Long time audio fiend. I know small angles create big changes. I have made car audio sound 2 feet bigger than the car, and the rearview was high, but it could still go higher! Thanks image Dynamics 6.5 coaxs! Set them in rings on flexible metal, then fiberglass in place!
But now ... I am trying to make a quite loud, but not too cumbersome "bluetooth" speaker. I will use it under a LOUD bridge skatepark in Jacksonville FL! It needs to also be listenable as you skate by! I have made many sketches, thought of so many ideas ... I find that the best image is a basic triangliated set of speakers, but then again i have not seen everything ... It would be cool to make this thing MYSTIFYING. I will post some sketches . YES I AM MAD INDEED. Lol. So how do i do this??? I want a stereo image, enough bass, and wide dispersion so you can skate by and still listen! And oh yeah ... Its on batteries... And i have to carry it around! And it has to be loud enough to defeat a highway above!!!
Pleased to meet you all, i literally dream about speakers, and am too broke to buy and experiment!
Halp!
I have recently found out THE TRUTH about low end extension! Just turn up your EQ .... Whatever bumps is REALLY what low end you got ...
But now ... I am trying to make a quite loud, but not too cumbersome "bluetooth" speaker. I will use it under a LOUD bridge skatepark in Jacksonville FL! It needs to also be listenable as you skate by! I have made many sketches, thought of so many ideas ... I find that the best image is a basic triangliated set of speakers, but then again i have not seen everything ... It would be cool to make this thing MYSTIFYING. I will post some sketches . YES I AM MAD INDEED. Lol. So how do i do this??? I want a stereo image, enough bass, and wide dispersion so you can skate by and still listen! And oh yeah ... Its on batteries... And i have to carry it around! And it has to be loud enough to defeat a highway above!!!
Pleased to meet you all, i literally dream about speakers, and am too broke to buy and experiment!
Halp!
I have recently found out THE TRUTH about low end extension! Just turn up your EQ .... Whatever bumps is REALLY what low end you got ...
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What does the (rather meaningless) claim in your title have to do with your question? What is your question?
To be " loud" with low wattage from a battery source.
You want speakers to have high sensitivity.
And you want driver Qts to be low, or a powerful magnet so the enclosure can be smaller.
Most " car" door speakers have horrible high Qts around .6 to even .8
And sensitivity is rather low.
I would find 6.5" or 8" speakers with high sensitivity and low Qts.
Then it would be a large tweeter 1" or larger to crossover to large woofers in 6.5 to 8" range.
Especially 8"
Typical 82 to 85 dB speakers work, but wont compete with traffic noise.
88 to 92 dB or even higher speakers is the ticket to go against urban noise with low watts.
Problem is high sensitivity speakers with average Qts will want a big big box.
So good luck.
You can get more voltage with bucking convertors, good luck with that too.
Battery life quickly dips down to 1 or 2 hours depending on the battery pack.
So big battery, less watts more play time . Dont waste time with " 4 ohm" loads.
You dont " get" more power you " use" more power
You want speakers to have high sensitivity.
And you want driver Qts to be low, or a powerful magnet so the enclosure can be smaller.
Most " car" door speakers have horrible high Qts around .6 to even .8
And sensitivity is rather low.
I would find 6.5" or 8" speakers with high sensitivity and low Qts.
Then it would be a large tweeter 1" or larger to crossover to large woofers in 6.5 to 8" range.
Especially 8"
Typical 82 to 85 dB speakers work, but wont compete with traffic noise.
88 to 92 dB or even higher speakers is the ticket to go against urban noise with low watts.
Problem is high sensitivity speakers with average Qts will want a big big box.
So good luck.
You can get more voltage with bucking convertors, good luck with that too.
Battery life quickly dips down to 1 or 2 hours depending on the battery pack.
So big battery, less watts more play time . Dont waste time with " 4 ohm" loads.
You dont " get" more power you " use" more power
A couple 8s would probably bump pretty well. Its probably the way, but ....
I wonder what would happen if i ran a freeair 10 or 12, and just made a small box for it, but then bottom slot ported it, and played with the slot size until it sounded well enough, then eq it from there. The low fs might produce some low bass from something like that? I am not sure, really would like to experiment with that. Then i add freeair drivers for the highs to the left and right of the 10/12. That would still be a manageable size too.
