears, sometimes the smaller ones on that large gear get torn out. That happens if the sled servo loses control due to CD or setup. It hits the end and with all that power, tears up the teeth. You would notice that in normal play.
The alignment is for specialists to set up. Especially the E-F balance, which is a critical adjustment. The RF pattern also tells you a great deal about the head. There are levels that can be measured, one of which is the expected laser current draw. That increases over time, you're allowed +10%. You absolutely never, under any circumstances, adjust the laser power control pot on the head. If you do, just throw the head out as you might have killed it instantly, or radically shortened it's life.
So do not touch any of the adjustments no matter who tells you that you can. That goes double or more if the person is a "fix-it" guy. A real tech will tell you the same thing.
-Chris
The shorting pads are on the PCB. With those gears, sometimes the smaller ones on that large gear get torn out. That happens if the sled servo loses control due to CD or setup. It hits the end and with all that power, tears up the teeth. You would notice that in normal play.
The alignment is for specialists to set up. Especially the E-F balance, which is a critical adjustment. The RF pattern also tells you a great deal about the head. There are levels that can be measured, one of which is the expected laser current draw. That increases over time, you're allowed +10%. You absolutely never, under any circumstances, adjust the laser power control pot on the head. If you do, just throw the head out as you might have killed it instantly, or radically shortened it's life.
So do not touch any of the adjustments no matter who tells you that you can. That goes double or more if the person is a "fix-it" guy. A real tech will tell you the same thing.
-Chris
Hi Chris,
The sled servo the ending could sometimes tear up the teeth. The end of yesterdays Non CDR was a 16 track album, and track 16 kept ticking over for a bit and there was a sound at the end like a crackle? The second disc a long 23track cdr ended with out that sound. Further testing today
I never touch alignment or those screw adjustments. If it was bought with that knock at the top would the alginment be okay still I think.
Sam
The sled servo the ending could sometimes tear up the teeth. The end of yesterdays Non CDR was a 16 track album, and track 16 kept ticking over for a bit and there was a sound at the end like a crackle? The second disc a long 23track cdr ended with out that sound. Further testing today
I never touch alignment or those screw adjustments. If it was bought with that knock at the top would the alginment be okay still I think.
Sam
Hi Sam,
I've aligned many CD players from even new. The customers almost always hear an improvement in sound quality.
I would inspect the gears very closely after cleaning the grease off. Reassemble with a light lubrication and use it if the gears are fine.
-Chris
I've aligned many CD players from even new. The customers almost always hear an improvement in sound quality.
I would inspect the gears very closely after cleaning the grease off. Reassemble with a light lubrication and use it if the gears are fine.
-Chris
Hi Chris
So i should maybe go over the mech gears again to see if they are okay. I could get a tech guy to align the cd player again as i have the service manual on the way in the mail.
I will further test it today, partically on the end of the tracks.
Sam
So i should maybe go over the mech gears again to see if they are okay. I could get a tech guy to align the cd player again as i have the service manual on the way in the mail.
I will further test it today, partically on the end of the tracks.
Sam
Hi Chris,
Ive been playing CDRs and CDs 3 full albums the CDRs 23track 20 track. Everything seems fine, though still some noise ( not from the speakers ) from the unit as if its still playing or something at the end of the disc, then it stops. Same noise you get when loading a disc. Also if going from track 8 to 14 ( some lagging - 8 seconds approx). The first tracks seem fine, unless that is okay for tracks at the end of the disc
* havent checked mech for munched teeth *? should i check?
Thanks
Sam
Ive been playing CDRs and CDs 3 full albums the CDRs 23track 20 track. Everything seems fine, though still some noise ( not from the speakers ) from the unit as if its still playing or something at the end of the disc, then it stops. Same noise you get when loading a disc. Also if going from track 8 to 14 ( some lagging - 8 seconds approx). The first tracks seem fine, unless that is okay for tracks at the end of the disc
* havent checked mech for munched teeth *? should i check?
Thanks
Sam
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