Hi,
Planning to mod my CD104.
Anyone suggests any mods ? I have replaced the captive leads.
I was thinking of first looking at the capas in the analogue section. My main problem is how you get the analogue board out . I figure you go in from underneath and remove a torx screw holding the board in place. Is there much more dismantling to be done , or is there a special way of removing the card ?
Planning to mod my CD104.
Anyone suggests any mods ? I have replaced the captive leads.
I was thinking of first looking at the capas in the analogue section. My main problem is how you get the analogue board out . I figure you go in from underneath and remove a torx screw holding the board in place. Is there much more dismantling to be done , or is there a special way of removing the card ?
Here is what I did
Thanks to Guido for the CDX manual
I studied the schematics and decided to try a few tweaks. I didn't want to :
1) Risk this ancient machine not working at all
2) Change the sound too much i.e destroy what I liked
3) Buy any new parts - so I raided my parts bin
Basically I :
1) Replaced the DC blocking caps on the decode board (underneath ) with wire links (caps 2573 & 2608). I use a Quad 44 which has DC blocking so these were unneccesary
2) Replaced the opamp decoupling caps with cerafines 25v/100uF (2624 & 2627) - seen in the picture
3) replaced the PSU board caps 2451 - 2456 with Elna RSH (16v /100uF) with the excpetion of 2455 which I used a 16v /100uF OSCON
still a bit hard at the top end but I think that it has greater imagery and depth.
Thanks to Guido for the CDX manual
I studied the schematics and decided to try a few tweaks. I didn't want to :
1) Risk this ancient machine not working at all
2) Change the sound too much i.e destroy what I liked
3) Buy any new parts - so I raided my parts bin
Basically I :
1) Replaced the DC blocking caps on the decode board (underneath ) with wire links (caps 2573 & 2608). I use a Quad 44 which has DC blocking so these were unneccesary
2) Replaced the opamp decoupling caps with cerafines 25v/100uF (2624 & 2627) - seen in the picture
3) replaced the PSU board caps 2451 - 2456 with Elna RSH (16v /100uF) with the excpetion of 2455 which I used a 16v /100uF OSCON
still a bit hard at the top end but I think that it has greater imagery and depth.
Attachments
hi
some nice mods there. I have 2 players (the early gray and the later black model of the 104)
i have successfully got the black ne working and have replaced the audio leads as they were almost hanginf off🙂
I have just one fault in the servo borad of the other player to sort out (the laser skips off the track after a minute of playing or so)
would you be so kind as to let me hve a copy of the service manual/schematic?
I have a .pdf guid to servicing this machine which might be of interest to you
kind regards
Alan
wahee@fs2.com
some nice mods there. I have 2 players (the early gray and the later black model of the 104)
i have successfully got the black ne working and have replaced the audio leads as they were almost hanginf off🙂
I have just one fault in the servo borad of the other player to sort out (the laser skips off the track after a minute of playing or so)
would you be so kind as to let me hve a copy of the service manual/schematic?
I have a .pdf guid to servicing this machine which might be of interest to you
kind regards
Alan
wahee@fs2.com
CD104 = B & O CDX
greetings,
Don't have CD104 schematics but do have B&O CDX which internally is almost the same. Schematics should be in your inbox as you read this.
greetings,
Don't have CD104 schematics but do have B&O CDX which internally is almost the same. Schematics should be in your inbox as you read this.
thanks very much for that. Im sorry though I was a bit of a wally and listed the wrong email address. I have just got a new bulk email address it should have been
wahee@f2s.com
could you resend
sorry
wahee@f2s.com
could you resend
sorry
Now swapped all the remaining caps from the decoder board for oscons. They were all 22uF/35v ( B&O CDX says there 40v) However none see a voltage greater than -18v. There is alsu one 1uF/35v cap too. I swapped in 22uF/20v oscons which fit well and a 1uF/20v. sorry for the poor picture but the oscons are the violet/blue caps
Sound is sweeter I'd say
Remaining tweak might be to add some ferrites to the 3 green inductors you can see in the picture. Need to device a means where they don't short with the groundplane.
Sound is sweeter I'd say
Remaining tweak might be to add some ferrites to the 3 green inductors you can see in the picture. Need to device a means where they don't short with the groundplane.
Attachments
Dear Wahee, Jives11,
I have a CD104 which is not functioning properly.Could you kindly send me a copy of CD104 manual.
many thanks in advance.
chlo.
my email address: chuong_h_l at yahoo.co.uk
I have a CD104 which is not functioning properly.Could you kindly send me a copy of CD104 manual.
many thanks in advance.
chlo.
my email address: chuong_h_l at yahoo.co.uk
chlo said:
Hi Chlo, did you get the CDX manual ?
what is your problem ? Is it the classic one where the player refuses to read the CD TOC until the player has been warmed up for 30 minutes or so ?
Hi,
Many thank for your CDX manual. I am still having a problem with my CD104. The tray does not open!. I could not find the circuit diagram for it on the CDX manual. I think I have to look for CD104 manual.
Once again many thanks for your help.
Chlo.
Many thank for your CDX manual. I am still having a problem with my CD104. The tray does not open!. I could not find the circuit diagram for it on the CDX manual. I think I have to look for CD104 manual.
Once again many thanks for your help.
Chlo.
chlo said:
ahh that would be different as the CDX was a top loader and hand no drawer mechanism.
If you take the top off you can (carefully) manually open the drawer. If you load a CD does it play correctly ?
Is there any motor noise if you press eject ? If so it might be as simple as the rubber belt is broken. Mine is not broken but is a bit loose . It looks very fiddly to replace assuming you can find a substitute
wojtek.l said:
Thanks Wojtek.l,
do you know how the Grundig 7550 differs from a CD 104 ?
My next tweak will be to add some ferrite to the 3 * 47uH chokes on the decoder board . These help to keep noise from the 7010, 7020 chips appearing on the +5v supply
generally cd104 is similar to cd7550 but cd7550 has extra special ground for kill HF intermodulation
I replaced a lot of caps, analog section and added special ground like cd 7550 ... and it isn`t bad indeed. In start it had hagridden sound!
Hi.
Don't forget to resolder ALL the through-board connections from the ground planes (with a wire from top to bottom) !
"" I am still having a problem with my CD104. The tray does not open!. """
These connections cause untold problems including such as above.
Andy
Don't forget to resolder ALL the through-board connections from the ground planes (with a wire from top to bottom) !
"" I am still having a problem with my CD104. The tray does not open!. """
These connections cause untold problems including such as above.
Andy