I would make it from fiberglass and wood, but initially play with the angles and rotations of the drivers to get the proper sound, then fiberglass them in place. I want to make an image coming off of this box, i think it will give good overall dispersion if i can cause the box to image well.
Or a bunch of 4s, and passive radiators? That might dig deep and sound powerful! Id love to experiment with multiple drivers like that. I guess i need to start modeling speakers on the computer and decide for myself .
Or there's the partially driven, low fs "car sub" i heard about on this forum ... You wire it reverse and run a coil so it raises the impedence greatly, and use it as a passive radiator.
Or there's the horns. American bass claims 109db from 1k up to 20k. That thing is about the size of a 6, but it's gonna beam badly ... But hey what if i triangulated 2 of them and made a powerful image?
i have heard line arrays using 3 inch drivers on portable pa systems ... It travels far due to the small driver size, but the high frequency beams badly ... And it sounds like a 3...
So many options. I love to hear anything which comes to mind.
I want to make it go low, but need real power from 400-20k to play the music LOUD. it really is a tough nut to crack. Sensitivity is going to be key, but dispersion is also because you want to hear the music as you skate around under that loud bridge. I would love to enlighten people with great sound ...
Any thoughts are welcome, i love audio stuff !
I wonder what would happen if i ran a freeair 10 or 12, and just made a small box for it, but then bottom slot ported it, and played with the slot size until it sounded well enough, then eq it from there. The low fs might produce some low bass from something like that? I am not sure, really would like to experiment with that. Then i add freeair drivers for the highs to the left and right of the 10/12. That would still be a manageable size too.
I would make it from fiberglass and wood, but initially play with the angles and rotations of the drivers to get the proper sound, then fiberglass them in place. I want to make an image coming off of this box, i think it will give good overall dispersion if i can cause the box to image well.
Or a bunch of 4s, and passive radiators? That might dig deep and sound powerful! Id love to experiment with multiple drivers like that. I guess i need to start modeling speakers on the computer and decide for myself .
Or there's the partially driven, low fs "car sub" i heard about on this forum ... You wire it reverse and run a coil so it raises the impedence greatly, and use it as a passive radiator.
Or there's the horns. American bass claims 109db from 1k up to 20k. That thing is about the size of a 6, but it's gonna beam badly ... But hey what if i triangulated 2 of them and made a powerful image?
i have heard line arrays using 3 inch drivers on portable pa systems ... It travels far due to the small driver size, but the high frequency beams badly ... And it sounds like a 3...
So many options. I love to hear anything which comes to mind.
I want to make it go low, but need real power from 400-20k to play the music LOUD. it really is a tough nut to crack. Sensitivity is going to be key, but dispersion is also because you want to hear the music as you skate around under that loud bridge. I would love to enlighten people with great sound ...
Any thoughts are welcome, i love audio stuff !
Big "image" or soundstage is just a wider stereo field.
Portable boxes are restrained to how far apart the left right is.
2 modules or 2 speakers like any home stereo unit further apart produces a bigger image.
For portable a Bluetooth module which makes left right separates no wires can help.
In the 80's 90's we didnt have blue tooth and didnt care.
The large portable boom boxes often had 2 separate speakers that could be detached
from the main unit. So you could spread them apart farther.
Just wires no big deal, 3 to 5 feet is more than long enough
Small speakers that make bass, 4 or 5" have very poor sensitivity.
Just use 8" and a large tweeter for 2 way. x2 for left right.
Connect together for carry, split apart for big imaging
Portable boxes are restrained to how far apart the left right is.
2 modules or 2 speakers like any home stereo unit further apart produces a bigger image.
For portable a Bluetooth module which makes left right separates no wires can help.
In the 80's 90's we didnt have blue tooth and didnt care.
The large portable boom boxes often had 2 separate speakers that could be detached
from the main unit. So you could spread them apart farther.
Just wires no big deal, 3 to 5 feet is more than long enough
Small speakers that make bass, 4 or 5" have very poor sensitivity.
Just use 8" and a large tweeter for 2 way. x2 for left right.
Connect together for carry, split apart for big imaging